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PostPosted: 26 May 2014, 17:01 
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ROFL.. Looks like Butterfly's been doing it, too:

http://www.butterflyonline.com/static.a ... ology.html

(Check out the blurb for "T-Tec").

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 27 May 2014, 08:16 
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Blade: Victas Matsushita Off
FH: Tibhar EL-s 1.9
BH: Victas Curl P1V 1.0
Is there also a way to INCREASE the weight of blades easily? That would interest me!

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PostPosted: 27 May 2014, 08:25 
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1. Opposite of the above: store in a humid environment. Doesn't sound like a good idea.
2. Soak in something that would then dry, leaving a residue of something inside (like salt). Sounds risky.
3. I read that WLQ dipped his blades in varnish or shellac or something like that.
4. Lead tape as edge trim (bonus: would increase rotational inertia (stability) proportionally more than mass).
5. Add a veneer!


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PostPosted: 29 May 2014, 00:31 
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Someone (I think Butterfly) sells a heavy edge tape. I'll see if I can find it in a catalog somewhere.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 29 May 2014, 19:07 
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Andro heats and dries wood veneers (so there is no problem as regards the glue) for their Temper Tech series. They claim the process prevents the wood from absorbing moist as well.
Normally, high grade woods used for musical instruments, expensive furniture, etc. are left to dry and harden stored in an airy, rather cool environment for several years. And before that, they are "watered", that is kept submerged in a pool or canal for at least one year to get rid of resins, as these contain sugars that will attrack micro-organisms which will will make the wood rot. The outcome of this lengthy (but low-cost) process, which may take as much as a dozen years or more, is very high quality wood that will not rot if it is kept reasonably dry or protected with a sealing that allows the wood to breath (e.g. linseed oil) and will absorb very little moisture (so it will hardly shrink or expand).
For large scale production in factories, this practice has been abandoned for decades and replaced by oven-drying at high temperatures. The resulting quality of the wood is less high.
Temper Tech blades look and feel very nice, but I doubt if the claim that they won't absorb moisture at all is a valid one.

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PostPosted: 29 May 2014, 20:00 
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They can always seal them to make them 'more' waterproof.

Yes I think most brands now have these types of blade. Donic has their 'burn' series.

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PostPosted: 09 Jun 2014, 03:25 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Someone (I think Butterfly) sells a heavy edge tape. I'll see if I can find it in a catalog somewhere.

Iskandar


I know Butterfly and Nittaku do. They are actually weight side strips. Basically, each strip weighs 1gram, so you can add them to the side of your blade.


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PostPosted: 19 Jun 2014, 21:04 
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Be mindful if you are going to oven or heat the blade.

Firstly, there is a difference between heating the wood used to make the blade vs heating the blade. I think the manufacturer's process is heating the wood first before cutting it to make the blade. So, that's different to heating the blade.

As an example,
"T-Tec technology exposes the wood to extreme heat during the manufacturing process. The heat changes the chemical composition of the wood making the blade extremely stable and very durable. The cell structure of the wood is tightly compacted which reduces the weight of the blade, increases the hardness and greatly reduces its ability to absorb moisture." No where does it say it exposes the blade to heat during the manufacturing process. And, thinking about it, it seems more logical to treat the wood before cutting - a more controlled process, a more cost effective process.

Secondly, whilst heating the blade could have an effect on the wood and composite (for a composite blade), there is the danger that the heat might have an ill effect on the compound used to glue the plies together.

Now, I did do a low heating process last year on one of my blades. The idea was to age it a little. I didn't make any measurement of the before and after (e.g. weight and thickness change). Nor did I notice any performance improvement. Would I do it again? Unlikely, but I thought it was fun at that time.


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PostPosted: 19 Jun 2014, 21:20 
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Blade: Zhang Jike SZLC
FH: Tenergy 05 2.1 Blk
BH: Tenergy 05 2.1 Red
When I changed the rubbers on my recent new blade - only about 3 months old - it went from 89 grams to 92 grams.
After all the warnings about putting blades in the oven etc. I left the blade to dry outdoors for the best part of a day where it got a little bit of sun.
Lost 1 gram.
Applied a hairdryer primarily to the handle and it came back to 90 grams.
I thought - that's it.
Spoke with my Italian mate who is very proud of his hinoki one piece blades and Amultarts etc and he literally gave out to me saying that I should not have done that !!!!
Did notice that the Innerforce blades all started to revert back to their natural weights so any artificial drying only seemed to have a temporary effect.
For anyone tempted to use ovens etc. I would strongly suggest to RESIST the urge !!!!
But I do think that it's worth while taking rubbers of one's blade occasionally and letting the wood breath a bit.


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PostPosted: 21 Jun 2014, 02:15 
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Well, considering you can pick up pretty nice Chinese blades for about $10, I'd say, why not give it a try? Even if it burns up (which I don't think it would at, say, 100 degrees C), what have you lost?

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 19 Feb 2017, 02:21 
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Speaking of which... :lol:

Image

Problem, though - what to do about the lens??

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2022, 14:57 
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Blade: Viscaria FL
FH: Tibhar MX-P
BH: Tenergy 05
Bumping this thread back up. Is anyone still trying this technique? If yes, how is the change in the blade feel? Did anyone try doing this to an ALC blade yet?


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