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PostPosted: 26 Mar 2010, 16:17 
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Modern Chiseler.
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PipProdigy wrote:
What site did you order it from? I'm only getting German sites when I do a search for it and my ability to understand German is lacking. I'd hate to get my German friend to come over just to translate a blade order for me xD.

I got mine direct from the manufacturer at http://www.re-impact.de.

If you want to order one, you could write an email to [email protected].

Tell them you want to order a Tachi blade. You also need to tell them what handle style you want (straight/flared/anatomic), whether you're right or left-handed, and whether you want a standard, slightly oversized or large (frying pan-sized) blade. Finally you need to tell them you want to pay by PayPal. They'll email you back a PayPal invoice and you should be good to go. I've ordered a lot of blades from them and never had any problems.

I'm not sure that all sizes are available on this model, by the way. They seem to be trending toward standard size blades lately.

One other note. This seems to be a D.Tecs-optimized blade. People say other pips work better on other blades. Also recommended forehand rubbers seem to be in the 1.5 to 1.8 range.

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PostPosted: 26 Mar 2010, 17:19 
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The EJ in me is telling me to order it, while my wallet is saying it has been through enough already. What would you say justifies paying $132 USD for this blade? I have been meaning to throw a red D.Tecs on something since I've been considering changing LP recently. I also love lightweight blades. My Barricade is wonderful to me. However, my local club members said they will stop playing with me if I ever get an offensive blade, since they can't return my loop drives with my Def+ blade xD.

Please convince me if you think it is worth it.

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PostPosted: 26 Mar 2010, 18:58 
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Well, I've only had it for a few hours, but I can already say it's the best blade I've tried for the D.Tecs by a wide margin. It's a combination blade so the forehand and backhand are different speeds. The forehand is much faster than the Barricade I can say definitively, and by the way I love the Barricade and have had good results with it.

Is the Tachi worth it? It will be to me if I can deal with no-spin effectively with the D.Tecs and find a forehand rubber I like. I'll know more after a few weeks of testing and training, but early impressions are promising for sure.

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PostPosted: 26 Mar 2010, 21:40 
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MnnB wrote:
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if I can deal with no-spin effectively with the D.Tecs

I played a bit with a D-tecs last Saturday on a tournament, on a Iolite and a JooSeHyuk. Reversal is spectacular on those blades, too - so much so that chopping maybe a meter away from the table against backspin produced so much topspin the ball landed on my half... Not my kind of LP, but impressive. As for dealing with no-spin, I think you have to "switch off" the pips by moving the blade from left to right or v.v. instead of up/down; this way you can use what little friction there is deep inside the rubber without being bothered by random effects of the pips flipping. A side-sweep punch, taking the ball on the rise, should be effective here, I think; or a sideways-pulled block directly after the bounce. If the ball bounces high and you want to hit it, you could try and increase the grip of the pips by cocking your wrist to the left and bringing it forward on contact, taking the ball on the tip of the blade while whipping with your underarm; aim directly for the point on the table you want the ball to land.

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 00:35 
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mynamenotbob wrote:
Well, I've only had it for a few hours, but I can already say it's the best blade I've tried for the D.Tecs by a wide margin. It's a combination blade so the forehand and backhand are different speeds. The forehand is much faster than the Barricade I can say definitively, and by the way I love the Barricade and have had good results with it.

Is the Tachi worth it? It will be to me if I can deal with no-spin effectively with the D.Tecs and find a forehand rubber I like. I'll know more after a few weeks of testing and training, but early impressions are promising for sure.


I'm thinking of throwing Tenergy 25 maybe in 1.9 sponge, since you said that most people prefer'd shorter sponges with the blade. That has been my favorite blocking rubber while still retaining the speed and spin I need for serves, loops, and kills.

Kees wrote:
MnnB wrote:
Quote:
if I can deal with no-spin effectively with the D.Tecs

I played a bit with a D-tecs last Saturday on a tournament, on a Iolite and a JooSeHyuk. Reversal is spectacular on those blades, too - so much so that chopping maybe a meter away from the table against backspin produced so much topspin the ball landed on my half... Not my kind of LP, but impressive. As for dealing with no-spin, I think you have to "switch off" the pips by moving the blade from left to right or v.v. instead of up/down; this way you can use what little friction there is deep inside the rubber without being bothered by random effects of the pips flipping. A side-sweep punch, taking the ball on the rise, should be effective here, I think; or a sideways-pulled block directly after the bounce. If the ball bounces high and you want to hit it, you could try and increase the grip of the pips by cocking your wrist to the left and bringing it forward on contact, taking the ball on the tip of the blade while whipping with your underarm; aim directly for the point on the table you want the ball to land.


From my experience, that is the best technique for hitting no-spin balls. I love the way you explained it very clearly. It has been the focus of my training for some weeks now...

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 03:27 
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Kees wrote:
MnnB wrote:
Quote:
if I can deal with no-spin effectively with the D.Tecs

I played a bit with a D-tecs last Saturday on a tournament, on a Iolite and a JooSeHyuk. Reversal is spectacular on those blades, too - so much so that chopping maybe a meter away from the table against backspin produced so much topspin the ball landed on my half... Not my kind of LP, but impressive. As for dealing with no-spin, I think you have to "switch off" the pips by moving the blade from left to right or v.v. instead of up/down; this way you can use what little friction there is deep inside the rubber without being bothered by random effects of the pips flipping. A side-sweep punch, taking the ball on the rise, should be effective here, I think; or a sideways-pulled block directly after the bounce. If the ball bounces high and you want to hit it, you could try and increase the grip of the pips by cocking your wrist to the left and bringing it forward on contact, taking the ball on the tip of the blade while whipping with your underarm; aim directly for the point on the table you want the ball to land.

Thanks Kees. The problem for me is that the D.Tecs is particularly weak on these shots as the ball tends to sail long more than other pips. I used the D.Tecs for about a year and this was why I eventually gravitated away from it.

With the Tachi, this seems to be much less of an issue against my robot, but I reserve judgment until I can get some practice matches in.

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 04:35 
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MnnB wrote:
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The problem for me is that the D.Tecs is particularly weak on these shots as the ball tends to sail long more than other pips. I used the D.Tecs for about a year and this was why I eventually gravitated away from it.

D-tecs weakness is its forte, I think. But, in my opinion, this is the case with all specialized pips (or inverted rubbers, or blades, for that matter). D-tecs reverses well because it makes little friction, which means you will be less able to play actively with it, that is, to take the initiative. In contrast, very grippy pips allow you to be very active, but reversal will be very low, so (to name one thing) you'll have to make yourself most of the backspin you want to send to your opponent. The pips in between can be used for everything and will perform well, but not exceptionally so - unless your skill is exceptional. This is why I think most of us are best off using "working-horse" rubbers, the ordinary stuff, nothing special, which allows you to perform every stroke and to work on it and, doing so, to get better and better at the game. Then again, for someone with a singular exceptional skill, a singular specialized LP may be a great advantage... :?:

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 05:02 
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PipProdigy wrote:
What site did you order it from? I'm only getting German sites when I do a search for it and my ability to understand German is lacking. I'd hate to get my German friend to come over just to translate a blade order for me xD.

Drop Mark a note, you can correspond with him in English.
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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 05:07 
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Kees wrote:
This is why I think most of us are best off using "working-horse" rubbers, the ordinary stuff, nothing special, which allows you to perform every stroke and to work on it and, doing so, to get better and better at the game.

I agree with you, although I think the D.Tecs (especially on the Tachi) is something special. Beyond that, the $6 Palio CK531A is as good as or better than any other currently legal OX pip. In fact, PipProdigy should try the Palio on his Barricade before thinking about D.Tecs and Tachi. That's a pretty darn good combo.

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 05:12 
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By the way, Tachi + Tibhar Grass D.Tecs (ox) + Tibhar Super Defense 40 (1.3mm) + Tibhar 9mm cloth edge tape + rubber grip = 107 grams :) :) :)

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 07:44 
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mynamenotbob wrote:
By the way, Tachi + Tibhar Grass D.Tecs (ox) + Tibhar Super Defense 40 (1.3mm) + Tibhar 9mm cloth edge tape + rubber grip = 107 grams :) :) :)


Holy cow, that is rediculous! I want one!

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 08:02 
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mynamenotbob wrote:
Kees wrote:
This is why I think most of us are best off using "working-horse" rubbers, the ordinary stuff, nothing special, which allows you to perform every stroke and to work on it and, doing so, to get better and better at the game.

I agree with you, although I think the D.Tecs (especially on the Tachi) is something special. Beyond that, the $6 Palio CK531A is as good as or better than any other currently legal OX pip. In fact, PipProdigy should try the Palio on his Barricade before thinking about D.Tecs and Tachi. That's a pretty darn good combo.


What is the Palio like? Fast or slow? I'm willing to try anything. I also like having several blades to use during tourneys.

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 08:30 
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Little fast, good spin reversal, great control. Works really good with the Barricade and the price is right ($3.99 + $1.40 shipping on Ebay).

I've tried a lot of slow rubbers with the Barricade (Xiying, 8512, Giant Long), but they just send back a slow, lazy ball to get attacked. Blocks with the Palio and the Bomb Talent are much more disruptive with the Palio having the edge because of better control.

Very honestly, in my opinion the D.Tecs is the only expensive ox pip that is worth the money. The Palio CK531a is at least as good as any other ox pip and better than most.

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 08:47 
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I just ordered 3 sheets of Palio...I hope you are happy xD. I'm wondering if I should just order another Barricade. In your experience, is the D.Tecs suitable on the Barricade?

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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2010, 09:20 
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PipProdigy wrote:
I just ordered 3 sheets of Palio...I hope you are happy xD. I'm wondering if I should just order another Barricade. In your experience, is the D.Tecs suitable on the Barricade?

I didn't like it. In general, until the Tachi, the D.Tecs played the best for me on carbon blades, the best being the Nittaku Shake Defense.

Regarding the Palio and the Barricade, this should be a painless switch. You're already using the blade and you're already used to your forehand rubber. So with the Palio, it won't take long to get used to it as it harmonizes with the Barricade extremely well, IMO. This is a lot easier than switching blades and getting starting with D.Tecs, which most people here will tell you has a long learning curve, different strokes, etc.

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