| OOAK Table Tennis Forum https://ooakforum.com/ |
|
| Make your own blade https://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=11969 |
Page 33 of 41 |
| Author: | notcras [ 30 Nov 2018, 09:40 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
This thread is really inspiring me to try my making my own blade. If I wanted to do that however, I would want to stick with an ALL-/ALL+ blade. I am unfamiliar with wood qualities, but based on what I've read (and other blade compositions) I was thinking that something like [limba - ayous - kiri - ayous - limba] would be a good ALL blade. I have no idea about thicknesses, but I guess the kiri would be like 3mm, and the others 0.8? Thoughts? Is there any good resource to tap online (other than this forum) so I don't have to bug you guys? EDIT: of course, right after I post this I find this amazing post on wood properties right on the forum (https://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=12687). Nevermind this question Or rather, do you guys think there is a good 'starter' custom blade to try first? Or is it just grabbing whatever I can and trying to make a blade from that? Thanks! |
|
| Author: | adyy [ 04 Dec 2018, 18:18 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
If you want to investigate compositions of blades go here: https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/compo.php search your desired compo, press the ? button and see which blades have it and then search reviews of these blades. This can be an idea how to investigate a composition. Also read this thread: http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=11969 As a starter, do something from whatever you can find easily and without spending too much money. The first I have made was mahogany-fiberglass-balsa-balsa-balsa-fiberglass-mahogany, and this because I had mahoganny, fiberglass, balsa and epoxy at home. |
|
| Author: | iskandar taib [ 04 Dec 2018, 20:29 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
adyy wrote: How accurate IS this??? I looked up the Sanwei M8 and it claims all five plies are walnut. This is assuredly NOT the case..  In fact, they list M1 through M8, and they're ALL 5 ply walnut... I also wanted to see what the Yinhe N11 was made of, but they don't list any Yinhe blades. Iskandar |
|
| Author: | lasta [ 04 Dec 2018, 20:33 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
I would say 80% correct  .As far as I can tell, all secondary research, but better than nothing. A starting point then reviews and testing. Valuable purpose. Wasted hours on that site 
|
|
| Author: | lasta [ 04 Dec 2018, 20:35 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
Another resource for "empirical" comparison is https://ttgearlab.com/. BTW Mr. Taib, you seem to love your M8  Should do some stiffness/frequency measuring and Ec/Ep comparisons. |
|
| Author: | adyy [ 04 Dec 2018, 21:21 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
The https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/compo.php contains data proposed by enthusiast readers. And yes, it is not entirely accurate, but it's a bit better than hard wild guess. If you want to search for Yinhe go here https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/brand.php and select Galaxy/Milkyway/Yinhe If you want to propose something, it's here: https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/add.php |
|
| Author: | iskandar taib [ 05 Dec 2018, 02:18 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
Ah silly me.. I forgot Yinhe was known by other names.. Still, no N11. I was wondering if they'd ever heard of meranti/lauan.By the way, a lot of these woods have more than one name. Kiri is also known as paulownia, for instance (and is sold by that name on AliExpress). Ayous is also known as obeche or abachi - it's sold as "obeche" by people who sell model airplane supplies. If you just want to try making a blade really quickly before ordering veneers, go to your local hobby shop (the ones that actually sell model airplane building supplies, not the ones that sell RC cars and drones) and buy some 5mm balsa and some 0.4mm 3 ply birch. You'll end up with a 5.8mm thick 7 ply blade with six birch plies and a 5mm balsa core. You will need something to clamp the sandwich tightly together while the glue dries (woodworking glue - e.g. Titebond - will work OK for a simple blade like this) - two pieces of 3/4" MDF shelving about a foot long plus some large woodworking clamps will do. Don't be afraid to clamp TIGHT. Handles? Use balsa blocks (get a 12mm plank when you're at the store) and whittle using a knife. Use Duco (cellulose) cement for the handle, in case you want to remove it (use acetone). If you have a Daiso store nearby you might be able to get 6mm paulownia planks, which you can use in place of the balsa. Iskandar |
|
| Author: | adyy [ 11 Dec 2018, 17:52 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
If cork like this:  would be used as a core material, would it be ITTF compliant? Anyone have any idea? |
|
| Author: | iskandar taib [ 13 Dec 2018, 01:30 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
I don't think it is.. that's granulated cork. There's a rule against using reconstituted wood, like chipboard, this probably falls in the same category. The stuff they use in blades like the 729 A3 should be continuous cut sheet cork. Then again, who's going to know? I think blades with a layer of cork are the only ones that actually flex lengthwise, if only a little tiny bit - the cork is soft enough to deform in the shear direction. I have a A3 - just too bloody heavy.  Iskandar |
|
| Author: | adyy [ 14 Dec 2018, 01:49 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
iskandar taib wrote: ... a layer of cork are the only ones that actually flex lengthwise, if only a little tiny bit - the cork is soft enough to deform in the shear direction ... This is what I was thinking about. On some local forum, someone stated that he did not found yet a blade so soft that a ball would not bounce from it if it fell from 20 cm above. And I was just thinking, how that impact could be absorbed almost totally ... |
|
| Author: | iskandar taib [ 15 Dec 2018, 02:00 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
Actually, I think the ball would actually "diving board" off it. The harder you hit the ball the more pronounced the effect, and even so, the effect will be tiny, even with the cork. Problem is, if you read forum posts from a few years back, a LOT of people were saying a LOT of blades had this "flex", and were behaving like diving boards. I think it's more likely, with certain types of blades, that you have a "drumskin" or trampoline effect, where the surface of the blade rebounds. Even this would be very miniscule, since there's a sheet of rubber which is MUCH softer than any wood, in between the ball and the blade surface. If you want damping, it would have to be the equivalent of a layer of felt on the blade. Putting the cork on the surface rather than inside the blade would probably do it. Iskandar |
|
| Author: | rbj [ 24 Dec 2018, 02:53 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
For those of us who make their own blades you might be interested in the new material and the question I posed under the general "blades" category re superwood. Am looking forward to trying superthin, superstrong light core with different veneer outer layers. Process seems so simple (but don't know how much pressure is required) might even try making some yourself. Some info here: https://www.sciencealert.com/new-super- ... than-steel |
|
| Author: | cogito [ 30 Dec 2018, 21:32 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
That is indeed very interesting. However I would prefer such a densified cellulose layer as an alternative to carbon sheets if one could use normal glue instead of the epoxy. One should keep in mind that the densified sheet is extremely different form the original veneer. |
|
| Author: | iskandar taib [ 31 Dec 2018, 02:51 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
What would REALLY be interesting is what a thin layer of RUBBER in the middle of a blade would do. Iskandar |
|
| Author: | adyy [ 14 Jan 2019, 18:35 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Make your own blade |
iskandar taib wrote: ... I think blades with a layer of cork are the only ones that actually flex lengthwise, if only a little tiny bit - the cork is soft enough to deform in the shear direction... This weekend I have glued a tang with granulated-cork core. It went up at 5.5mm with a layer structure like: red cherry - balsa - cork - balsa - red cherry. Tang itself has only 35 grams and frequency is a bit above 1000 Hz. I think I can finish the final blade at 50-60 grams. But the question is: would it be usefull in some tactical game? Maybe with some LP's? iskandar taib wrote: What would REALLY be interesting is what a thin layer of RUBBER in the middle of a blade would do. Iskandar For sure it would help the blade be very flexy. But the problem is what to use for glueing rubber to wood? PU/PVA/epoxy will delaminate after a few matches. ... wrote: ...superwood... Regarding superwood, I would try to use it deeper in the blade, replacing a composite layer (like carbon, fiberglass, etc). For sure it would help a thin light blade to be a true OFF, or even an OFF+. |
|
| Page 33 of 41 | All times are UTC + 9:30 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|