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Barna Original Super Glanti
https://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=36665		 Page 5 of 15
Author:  KindButcher [ 15 May 2021, 22:56 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
Iron pips,

While we are on Barricade DEF in this thread, let me get one question out of my mind, I always wanted to ask.
And that is how would that slow and soft blade work with 1.5mm CURL.

Since you told Barriacade DEF is no good for the frictionless antis we are talking about, you may have a few cents to share on this king of all LPs which I heard difficult to control at that thickness.
Author:  Def-attack [ 16 May 2021, 07:44 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
KindButcher wrote:
Iron pips,

While we are on Barricade DEF in this thread, let me get one question out of my mind, I always wanted to ask.
And that is how would that slow and soft blade work with 1.5mm CURL.

Since you told Barriacade DEF is no good for the frictionless antis we are talking about, you may have a few cents to share on this king of all LPs which I heard difficult to control at that thickness.
It should work fine I guess. I have a friend who uses that blade with Spinlord Blitzschlag ox and that is great (he also tried it with my anti, no good). But I have not used that blade much myself, besides testing his setup with lp ox.
Author:  dwruck [ 17 May 2021, 22:37 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
I would not recommend using the soft and slow blade. If you do, I think you will be highly disappointed. Over the past 6-8 months I've tested out a number of anti spin and blade combinations, and I've found (in general) that what KindButcher said is pretty accurate.

When I tried out the anti spin rubbers on a Donic Defplay Senso V3, it was terrible. So I went to the Dr Neubauer Matador blade and it was very good. Then I went to the DMS Deluxe Carbon, and I could definitely tell a difference in terms of spin reversal. Yes, it is faster. That being said, with practice, even with that blade and the thin 0.8 mm sponge Storkraft, it is a very effective combination. It is true that against a very hard shot, the ball generally goes longer. However, I do not mind that, because the amount of spin coming back at the looper will be extremely difficult for them to deal with. And against medium speed and slow speed top spin balls, I can still drop them short, and can still drop just about any serve that I receive short if I want.

The thing I stress with these rubbers is that they take practice. To really understand what is possible and what the correct touch and blade angles are, you need to have many, many sessions. After moving into my new house with a dedicated table tennis space last October, I've been having regular coaching and training sessions for the past 6 months or so, and I am feeling quite good about my ability to control this combination.
Author:  KindButcher [ 06 Jul 2021, 23:33 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
Hi I got the doctor n's barricade blade and just received a new sheet of TSP curl 1.5 mm

my question is should I use a glue or those double sided adhesive sheets (tibhar)

what are the pros and cons of either approach?

Do you also recommend varnishing?
Author:  Def-attack [ 06 Jul 2021, 23:44 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
It is usually a good idea to seal the blade, since it makes the blade less fragile and it is easier when changing rubbers. If you use a glue sheet it is more important to seal the blade since they tend to stuck harder on the blade than regular water based glue (bigger risk for wrecking the blade when removing the rubber).

I have never used a gluesheet for such a rubber, only for frictionless anti with very fragile sponge and top sheet. I guess glueing ox long pimple may be easier with glue sheet, but otherwise it would be as easy to use water based glue. I am not sure if you would feel any difference between using glue or gluesheet.
Author:  KindButcher [ 07 Jul 2021, 01:21 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
Totally makes sense.

Blades are expensive elements and if the sealing ( also known as blade-lacquering) makes a difference in protecting the blade & the rubbers themselves (when changing the sheets), by all means, we should all go for it.

Of course, among us there could be very high-end players who can sense and be affected by that thin layer between the rubber and the blade, then the story for them could be a little different, but for the rest of us, I think sealing is a must.

"Der Materialspezialist" always ships their frictionless antis with the double-adhesive sheets, I will ask Guido to see if they also use sealant.

So as a summary, when we use a rubber with no sponge ( OX stuff that is ) or when we use those very fragile antis with sponges ( like the reflection, the scandal, etc.. ), we should always use a double adhesive sheet. In such cases, there is no need for glue as the double-adhesive sheets serve the purpose.

And...

when we use a regular sponge rubber ( such as TSP curl 1.5 p1-r, or even Tenergy ), we should always use the sealing method first before we apply the glue.

HOWEVER...

One thing I'm still not sure whether it is totally OK to bypass the glue business across the board or not and always and always use double adhesives?

I wonder if it is OK to use sealant first and then double-adhesive sheets for all cases ( that is regardless of the rubber type or blade whether it is with a sponge, without sponge, frictionless anti or LP, and whatnot ) How about that? Would we be better overall if we were to never use glue as it has the potential to cause issues when removing certain rubbers from time to time? Anybody would like to comment on this?
Author:  Def-attack [ 07 Jul 2021, 06:44 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
There is no situation where you must use glue sheet but it can help. I don't always use it with anti.
Author:  dwruck [ 07 Jul 2021, 21:27 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
I could be wrong, but it's my understanding that the glue sheet is important to use with the anti because of the fragile nature of the sponge.
Author:  Def-attack [ 07 Jul 2021, 22:19 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
dwruck wrote:
I could be wrong, but it's my understanding that the glue sheet is important to use with the anti because of the fragile nature of the sponge.
I use waterbased glue and sometimes glue sheet. If you will move the anti to another blade, glue sheet is good. But it can make the anti a little faster on some blades and some thicknesses. A thick layer of the old version of glue (like speed glue but not with as much speed) may make the anti slower.
Author:  dwruck [ 08 Jul 2021, 23:22 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
Glue sheet or no glue sheet, I find it just about impossible to move the rubber to a different blade. Before putting glue directly against the sponge, I'd recommend checking on manufacturer recommendations. As I noted before, I could swear I read somewhere that the special sponges that are used could be adversely affected by glue. If that's not the case, I don't see the reason for using a glue sheet with a sponged rubber. This might especially be the case with the thinner DerMaterialspezialist rubbers.
I think they even tell you to put glue on the glue sheet, which makes no sense to me. The glue sheet is already tacky.
Author:  KindButcher [ 11 Jul 2021, 05:41 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
Guido ( der-materialspezialist manufacturer) wrote to me this:
Quote:
blade sealing makes sense and is recommended also by us.

OX pimples I only glue with glue sheet also all our frictionless ANTIS as our sponges are very sensitive and do not like pure glue.

All other rubbers I glue with normal glue because the adhesive strength of glue sheets is weaker than with liquid glue.


The bottom line is...

if it is OX or those special antis with fragile sponges, the only choice you should have is to go by the manufacturer's recommendation ( which says use the provided glue sheet or get a good one for yourself and stay away from glue).

But if it is a normal rubber, it is better to use glue, that is, due to the stronger bond.
However, if you do not seem to care that 100% bond, but you care more about the convenience, ( and be happy with say 80%-90% boud ) then continue to use glue sheets.

Whether you did the right thing or not will be clear to you after a few top spins.

One more thing... seal the blade at all times.
Author:  dwruck [ 12 Jul 2021, 22:40 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
Thanks KindButcher, I knew I'd read that somewhere about the sponges! Good to know I'm not crazy. Well, at least not in this instance. ;)
Author:  Def-attack [ 14 Jul 2021, 21:50 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
We made a video, more to come:
Author:  KindButcher [ 14 Jul 2021, 22:09 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
What's Marcus's blade and his glanti's sponge mm? ( He used to have 1.6 on PALIO TCT, still the same? )
Author:  Def-attack [ 14 Jul 2021, 22:13 ]
Post subject:  Re: Barna Original Super Glanti
Look at the end of the film
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