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PostPosted: 24 May 2019, 04:51 
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I'm getting much better control/more spin from my TM OX after moving to a non-carbon blade. I believe this LP in OX plays better with a softer-faced blade, my current blade being a Cypress-Poplar-Cypress 3-ply from BBC.


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PostPosted: 24 May 2019, 14:09 
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Modern Chiseler.
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nathanso wrote:
I'm getting much better control/more spin from my TM OX after moving to a non-carbon blade. I believe this LP in OX plays better with a softer-faced blade, my current blade being a Cypress-Poplar-Cypress 3-ply from BBC.

I have an old BBC Ultra Blue Streak laying around that I never liked very much. I stuck TM OX on it tonight and gotta say it's really good on that blade. I've tested a number of standard LP blades with TM, and Ultra Blue Streak is by far the best. It takes hard hits really well and the control is spectacular. This combo might be something.

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PostPosted: 24 May 2019, 15:42 
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Blade: BBC 400
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mynamenotbob wrote:
nathanso wrote:
I'm getting much better control/more spin from my TM OX after moving to a non-carbon blade. I believe this LP in OX plays better with a softer-faced blade, my current blade being a Cypress-Poplar-Cypress 3-ply from BBC.

I have an old BBC Ultra Blue Streak laying around that I never liked very much. I stuck TM OX on it tonight and gotta say it's really good on that blade. I've tested a number of standard LP blades with TM, and Ultra Blue Streak is by far the best. It takes hard hits really well and the control is spectacular. This combo might be something.
I was the player that Charlie developed the Ultra Blue Streak for. It was designed to be a two-speed blade where one side was softer/slower for OX LP. A special soft-curing blue glue (hence the name) was used to keep the blade feel soft and control high. The slower side (which as I recall, was the thicker side in relation to the off-center carbon layer) had a softer outer skin than the other side and was an attempt to mimic a sub-0.5mm sponge behind the OX LP without the added weight that comes with a sponge. I used the UBS for a year+ until the siren song of one of Charlie's new blade designs caught my eye and I put them aside, eventually giving away almost all my blades when I moved (don't worry.. I've since amassed a new collection). I don't recall what rubber I was using on FH in those days but I might have already moved to SP.

So, it doesn't surprise me that Troublemaker works great on the BBC UBS! Which side do you have the LP on?


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PostPosted: 24 May 2019, 16:51 
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Modern Chiseler.
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nathanso wrote:
mynamenotbob wrote:
nathanso wrote:
I'm getting much better control/more spin from my TM OX after moving to a non-carbon blade. I believe this LP in OX plays better with a softer-faced blade, my current blade being a Cypress-Poplar-Cypress 3-ply from BBC.

I have an old BBC Ultra Blue Streak laying around that I never liked very much. I stuck TM OX on it tonight and gotta say it's really good on that blade. I've tested a number of standard LP blades with TM, and Ultra Blue Streak is by far the best. It takes hard hits really well and the control is spectacular. This combo might be something.
I was the player that Charlie developed the Ultra Blue Streak for. It was designed to be a two-speed blade where one side was softer/slower for OX LP. A special soft-curing blue glue (hence the name) was used to keep the blade feel soft and control high. The slower side (which as I recall, was the thicker side in relation to the off-center carbon layer) had a softer outer skin than the other side and was an attempt to mimic a sub-0.5mm sponge behind the OX LP without the added weight that comes with a sponge. I used the UBS for a year+ until the siren song of one of Charlie's new blade designs caught my eye and I put them aside, eventually giving away almost all my blades when I moved (don't worry.. I've since amassed a new collection). I don't recall what rubber I was using on FH in those days but I might have already moved to SP.

So, it doesn't surprise me that Troublemaker works great on the BBC UBS! Which side do you have the LP on?

The side without the dot/sideways wood grain. The BBC UBS forehand has good control also. I had Neubauer Leopard on it already, but that wasn't so great with the plastic ball. So I glued on a control inverted rubber and the forehand plays well also. Charlie should start making these again.

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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 01:51 
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I bought a rubber Dr Neubauer Troublemaker, not yet arrived, I live in Brazil and here it takes time.

I have read in the forums that this rubber comes with a sheet of glue.

Would anyone have a video explaining the technique to glue this rubber?


ps.: Sorry my poor english

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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 02:15 
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NewDef wrote:
I bought a rubber Dr Neubauer Troublemaker, not yet arrived, I live in Brazil and here it takes time.

I have read in the forums that this rubber comes with a sheet of glue.

Would anyone have a video explaining the technique to glue this rubber?


ps.: Sorry my poor english


Assuming you are buying the no sponge version(ox).
The instructions which come with the rubber, state that you should put a layer of glue onto the blade as well as onto the sticky sheet, which is attached to the rubber.
I found it easier to put glue onto the blade only and not onto the sticky sheet. This makes it easier to attach the rubber to the blade. However take care!


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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 03:08 
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That's right, it's OX.
And can I reuse that rubber after removing it from the blade?

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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 03:17 
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I have mounted all my TM OX without using any glue. The built-in glue sheet has stronger grip than, say, a Donic glue sheet, but it didn't pull up any splinters from my blades nor did it leave any residue behind. And yes, it can be reapplied to other blades after being removed. It can even be separated from itself if it inadvertently gets stuck to itself.


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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 03:46 
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I mounted it with the glue sheet AND glue, as the included instruction leaflet suggested, and I also had no trouble removing it later in one piece and without damage to the blade to replace it with a new sheet after pips started falling out.

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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 10:25 
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I don't understand why Dr N adds a glue sheet if it requires gluing anyway.

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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 11:04 
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Dusty054 wrote:
I don't understand why Dr N adds a glue sheet if it requires gluing anyway.

I think they recommend putting glue on there, to make it easier to remove. The glue sheet adhesion tends to be so strong, it will rip fibres off your blade.

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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 14:01 
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haggisv wrote:
Dusty054 wrote:
I don't understand why Dr N adds a glue sheet if it requires gluing anyway.

I think they recommend putting glue on there, to make it easier to remove. The glue sheet adhesion tends to be so strong, it will rip fibres off your blade.


I think you're probably right about why they recommend the glue, but I still wonder why they have the glue sheet in the first place if it has to be glued. Might as well just glue a rubber without a glue sheet.

Maybe the glue sheet keeps the rubber stiffer and easier to apply to the blade but the approach of some other manufacturers is to put a sticky sheet on top of the pimples which makes more sense to me.

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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 14:33 
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Yes you are right, the glue sheet makes the sheet stiffer so it's MUCH easier to apply without getting bubbles. It also helps stick in places where there may not be enough or the glue is not strong enough (like the edges).

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PostPosted: 31 May 2019, 14:48 
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Neubauer has always included glue sheets on OX pips.

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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2019, 05:02 
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When I use glue on the Blade and then remove the Troublemaker, will the wood glue stick to the TM glue? Does it generate imperfections that hinders the reuse of TM in another blade?

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