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PostPosted: 22 Jul 2020, 20:41 
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Sitting on Defence
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Blade: TSP Trinity Carbon
FH: Tibhar MX-S 2.0mm
BH: Viper 0.5mm
I found curl p1-r to be extremely dead and slow OX. That was a long time ago, however.

I've found these pips to be good for chopping in OX:

- Grass Dtecs
- Dragon Talon
- Viper

Most others I've used with a thin or medium sponge.

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PostPosted: 23 Jul 2020, 01:45 
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Blade: SOULSPIN DEFENSE
FH: Spinny stuff
BH: Spongeless reviled stuff
I've used a lot of the grippy lp in ox. Feint long 3, curl p1r, octopus, etc.

To me, they can do the 'bump' returns close to the table but the resulting ball has very little spin from reversal. So you basically send back dead balls, that can be kept low and placed well. Away from the table and against dead balls, you're able to add a bit more spin. I'd say enough to draw out errors from amateurs - although these cannot be done deceptively in my experience.

To get the spin, you must load up on the shot and really rake the pips across the ball. You might be able to disguise the bump vs brush easier... however the returns will have less variation than sponged versions.

They work if you want more forgiveness closer to the table, with some ability to change the spin yourself. Just depends on how you want to play. Consistent chopper with good placement or aggressive chopper with lots of variation and tricks? Are you looking to fh kill more often? Wait them out? Too slow to move back?

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PostPosted: 27 Jul 2020, 00:06 
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Blade: Avalox P700
FH: RITC 802 1.8
BH: RITC 755 OX
Quote:
I find the Dtechs to be too fast close to the table and chops ofren goes too Long, when facing Hard hitters.


With respect, I suspect this isn't really the fault of the Dtecs, although I do agree it's pretty lively. I also don't think you'll necessarily find OX is any better.. if anything, depending on your blade, it could be worse.

The fact of the matter is controlling a powerful shot, close to the table, is hard. It's going to be hard with Dtecs, Hellfire, Troublemaker, and MagicUnicornPoop. If you want to control a powerful shot, you have two options - retreat to the second or third zone, and chop it, or practice a chopblock/block/half-chop action against a hard hitter.

I spent several hours one afternoon practicing with a highly ranked player, who gave me very powerful shots which I had to try to control. At first my shots sailed way off the end. After a few hours, I was able to keep more than half on the table - a big improvement. What rubber did I change? What blade did i change? None at all.

If you don't have a high level player with the time and patience to do this with you, any random training partner can quickly learn how to feed you multiball. It's good practice for them too, to generate power and spin, and you'll get hundreds and hundreds of attempts to work with.

Alternatively, if you've got $40-50 to spend on a rubber that is frankly going to be fractionally better in some respects and fractionally worse in other respects, and net identical, why not see if you can pay a local coach to do the same. Depending on who you know and where you are I'd bet you could get 1-2 hours of quality practice, and if you focus purely on the problem you're trying to fix, I bet you get a much better return on investment than by changing rubbers.

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PostPosted: 27 Jul 2020, 20:23 
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BH: Spinlord Keiler 1.2mm
D TecS is quite unique for a long pip in that it has a tensor type sponge like a medium or short pip rather than a slow or dampening sponge as is typical with long pips. It currently use D TecS 1.2 mm sponge for an attacking game similar to how I play with medium pips and a few times I have tried other sponge long pips with the odd exception such as meteorite 1.0mm I'm surprised how hard I have to hit the ball just to get over the net.

So as you're used to playing with sponge on your long pips one option would be to go for a rubber such as troublemaker or a cheaper option Spinlord Agenda with 0.5mm or 1.mm sponge so that you are not always struggling with the fast pace of DtecS.


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PostPosted: 28 Jul 2020, 06:44 
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Blade: Joola Carbon Pro
FH: LKT Rapid Speed 1.8
BH: Tibhar Grass D'tecs - OX
LordCope wrote:
Quote:
I find the Dtechs to be too fast close to the table and chops ofren goes too Long, when facing Hard hitters.


With respect, I suspect this isn't really the fault of the Dtecs, although I do agree it's pretty lively. I also don't think you'll necessarily find OX is any better.. if anything, depending on your blade, it could be worse.

The fact of the matter is controlling a powerful shot, close to the table, is hard. It's going to be hard with Dtecs, Hellfire, Troublemaker, and MagicUnicornPoop. If you want to control a powerful shot, you have two options - retreat to the second or third zone, and chop it, or practice a chopblock/block/half-chop action against a hard hitter.

I spent several hours one afternoon practicing with a highly ranked player, who gave me very powerful shots which I had to try to control. At first my shots sailed way off the end. After a few hours, I was able to keep more than half on the table - a big improvement. What rubber did I change? What blade did i change? None at all.


Yeah I went to this proces aswell with ox. Quickly I learned how to play a safe return from the second zone. But the second zone is dangerous for me and brings more time for my opponent so I keep on trying to improve my consistancy for close at the table blocks with D'tecs... it's a slow proces but a really nice skill to have.

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PostPosted: 03 Aug 2020, 02:54 
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Blade: JSK straight
FH: S1
BH: Dragon Talon OX
In regards to hard to block fast hits; that was always a challenge for me, i held my balsa blade with dtecs ox loosely even moved my blade backwards to absorb the force. But now i can chop block and block those fast loops with dr N gangster ox and hellfire ox even on a allround blade. I was truly surprized that it could be done. As an example i play now with jsk with gangster ox and i can block fast hits, this is weird bc jsk is pretty fast but these rubbers made for plastic balls r slow enuf and i can still attack with my usual lp shots. AMAZING!!

I read somewhere i cannot remember the source it was probably on this forum. I had been doing pushblocking for awhe and wanted to learn how to chop like a classic defender, so for past 6 months i experimented with different blades and rubbers mostly tsp curls and different sponges, as a beginner chopper i was learning how to generate spin.

What i read was that (in genreral terms) if u want to max spin on your chops use 0.5 with slow blades and thicker sponges with faster blades. I find this to be true in my experiments esp with p1r and octopus and found this combinations more controllable. As an example i found octopus 1.1 combined best with chen wei xong blade for me, vs 0.5 Or 1.4 sponges since octopus was a bit alower than p1r control was better.


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