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PostPosted: 27 Nov 2019, 22:26 
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Firstly, please see attached picture.

OK. I'm going to have a custom blade made to my preferred dimensions and a wood I've come across on a blade thst imparted more spin on my chops than anything I've ever played with. The issue is that I asked the blade maker if he could put the handle in the more standard, up on the blade itself position. But he then said it will reduce the spin potential, so his solution is to do what's basically in the attached photo. My hand will feel a normal habdke position but the blsde will retain the spin potential.

Sounds great. Only its not just how thr handle feels in the hand. I found with the blade that directed me to this blade maker that chopping was incredible, but the flex created by the low handle position made it feel like it was counteracting the power of my attacks. His solution to this is to use a thicker core wood for more speed. So this could solve thr issue.

I'm basically posting this to see if anyone here has any advice or experiences with things like this.

For reference, I am a modern defender. Like to put a lot of backspin on my chops and attack too. The Joo blade has seemingly been thr perfect balance till the temptation of all that extra spin :).


Attachments:
_20191127_124539.JPG
_20191127_124539.JPG [ 40.63 KiB | Viewed 137 times ]

_________________
Standard Setup 1
Blade - Joo Sae-Hyuk ST
FH - DHS Hurricane 3 Neo 2.2mm
BH - TSP Curl P1r 1.5mm

Standard Setup 2
Blade - Joo Sae-Hyuk ST
FH - DHS Hurricane 3 Neo 2.2mm
BH - TSP Curl P4 1.5mm

Hardbat Equipment (Former Full-Time Hardbat Player)
Blade - Marty Reisman custom 5 ply Hock
Rubber - Yasaka Cobalt Alpha OX
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PostPosted: 28 Nov 2019, 01:21 
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We had this long discussion about whether blades "flex". A few years back there was all sorts of talk about "flex" - people would claim, for instance, that blades flexed like rainbows if you exerted pressure on the tip, this "flex" was necessary for good looping. This was fine - until you tried it. Nope, 5-6mm blades do NOT bend like rainbows. Whatever bending happens, it happens at the neck, where the handle pieces end and the blade proper begins. Yes, you can actually induce blades to bend here - but it's a tiny amount. You'd have to push a LOT to get the blade to move even 3mm at the tip, and if you push much more the blade will break off right where the bending takes place. So the bending caused by impacts with the ball are pretty tiny - probably a fraction of a mm even for a very hard whack. But I think this tiny amount is significant - the movement, plus the subsequent vibration, which you sense through your hand, contributes to the "feel" of the blade, and what we perceive as "flex".

So your experiments with moving where the ends of the handle pieces meet the blade proper are interesting. If you move the handle "up", yes, you'd make the blade "stiffer". Whether that would hurt attacking power is an interesting question - perhaps it would depend on the stroke you use. A heavy contact flat kill would be different than a brush loop, for instance. My suggestion (if the cost isn't too high) would be to have two otherwise identical blades made - one with the undercut handle pieces like the one in your photo and one with normal, solid handle pieces. Put identical rubbers on them and test away.

And then tell us your findings.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2019, 10:04 
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Blade: 729 1060 all raquet
FH: 729
BH: 729
this is
like old hardbat blades


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PostPosted: 03 Dec 2019, 01:24 
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The old hardbat blades had the undercut handle pieces?? Very interesting indeed. Maybe someone should measure and make drawings of old Hocks and MacCrossens.

Iskandar


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