OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Hmmm, I don't think I can be any more specific. But I added a picture of the bottom of the handle, here you can see what I mean (I hope)

The straight vertical lines is the blade surface. The horizontal lines are the lines in the handle.

Note to self: next time fix the crookedness and make everything nice and perpendicular

The stripes on the handle are actually leftover pieces of the glued veneer plate from which the frame is cut.

Thanks for the compliments[/quote]

Thanx for your reply. Can you pls be more specific.?[/quote]

Hmmm, I don't think I can be any more specific. But I added a picture of the bottom of the handle, here you can see what I mean (I hope)

The straight vertical lines is the blade surface. The horizontal lines are the lines in the handle.

Note to self: next time fix the crookedness and make everything nice and perpendicular[/quote/]

Ah, makes sense now.

Hi Ross,
do you think its best to glue both layers of veneer at the same time.? I have done layer then cure then the other layer.
Which method would you think will give the blade better performance.?

If your glue has a short open time, that's probably a good way to do it and still be able to clamp the glue-up flat. I use a long open time glue so I can glue all plies at the same time and get the whole thing into the press.

_________________
Ross
Handcrafted Table Tennis Blades

The open time wasnt a concern as is quite long, i was wondering if the reclamping at those high pressures will affect the first layer of Urea as it dries crystalline .

I wouldn't think it would be an issue as long as the clamping is uniform across the face of the blank.

_________________
Ross
Handcrafted Table Tennis Blades

Hi to all.
This is really interesting thread.
In fact i like the idea to create blade acoording this here.. So i started.
One think i have isues... To glue and place the ply one each another...this is the hardest part for me...
Here are some photos of mine progress.... Im creating 7 ply blade..
0.6mm Mahogany , 0.6mm oak ,2mm balsa ,0.6mm oak, 2mm balsa, 0.6mm oak, 0.6mm Mahogany.

Very nice! What glue do you use, and what do you use to cut the outline? That's the exact same method I use for clamping the plies together.

Sounds like a fairly thick blade - 7mm. Why the thin ply between the balsa layers?

Iskandar

Thanks
I`m using PVAc adhesive "Rakoll ® Express 25Plus " it has 10 min off time then 30 min under pressure time . but i`m letting it dry for one week . to avoid bending.
The thin ply between balsa ... it has two reasons ...
1. - i do not get mine hands on 4mm balsa in this dimensions
2. - I`m using DHS Rubbers which are a little bit heavier .so i decided to have 7 ply Wood
But 7 mm is not so much in the hand .... it looks thin for me i`m thinking to make a one with 1mm outside ply.

And here i just finish basic shaping of the handle. i has to be glued with the blade and then final sanding and finish .
I will use only water based glaze for the finish .

It looks nice!

It also looks oversize, and the shape also makes it's look like a defender's blade, is that intentional?

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It only looks so ... because of perspective of the camera...
but it is Standard-1 shape from Ross Leidy web with a little bit tweaks .... but the size is the standard.
Mine Dhs blade i have for compare is really oversized ..
And i forgot to mention about the cutting of the blade is the same way as Ross. But only i have the original shape burned with Laser to 3mm metal.
Thanks.
Robert

And here is the final blade....
Weight is now 90 grams.

Not surprisingly, model airplane shops are the best place to get balsawood. A good one should have a large range of thicknesses. 4mm is fairly common. Balsa also varies a lot in density. Some fanatics will bring a balance to the shop and weigh all the pieces! You should also be able to glue balsa to balsa with no problems. By the way, check out the very thin birch plywood at the model airplane shop - it comes as thin as 0.4mm - and that is 3 plies!

Iskandar

I would like to say great read and A1 blades
I was looking for some help...Iam in Australia and interested in a build
I currently play with a Butterfly Carbo 5x with Tenergy 80FX and find it a good match for me, so iam looking to build something to this blade.....
My first question the type of Balsa can I just go to my local hobby store and buy it??????or do I need the right type????
and do you go on the Janka rating for the type of blade response...we have some great timbers in Australia....I have a few non believers at our club........I do have access to all the tools and look at making a cracker of a bat.......I understand it takes time to get the perfect combination.....

BALSA ????
JANKA ????
GLUE ?????
CARBON ?????

I hope you can help cheers

Here is one link which help me the best by selecting material in begining ... hope you find it usefull
http://www.tabletennis.gr/forum/guides/137120-how-to-make-a-blade-by-blade