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PostPosted: 10 Nov 2019, 19:50 
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FH: Victas VS > 401
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Carpe Noctem wrote:
Tried to glue an OX D'tecs with waterbaed glue yesterday, worked like a charm!

What method did you use?

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PostPosted: 10 Nov 2019, 22:29 
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Blade: Joola Carbon Pro
FH: LKT Rapid Speed 1.8
BH: Tibhar Grass D'tecs - OX
haggisv wrote:
Carpe Noctem wrote:
Tried to glue an OX D'tecs with waterbaed glue yesterday, worked like a charm!

What method did you use?


Used Pongori Waterbased Glue bought from the Decathlon. Put the glue on the blade and D'tecs OX and waited 15-20 minutes. My friend held two edges and I the other two of the rubber, then placed in on the blade in one smooth movement. (Which is kinda needed with this glue. Do-overs are a pain to get right and it's also a pain to remove the rubber from the blade afterwards. To much residue.)

It's for a comparison of a bunch of pips and blades I got my hands on for free. (Will put my findings on here when I tried them all for some time. Somewhere next year.

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PostPosted: 11 Nov 2019, 21:40 
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Blade: Stiga Defensive Classic
FH: Butterfly T05
BH: Tibhar D.TecS
My experience with OX is that fixing them with WBG* is not that much of a problem but getting them to stick after 20-30h of playing can be problematic (especially if you twiddle a lot). I got super tired of constantly regluing and switched to WBG + Donic glue sheets and haven't looked back.

* I typically buy the cheapest WBG from Donic, Andro, Xiom as I assume that they're all manufactured by ESN as some of them have got the Tensor logo printed on the bottle.


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PostPosted: 12 Nov 2019, 00:56 
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Blade: Hurricane Long 3
FH: DHS Hurricane 8
BH: Tibhar MX-P
I have glued exactly 4 Ox sheets in my life. The first one was a mess. The second one, on the other side of the same bat (being turned into a hardbat setup with SP) went much easier. I simply applied Joola Lex WBG to the bat and the sheet, allowed to dry and then affixed the bottom of the sheet to the bat with a single press, a VERY slight application of tension to the bottom corners ensuring that it went down flat. The rest of the sheet was,at this time, folded back over the handle - glue side up - and I then used a thin roller, in my case an old bicycle seat post, to roll the sheet over and onto the bat. This worked well. I have since fixed 2 LP Ox sheets on different bats using the same method, and they are solid. It takes no more time nor effort than gluing inverted with sponge. Incidentally, I followed a tip by someone on a forum and left a little of the rubber hanging over at the bottom, which was then folded over and glued to the side edge of the blade, which stops it coming loose during play.

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PostPosted: 12 Nov 2019, 15:02 
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One reason I went to glue sheets is that, if you use the proper glue sheet, you can remove and re-stick rubbers to the blade or move rubber around from blade to blade. I don't use them on inverted because they're expensive, but with OX pips they also help make putting the rubber on much more simple. Water based glue works, BUT it doesn't take much to make a mistake. If you've ever touched half-dried water-based glue on a blade with a fingertip, or gotten two parts of a partially dried OX sheet stuck together, you'll know what I mean.. :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 12 Nov 2019, 23:00 
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I have done rubber cement, glue sheets and water based glues. I currently favor glue sheets pretty strongly since both types of glues tend to detach along the edges after a session or two and have to be re-attached too often.


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PostPosted: 13 Nov 2019, 02:05 
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DISGRACEFUL DOOM OVER TEXTILE? .. NO .. NO... NO...

It has came to me why they discontinued the textile underlayer for all the OX pimples-out even despite a praised usability of the textiled sheets. The plain truth is that the textile layer as attached underneath would add an extra thickness to the sheet up to 0.15 mm and, thereby, might cause recurring failure over 2.0 millimeters by thickness. It would be some doomster for players in the event when Referee got a digital thickness gauge at hand.


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PostPosted: 13 Nov 2019, 02:25 
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Blade: Hurricane Long 3
FH: DHS Hurricane 8
BH: Tibhar MX-P
igorponger wrote:
DISGRACEFUL DOOM OVER TEXTILE? .. NO .. NO... NO...

It has came to me why they discontinued the textile underlayer for all the OX pimples-out even despite a praised usability of the textiled sheets. The plain truth is that the textile layer as attached underneath would add an extra thickness to the sheet up to 0.15 mm and, thereby, might cause recurring failure over 2.0 millimeters by thickness. It would be some doomster for players in the event when Referee got a digital thickness gauge at hand.

Pretty much proof that Igor is a bot. No one has mentioned cloth base for pips out rubber in this thread, which is simply about ways in which to fix ox rubber to a blade. The igor-bot is clearly programmed to jump in on any thread that mentions either boosting or long pimples, and introduce some way in which the subject is breaching ITTF rules. I'll grant that it is a fairly sophisticated bot, but it never denies that it is one, and it always replies in skewed ways which are not really related to the thread topic. QED.

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PostPosted: 13 Nov 2019, 02:26 
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Blade: Hurricane Long 3
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Of course, the bot will probably now deny its bot-ness.

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PostPosted: 15 Nov 2019, 13:57 
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igorponger wrote:
DISGRACEFUL DOOM OVER TEXTILE? .. NO .. NO... NO...

It has came to me why they discontinued the textile underlayer for all the OX pimples-out even despite a praised usability of the textiled sheets. The plain truth is that the textile layer as attached underneath would add an extra thickness to the sheet up to 0.15 mm and, thereby, might cause recurring failure over 2.0 millimeters by thickness. It would be some doomster for players in the event when Referee got a digital thickness gauge at hand.


HAH HAH HAH.. Another npn-existent, made-up issue. The only sheets with cloth backing were short pips - British Leyland and some of the Japanese sheets (from Butterfly and Yasaka).

Iskandar


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