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PostPosted: 21 Oct 2009, 07:26 
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Would play him similar to a chopper -- move him in and out to get him tired. Merely hitting hard usually give him a rhythm to play to, plus it helps him because the ball trajectory goes out of the table. If timing allows, an earlier ball to exploit angles (because he is usually far away from the table) would be better.

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Last edited by Yuzuki on 21 Oct 2009, 11:26, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 21 Oct 2009, 11:07 
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Heh, wish this thread had started last week, before I lost to one twice in a tournament. :lol:

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PostPosted: 21 Oct 2009, 11:19 
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That's the type of game I play, and this week I played against a player with RITC 804 ANITSPIN on both sides and his speed manipulation was unbelievable, I'd be back from the table returning his smashes then he'd just take all the pace off the ball and drop it short and he'd make it bounce twice on the table and I was unable to reach in time.

So maybe just try changing speed, especially seeing you've got anti on your BH

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PostPosted: 22 Oct 2009, 10:50 
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That's one of my biggest issues when playing those types of players I think. I go for angles and corners too much, not giving myself enough margin for error. I've got to remember to go to the center more.

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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2009, 20:48 
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You need tactics against these players, not brute power.
Mix things up, flat shot, heave topspin shot, than when he is a bit to far back give him a drop shot.
If the ball is to good for a drop shot go for the angles.

I practice a lot against a guy who gets a lot back, but he is hopeless if I use those tactics.
Good luck :D

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PostPosted: 09 Dec 2009, 02:38 
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I get to play one of these guys about once a month. He's about 400 US rating points higher than me, and has much better stroke technique and fundamentals than I do (he's really an allaround player who has focused his game on fishing/retrieving and occasionally chopping and loopkilling). However, I observed that players with weaker strokes and better tactics were able to beat him regularly.

Borrowing a page from their playbooks, I managed to beat him recently by "drawing him in" and "refusing to allow him to play his game". If I had let him dictate point (where he creates an opening for me to attack, and then retreats to fish/retrieve) he would certainly outlast my consistency, and eventually my loops or smashes would miss.

I agree with the earlier poster who said move him front to back; retriever/fisher players generally have good side to side movement, so if they are able to start fishing, it's important to pull them close (with drop shots, and loops that land short).

When I beat him, instead letting him fish, I kept drawing him close to the table. And while his short game is better than mine (he can safely push all of my serves, regardless of top/side/nospin/underspin) and he is very consistent, he generally won't take the offensive from that position. So once I have him close to the table, I loop off the bounce or flat smash his weak pushes.

On my part, it required that I attacked any weak service, utilized my own short serves to keep him close and kept him hovering over the table (only then could I successfully attack deep). I had to be patient enough to wait for an opening, and then end the point without allowing him to get to a defensive range.


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PostPosted: 09 Dec 2009, 20:17 
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I do play such an opponent at our club. And the pesky little bugger plays this style only against me, or a few others that attack a lot. Against others he plays a more attacking game of his own. So I just attack harder and harder against him, I also move back a bit from the table and hit from mid-distance and our games are very close indeed. It is my normal style to suddenly throw a drop-shot in when I am hitting from distance and I do the same against him. It is also my natural inclination to take the ball of the bounce and just angle my bat fir placement, I find that works best against players that move away from the table to counter my hits.

That's how I pretty much would play this guy you mentioned speedy.

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