So I finally ordered a second sheet of sp. According to reviews this plays very similar to inverted rubber just like Tango Ultra, Raystorm and 802-40. I will put it on my gergely or clipper. I wonder if is sp suit my off the bounce agressive backhand blocking game.

There appear to be at least two versions of this rubber, one perhaps tension (G) and one not. Any insights on this?
tOD

My first impressions of this rubber are good, it's great for hitting and blocking. The topsheet is very spinny, so it works great for serving. Looping against topspin is not possible though, opening loops against backspin can be done after some adjustments. The speed of this rubber 2.2 is not very fast, definitely slower than fast inverted sheets. From what I've read about Tango Ultra I don't think this rubber is similar to it.

sunflex wrote:
The tricky thing about short pips is that they should not be conceived like inverted. Lately a lot of supposedly inverted-like SP have come to the market which in fact are not much different from classic SP with soft pips and/or soft sponge. The fact that they will (if used in the right manner) sort of loop attracts players with poor loop-countering skills who hope to improve their lack of technique with a rubber - just like players who go for LP's to cover up weaknesses instead of improve defending possibilities. Good SP players can make use of SP's which allow more than usual spin, but mediocre players should steer clear of any pips at all, if not from the game. Looping against topspin with SP is technically and tactically completely unsound; and if you think a 2.2 SP is slower than a 2.2 inverted you aren't hitting the ball the way it should be hit. Generally, looking for SP's which are in any respect like inverted is really a waste of time. The Bomb SP was designed - like Friendship 802-40 or Globe 889-2 or the latest Double Fish short pips - to allow for more variation in the classic short pips game, but not early on in the rally; they allow a player to keep on hitting even when (contrary to good tactics) pushed away from the table, and so to get back to it and into the game. The rubber is also applicable as a backhand rubber for players with a pseudo-defensive backhand (Wang Tao style) who use blocking and counter-driving to set up a forehand attack.

What I don't like about this rubber is the speed, it's super slow against slow shots, you can't put away a slow high ball with a simple backhand punch How can you put away slow balls with sp?

I prefer not be called names like "mister pips expert" or "beardy guy", and if you have seen me around on tournaments, you could have put your questions to me then and there, as it is easier to show a problem than to post it, and to demonstrate something than to explain it. Generally, though, if you want to get answers to your questions, being polite is not a bad policy. But anyhow:
Sunflex wrote:
A clean backhand punch (viz. a stroke without a swing) against a slow ball does not produce much speed since you have only the wrist and part of the underarm to work with. If done with inverted, it is possible to produce topspin with the wrist-flick and this will make the ball land faster and bounce lower, giving at least the impression of speed; if done with SP, however, spin will be minimal. With SP, a slow ball should be hit. Bend your upper body forward, right-hand shoulder mostly towards the incoming ball, so you make room to bring your arm back for the swing; make sure your wrist is closer to your body than your elbow. Then hit out, transferring your weight to your right leg simultaneously in order to put your whole body into the hit; but don't overdo this, keep the forward movement fast and small, so you won't lose your balance.

Then there is something else. The transition from inverted to short pips has been discussed here several times, I think. Some players prefer a gradual one, choosing inverted-like pips, and this is understandable, for if you have spent a lot of time and trouble in learning something it is hard to give it up for something else which might not even work for you; but the problem with it is that it delays getting rid of inverted-oriented reflexes. The transition to SP (even if just for the backhand or forehand) generally also involves using a different blade, as most blades used for inverted are less suitable for pips. Even if you want to keep your inverted for your forehand, if you want to be able to attack with your SP backhand you need a stiffer blade with a harder feel, 7 ply instead of 5 ply; this is necessary to get the maximum speed and control out of an SP rubber. Flexible blades are less suitable. This will mean a different feel for the inverted forehand too, which complicates things even more if a player likes to keep at least part of his all-inverted technique. Making a clean break, concentrating fully on the new technical and tactical issues, is probably better. On the other hand, staying all-inverted frequently makes good sense too, as many problems with inverted concerning blocking and punching can be solved by changing to thinner sponge, harder sponge, less tacky top-sheet, etc.

I use the Bomb Hammer and a Stiga Boost TP max on a Clipper WRB which is solid enough I suppose.