OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Very good video for showing how well the anti blocks . However,once you meet an opponent that feeds you with zero spin,the anti player has few resources and the anti spin rubber is inefficient no matter how frictionless it is.LPs,on the other hand ,can chop,push,hit,sideswipe the zero spin ball and are therefore more resourceful .

This is all true, but the low trajectory, the short blocks, loaded with back spin... That you will never get with lp, no matter how long they have stayed in the sun.

It is two very different rubbers and two very different styles. A year ago a gave long pimple a serious try, but the differences compared to frictionless anti is larger than one would think. You can't just change to lp, learn how to chop block, and think you can play the same. Serves, attacks, pushes and lots of other strokes need to change. So it is kind of pointless to make comparisons between frictionless anti and long pimple, in the same way as compare long pimple to short pimple.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
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I've been playing with anti for a few months and have to say it really suits my game, coming from an offensive mentality. I really wanted to give long pimples a try myself too, but never got to it eventually and I think it was for a good reason. I'm so used to it I can't imagine myself with a pimple. Some people love to regard that pimples give you more versatility and possibility to vary the spin more, this might be true, but as state above, you don't get particular things that might be more inconvenient than the things the pimples can do. Also, it is a matter of technique.

Anyway, how durable is the SuperGlanti?

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Blade: Stiga Cybershape Wood (flared handle)
Forehand Rubber: Yasaka Rakza Z (2.0 mm, black)
Backhand Rubber: Yasaka Rakza Z (2.0 mm, red)

The Power Of The Hybrids' Setup since November 24, 2023!

I can confirm this. Long ago, when I was younger., I had learned to play quite well against classic defensive players who played away from the table. I'm referring to players who used classic anti-spin rubbers or long-pips rubbers with sponge, like P1 for example.

When I resumed playing in 2015, I didn't face significant problems against classic defensive players (I'm not talking about high-ranking players, but rather average-ranked players). The balls were slow and had a lot of airtime, giving me ample time to position myself and counter with strong topspin forehand against their underspin.
However, when I played against a modern defensive player for the first time, who pushed fast and placed many semi-empty and empty balls on the table with long-pips without sponge, I couldn't keep up and react quickly. By the way, this player could hardly launch an attack with his forehand . I lost the match very quickly and easily. A large number of fast semi-empty and empty balls. on the table, in my opinion (as a 57-year-old classic offensive player), simply created chaos for me . It often seemed paradoxical; I would win 3-0 against a classic defensive player, that defensive player would win 3-0 against a modern long-pips push-blocker, and I would lose 3-0 to the same long-pips push-blocker.

It was even more chaotic for me when I first played against a skilled player who effectively utilized a frictionless anti on their backhand side. I was defeated primarily by their backhand shots alone. He didn't use his strong forehand at all.

Absolutely, mastering the playstyle with such rubbers is indeed an art in itself. Learning to effectively use these "tricky and challenging" rubbers, especially on the backhand side, requires dedication and practice. If such a "tricky and challenging" backhand playstyle is complemented by a strong forehand, then it becomes an exceptional combination. I've also tried LP rubber for a while, but I wasn't persistent and ended up returning to smooth rubber on the backhand. Let's see how it goes with the ABS Evo2 1.8 that I've ordered based on recommendations here. I've now decided to be persistent in learning this style of play. I hope that with such a playing style, I'll be able to reduce the fast pace that no longer suits me. Hopefully

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1979-1991 Butterfly Gergely Gen 1&2, Butterfly Gergely Carbon, Sriver L

p..a..u..s..e 24 years

2015...

2023
Blade Matador
FH Tibhar MXP Max
BH ABS 2 Evo

Hi all, i posted a video where i'm training on sideswap with cybershape carbon and super glanti soft. I think this combo is pretty good

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Antispin player !

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Great!!

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Dr. Neubauer Matador Texa Carbon Gewo Proton Neo 450 Dr. Neubauer Desperado Reloaded OX
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYJI2YuNBL0

Doesn't seem too disruptive, but from this viewpoint it is hard to tell. Interesting combo nevertheless. I asked Gep and he told me it is. Any other opinions?

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Blade: Stiga Cybershape Wood (flared handle)
Forehand Rubber: Yasaka Rakza Z (2.0 mm, black)
Backhand Rubber: Yasaka Rakza Z (2.0 mm, red)

The Power Of The Hybrids' Setup since November 24, 2023!

Playing with frictionless there are times when you are forced back from the table.

Just for my understanding, in these emergency situations which version and sponge would best suit a very hard chop giving some semblence of backspin? A quick twiddle not being possible or you become “stuck” on the wrong side.

In my mind, Super Glanti Soft with max thickness (1.6)?

Would appreciate any discussion.

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ZFT

You are very dependant of the incoming rotation, but with a thick and slow sponge, you can go all in without worrying to overshoot the table. From all the Super Glanti, Störkraft and other glantis I tested in various sponge thickness I'd say most of my chops far away from the table were controlled, a bit more with thicker sponges and I never noticed any drastic backspin change when moving from a thin to a thick sponge.

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Setup 1
Blade - Nblades 1 ply Hinoki
FH - Victas Vo>102
BH - Barna Super Glanti

Setup 2
Blade - Siam Diamond allwood
FH - Bomb Hammer
BH - Barna Super Glanti