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PostPosted: 06 Oct 2018, 10:27 
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Blade: dr neubauer firewall +
FH: DHS skyline 3 neo 2.15 mm
BH: Dr. Neubauer Agressor 1.5
The phenomenon blade is not a combi. I remember a forum where neubauer was mentionning that tney were not a bh side and fh side. I agree of everything you said.


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PostPosted: 21 Jun 2022, 17:15 
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How would Stiga Defensive Pro work with a 1.5mm Medium Pip such as Friendship 563-1 or Yinhe Pluto ?

Currently, I have 563-1 (1.5mm) on a thin balsa core blade.. The ball seems to fly off the table quite often, when I punch/jab against loops/top-spins... Same with passive blocking, as well as flicking against backpsin .. I've been playing with this setup for around 2-3 months.. coming from LP ..


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PostPosted: 22 Jun 2022, 08:01 
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Blade: Stiga Clipper Wood ST
FH: Palio AK47 RED (red)
BH: Dr. Neubauer K.O. Pro 1.8
When you switch from LPs, you have to radically change your technique to tame much faster pips. In my experience a slow blade is not necessary better to reprogram reflexes.

In my own experience I had more problems to block power shots with Dornenglanz ox rather then KO Pro with sponge. Blocks and long aggressive pushes just settle to the endline perfectly most of the time somehow after a few hours of adaptation with any blade and sponge thickness of my Dr. Neubauer KO Pro. But I had very hard times for 6 month and even longer to return my previous LPs consistency. Faster speed is not critical change but longer ball contact time is. I think defensive blade can worsen longer dwell time technique shift problem.

With my experience it is easier to begin with thinner sponge under medium pips rather then slow blade. Even 0.2 mm sponge thickness difference is noticeable in playing. Passive shots are somewhat easier with thinner, flicks and pushes against backspin are much better with thicker. But just coming from LPs ox the thinnest the much easiest to control.


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PostPosted: 22 Jun 2022, 14:08 
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Omut wrote:
When you switch from LPs, you have to radically change your technique to tame much faster pips. In my experience a slow blade is not necessary better to reprogram reflexes.

In my own experience I had more problems to block power shots with Dornenglanz ox rather then KO Pro with sponge. Blocks and long aggressive pushes just settle to the endline perfectly most of the time somehow after a few hours of adaptation with any blade and sponge thickness of my Dr. Neubauer KO Pro. But I had very hard times for 6 month and even longer to return my previous LPs consistency. Faster speed is not critical change but longer ball contact time is. I think defensive blade can worsen longer dwell time technique shift problem.

With my experience it is easier to begin with thinner sponge under medium pips rather then slow blade. Even 0.2 mm sponge thickness difference is noticeable in playing. Passive shots are somewhat easier with thinner, flicks and pushes against backspin are much better with thicker. But just coming from LPs ox the thinnest the much easiest to control.


Thanks Omut ...
Stiga Defensive Pro is a fairly hard & stiff 5+2 layer blade.. So, I thought it'd could work for MP ..

What low-cost, light-weight blade would you recommend for someone who just recently made/making a foray into Medium Pips


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PostPosted: 23 Jun 2022, 10:10 
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Blade: Stiga Clipper Wood ST
FH: Palio AK47 RED (red)
BH: Dr. Neubauer K.O. Pro 1.8
Equipment choice depends on playing style and previous experience. I personally do not like lightweight blades.

Some kind of rubbers highly depend on the used blade. I think medium pimples (or just me playing with them) are not very sensitive to the blade choice.

A good budget blade is Sanwei Fextra 7 (discontinued but should be still widely available). It is a close clone of Stiga Clipper Wood. Original Clipper is also not very expensive.

I generally do not buy blades with "defense" in their name. Most of the time they are classical choppers blades.


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PostPosted: 23 Jun 2022, 13:55 
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Omut wrote:
Equipment choice depends on playing style and previous experience. I personally do not like lightweight blades.

Some kind of rubbers highly depend on the used blade. I think medium pimples (or just me playing with them) are not very sensitive to the blade choice.

A good budget blade is Sanwei Fextra 7 (discontinued but should be still widely available). It is a close clone of Stiga Clipper Wood. Original Clipper is also not very expensive.

I generally do not buy blades with "defense" in their name. Most of the time they are classical choppers blades.



Good blades, both


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PostPosted: 07 Aug 2022, 05:19 
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Spin Meister wrote:
What low-cost, light-weight blade would you recommend for someone who just recently made/making a foray into Medium Pips


Anyone .. ? Initially, I want to focus on control .. getting the ball on the table, and being able blocking top-spins - initially passive, but then, gradually progressing to more active blocks..

I already have a Stiga Allround Classic and Friendship C-5.. Would either of these work ?


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PostPosted: 07 Aug 2022, 13:29 
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Spin Meister wrote:
Spin Meister wrote:
I already have a Stiga Allround Classic and Friendship C-5.. Would either of these work ?


I've played with both .. The C-5 is a bit stiffer, and faster than the Stiga Allround Classic.. It's thicker than the Allround, but lighter.. I've used it with LP, and works fairly well .. Not too sure how it'll work with MP .


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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2022, 08:27 
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Blade: Tibhar Li qian
FH: Xiom Vega Max
BH: P1R .5
Stiga Clipper -any version- , Primorac OFF - ,Stiga Infinity off .


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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2022, 14:15 
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Sami wrote:
Stiga Clipper -any version- , Primorac OFF - ,Stiga Infinity off .


I've tried Stiga Infinity, and Played with Primorac OFF-, quite a bit ... Played for a couple of years with Clipper ... They're good blades, but none are light-weight.. Sorry, I should've mentioned light-weight, since I'm recovering from a wrist injury.


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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2022, 20:40 
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Blade: Nittaku Barwell ST
FH: Xiom Sigma 2 Europe 2.0
BH: Spinlord Gipfelsturm 1.5
bty SK Carbon worked beautifully with Spinlord Gipf 1.8! My blade is 78 gr, not too much rigid, a lot of control, good speed. Now I use Nittaku Barwell, less control in my MP backhand, but I gained speed in my inverted FH.
Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: 09 Aug 2022, 15:08 
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Zamma wrote:
bty SK Carbon worked beautifully with Spinlord Gipf 1.8! My blade is 78 gr, not too much rigid, a lot of control, good speed. Now I use Nittaku Barwell, less control in my MP backhand, but I gained speed in my inverted FH.
Hope this helps.


Thanks for the suggestion - SK Carbon has Tamca Carbon .. I've owned 2 TAMCA blades (Primorac and Gergley), and played several others (Timo Boll T5000, Garaydia T5000, Sardius etc) and they've all been OFF+ or even OFF++ ... Also, at $100, this falls on the outer outer limits of my budget..


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PostPosted: 09 Aug 2022, 15:48 
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Hi everyone,

is there any among who would have tested diode V ? it is a defensive wood as everyone knows and yet powerful, the successor of the JSH but from its characteristics it would also seem compatible with medium pimples like the Keiler or or the Do Knuckle. I oscillate between these 2 at the moment. What do you think?


Last edited by akathedude on 10 Aug 2022, 04:26, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 09 Aug 2022, 21:56 
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Blade: Nittaku Barwell ST
FH: Xiom Sigma 2 Europe 2.0
BH: Spinlord Gipfelsturm 1.5
Spin Meister wrote:
Zamma wrote:
bty SK Carbon worked beautifully with Spinlord Gipf 1.8! My blade is 78 gr, not too much rigid, a lot of control, good speed. Now I use Nittaku Barwell, less control in my MP backhand, but I gained speed in my inverted FH.
Hope this helps.


Thanks for the suggestion - SK Carbon has Tamca Carbon .. I've owned 2 TAMCA blades (Primorac and Gergley), and played several others (Timo Boll T5000, Garaydia T5000, Sardius etc) and they've all been OFF+ or even OFF++ ... Also, at $100, this falls on the outer outer limits of my budget..


Hi, SK Carbon is an OFF blade, definitely not OFF+


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PostPosted: 10 Aug 2022, 03:08 
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Zamma wrote:

Hi, SK Carbon is an OFF blade, definitely not OFF+


okay, that's still fast ... How about something in the All+ or OFF- range ?


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