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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2020, 03:16 
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Location: western NC
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Blade: Gambler Oversize Kevlar
FH: RITC 802 OX
BH: RITC 802 OX
I have been playing tt for a long time. I got interested in tt in high school in the mid 1960's. We played with hardbats because we didn't know there was anything else. In college I got serious: I bought a Butterfly Kenny style with Allround D13 and played tt more than I studied. For the next 20 years I looped and flat hit on the forehand and blocked with short pips on the backhand, playing at a 1900-1950 USA level. After a 15-year layoff, I started playing with hardbat again and played full-time hardbat (mostly against sponge) at a level of 1750-1850. I play a close-to-the-table attacking style. Just before covid 19 shut down clubs and tournaments here, I decided to make the switch to short pips with sponge. With no tt play except vs a robot, I have read everything I can find on attacking short pips play and equipment. Thank you Kees! I have read your articles numerous times. To get to the heart of the matter, here is the question that I hope will start an interesting discussion: What do you all think of using an ALL+ to OFF- five-ply blade for a close-to-the-table two-winged short pips attacking style? To give just one specific example: the Avalox P500 with 2.0 mm 802-40 BH and 2.2 mm 802-40 FH.
I have concluded that the most common advice for this style of short pips play is a stiff 7-ply blade, with the Stiga Clipper and the Avalox P700 being mentioned the most. I understand that these blades are appreciated for their outright speed, relatively short dwell time, and their relative ability to control incoming topspin. I also have concluded that one of the challenges with this kind of setup (and pips play in general) is that the straight trajectory of a hit or drive from a stiff blade has a small margin of error: that is, there is relatively little topspin to arc the ball down onto the table. So I have been mulling over the concept of a setup that provides more spin, and thus more arc and margin for error, while retaining at least most of the control of short pips. I am not suggesting this as a viable setup for world-class play, but perhaps at the 1800-2000 (USA) level. Does anyone have experience with this kind of setup? I would like to hear everyone's ideas, whether theoretical or based on experience. Shall I be the guinea pig?


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2020, 06:15 
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Blade: BBC 400
FH: Victax VO > 102
BH: GD Attack Long
I play SP FH and find that flexible blades are even harder to use than stiff blades because not only do I need to be mindful of proper blade angle, I also need to be mindful of managing flex, which means managing how high on the racket I contact the ball. I play at about your same level, and that skill is currently beyond my ability. I'm happy when, after playing with a new ball, that most of the white stuff is in the center of my rubber as opposed to randomly scattered on the sheet.

To improve your game and spin, I'd recommend a higher grade SP like something from JOOLA, Victas, or Butterfly (search for my SP-related posts for more on this). Look for one that was released recently and designed for the plastic ball. And be mindful of vertical vs horizontal pip orientation.. not the same by any means.


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2020, 06:45 
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I switched to sp bh two years ago. The flexy blades i used to loop with were so difficult with pips. The flex made it like hitting with long pips to be honest.

I went to P700 and it was better, but I wasn't happy with my inverted fh and the 7-ply. So I figured Mima is pretty good, and bought her setup. Acoustic carbon outside lg handle. I'm very happy with them, I eventually bought three. I did switch to a harder slower fh inverted.

Since you are 2xpips, the P700 might be perfect for you.

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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2020, 12:56 
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Blade: xiom hinoki s7
FH: dms firestorm
Im a shortpip traditional penhold, i did played with those 7ply clipper structure, they are good on sp rubber but the best balance 7ply i have played is the palio way 005, its a clipper structure but with walnut-walnut-3ayous ply, it is cheap and not popular brand but this one suits my game, i also tried similar structure like donic ovtcharov senso v1 and others, i like more the palio only $20 at aliexpress

Sent from my Redmi 6A using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2020, 22:42 
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Blade: Gambler Oversize Kevlar
FH: RITC 802 OX
BH: RITC 802 OX
Thank you for the replies and suggestions. Right now I am leaning towards a 90 gram Avalox P700 with straight handle and RITC 802-40 in 2.0 and 2.2. If I don't get any replies that steer me away from that setup, I will get it on order in the next day or so. I'll start building up my forearm muscles!


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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2020, 19:02 
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Hi,

I play TSP Reflex-Award OFF 50 with medium pips on BH and inverted on FH but played it two winged pips out as well (short pips on FH).
I play an agressive near the table style.
The blade is stiff and hard enough for pips out but with many gears and a lot of control.
Former australian olympic player Miao Miao (videos on youtube) and as I heard spanish nationalteam player Jesus Cantero (pips out penholder) played it as well.
And as a bonus it comes cheap.

Greetings Claus


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PostPosted: 19 Feb 2021, 11:58 
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Blade: Gambler Oversize Kevlar
FH: RITC 802 OX
BH: RITC 802 OX
Here is a note to keep everyone updated on my search and preliminary results:For almost a year now I have been playing (robot only) with a Sanwei M8 with RITC 802 with 1.5 mm sponge. This proved to be a wonderful setup for perfecting SP drives on both wings. I also put together an Avalox P700 with RITC 802 with 2.0 BH sponge and 2.2 FH sponge. This combo has potential, but I have set it aside for future evaluation and use. Initially I feel that it is too heavy and has too much sponge for my current SP game. I just put together a Stiga Allround Classic with RITC 802 topsheets and 61 Second 1.5mm sponge on FH and BH. So far I really love this combination. It is definitely a notch slower than the Sanwei M8, but it also produces more spin than the Sanwei setup. For me, the increased arc on forehand drives makes driving more consistent. I will be playing some actual tournament matches in March (the first in 13 months!), so we will see how much I miss the speed then.


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