OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Great review, it was interesting to read you impressions!

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"Don't let a win get to your head or a loss to your heart"
USATT Rating: 1730
Blade: Stiga Cybershape Carbon
FH Rubber: Butterfly Tenergy 19 2.1
BH Rubber: Sauer & Troger Hellfire X OX

I was able to play with a strong drive looper, Rating Central ~1800 using ALC + T05H. Played about 10-12 sets over 1.5 hours in humid heavy conditions.

Chopping motion is the same as what I use for NBA 1.8, very consistent, low trajectory, great control. A little backspin can be added on top of the reversal, so he couldn’t drive everything back. Make sure your footwork is good and don’t let the slower shorter landing loops drop too low to the ground as no amount of power on chop can get it back over the net. What you are left with is a harmless upward flat hit float that is an invitation to fetching the now-crushed ball from the other side of the stadium haha

It was rare to get any at the table blocks in, I ended up losing confidence/giving up this shot after 3-4 sets and going long defense as it was more comfortable and safe. Will need to specifically train close to table blocking once I sort out the overall feeling for a tighter short game/return of serve placement. Confirmed it is a slower and softer overall feeling vs ABS2 Soft.

Changed to GA8 50 Max for inverted side for less spin sensitivity. Bat now weighs 176-177g on the scale.

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ZFT

For me only two types of blocks work fine with the Trick Anti: chop-blocks work well - the reversal is ok, but the control is great, active block (like an SP block). If I try to block passively - that's an error in most cases. Even a slow spinny loop is not easy to block passively. You need somehow to soften it up.. Or just go for the chop-block(easier) or active block(harder).
Returning serves is interesting too. What works for me, for example, is returning almost like with a regular rubber but taking the pace off. I mean when you want for the ball to stay short you touch it with almost backward motion, more like taking the pace and spin off with the regular rubber. But I can say that my Anti play is pretty not-anti friendly.. Somehow I still use regular rubber motions to play with the Anti

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My ooak blog.

You are correct.

A chop block like how Niwa does it / or like Kenta Matsudaira’s reverse tomahawk serve motion works.

For me, technique-wise for BH (YMMV I’m right handed): sideways chop as parallel to the table starting from middle stomach and ending around in front of left hip area seemed to give most control. Elbow down and try to lean chest slightly forward as much as possible. Hit slightly to the left of the ball, elbow slightly higher and forward upon impact for down the line chop block. For cross court elbow can stay pointed downwards. Forearm small move forward to ensure good ball to racket impact and then finish off to the side so ball doesn’t float long. Catching top of the net is a good mistake!

For slower high arching loops - with a more closed bat angle, I started chest height and chop blocked slightly down to my left side with the same motion resulting in a very short and slow block.

For harder or more spinny loops - I could feel myself leaning back to adjust/absorb the shot more. Quality isn’t as high though it still landed back.

This was all training against a Rating Central 1200-1300 intermediate level. I’d never seen him so tired after a solid 45 mins! FH loop to BH | BH loop to BH | FH & BH loop alternate.

I just have to wire my brain to know when to use an up to down/forward prod push Luka style for emptier balls (like the first topspin serve during hit up) and the reverse tomahawk chop block motion when blocking loops.

Sorry if this is too detailed I’m thinking it may help someone down the line

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ZFT

Ha, a fellow Bulgarian! And with an Anti I've been playing with SuperAnti for almost 30 years, and to this day have not altered my form to more anti-like movements. So I say nothing wrong with that To me the effectiveness of the anti is not so much anymore in spin reversal, not after the change to the 40mm ball and from celluloid to plastic. It's more in the timing of the bounce of the ball. When I backhand "topspin" a 3rd ball with the anti, the ball flies slower than the opponent thinks, and often curves after the bounce as the sidespin from my serve remains. A punch with the anti against a slower ball is also effective as it gives a knuckle ball that feels like underspin to the opponent unless they know to lift it a bit. I usually block with slightly upward movement as opposed to chop block, which I think gives more reversal.
That being said, SuperAnti is not a frictionless anti. I tried frictionless anti's too but in the end chose the better control of the classic SuperAnti.
I did get a Trick Anti too, and it indeed feels to have better control over the DMS glantis I tried, and seems is more durable too. I may try it again when I restart playing more regularly as I didn't play matches with it to verify the reversal, and it's attacking properties, etc.
Айде!

I now use Trick Anti in 1.5mm as it gives more control vs max version and better feeling for long defense chopping with OFF/OFF+ blades. Attacking players or those using DEF/ALL- blades should be choosing the max version for more toxic blocks and more hitting speed against backspin or no spin balls.

I have a suspicion the topsheet is based very closely on Yasaka Anti Power formulation - it would make sense to save money this way. And as with YAP, black seems to be slower and slightly more grippier vs red.

The dampening effect of the sponge makes Trick Anti seem to have less spin producing capability compared to YAP, though the transition period between each would be short. Trick Anti is just so much slower.

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ZFT