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PostPosted: 27 Aug 2021, 10:02 
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Manufacturer: RE-IMPACT

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Location: Lembruch Dumber lake, Diepholz, Lower Saxony, Germany
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Le Géant http://noppentest.de/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40320

Camaleón http://noppentest.de/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 8581f97615

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PostPosted: 01 Oct 2021, 16:48 
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Iron Pips
Iron Pips
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Joined: 14 Jun 2010, 22:07
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Location: Göteborg, Sweden
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Blade: Matador
FH: Tibhar K1 Euro
BH: SuperGlanti
I am waiting för my own version of Le Geant, probably arriving late next week.

I will be trying this blade with a fast glanti (SuperGlanti in 0.8 mm or perhaps SuperGlanti Attack or something else). But I don't really expect this blade to be very good for frictionless anti (but I have tried at least 100 different blades and telling in advance what will work or not is really hard).

My main purpose with this blade is to continue my other part of the dark side of table tennis, with short pimple or perhaps medium pimple. So I hope this blade will be great for an allround game based around blocking, pushing, countering, hitting and chopping with SP on BH and finishing the point with FH. This is where I left my game when I returned to Glanti back in May or June this year. Then I used DHS Classic 08X (very nice blade) with classic SP 802 with original orange sponge 1.5 mm. And my regular 40 degrees Yinhe Jupiter 2 on FH.

On Le Geant I plan to try the same SP, but also a version with a white softer sponge. Then I will probably try Spectol 1.8 mm, Spinlord Nashorn 1.5 mm, medium pips Agressor 1.5 mm, Flashback 1.5 mm, Pluto 1.5 mm and perhaps some more SPs, LPs or MPs. I still think that 802 will be the best, I really like that becase it has decent spin at pushes and you can chop with it and also hit and block. It is a little grippy so I need to read spin much more careful than I am used to.

On FH I will try to find a thin soft rubber with decent speed and very good grip (I prefer tacky). But I will start with my regular rubber, but a softer version of it (like 35 degrees). Then I will borrow some different tensors like Tibhar or Andro to try. I may also try Yasaka Rakza 7, that is a very nice rubber.

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PostPosted: 26 Apr 2022, 06:28 
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Iron Pips
Iron Pips
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Joined: 14 Jun 2010, 22:07
Posts: 4506
Location: Göteborg, Sweden
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Blade: Matador
FH: Tibhar K1 Euro
BH: SuperGlanti
Review: Re-Impact Le Géant

I received my first Re-Impact Le Géant (LeG) early this year and two weeks ago I received an “updated” version of LeG, with a slightly different shaped hitting area (and for some reason darker colour). This review will be mostly about the newest version, although there are only very small, but important, differences.

About me: I am born 1973, I played table tennis 1987-1989 (double inverted) and then I got back to it in 2008 and have been playing at least twice a week since then. From 2009 I have been using anything but ordinary inverted rubbers on BH. I am usually ranked somewhere between top 600-1000 in Sweden.

For some 6 years I have been using Glanti on BH but during the pandemic I got fed up with that. So the last two years I have been competing with Glanti but also practicing a lot with short, medium and long pimple on BH. On LeG I have tried Barna SuperGlanti 0.8 mm, Sauer & Tröger Zargus 1.5 mm, Neubauer Killer Soft 1.5 mm, a few different long pimple ox and perhaps a few other rubbers on BH. On FH I first tried Yinhe Jupiter II, but then I moved to Yasaka Rakza 7 soft in 2.0 mm. I also have tried the ordinary Rakza 7 in 2.0 mm, but I like the soft better, at least on the new dark LeG. The last month I have been using LeG with long pimple ox on BH full time.

The feel of this blade is, of course, very light (64-65 grams) but also balanced. In some way the new version of the blade feels more crisp, like it is glued together with more preassure or something. This makes it a little faster, perhaps less controlled, but also more dangerous om BH side I think. But I am used to heavier setups so for the moment I use leaded edge tape to make the blade heavier (just so my two setups are at the same weight, since ordinary Rakza is clearly heavier than soft). Some extra weight at the top of the blade gives a different feeling, faster and more solid. I would encourage anyone to try to add 5-10 extra grams to the top of the blade just to feel the difference. It may not be good but it can make your attacks more powerful.

FH on this blade is just sooo nice! It felt good with Yinhe Jupiter II but when I tried Rakza 7 soft 2.0 it was a very different feeling, where the blade added lots of speed and also spin. A flat hit can make the ball shoot away like a rocket while a thin hit with some wrist movement will make very good top spin. It is a little difficult to combine hard hits and lots of top spin, so those hard, fast, spin loaded loops may not be the strength of this blade, but it may also be that I haven’t found the right touch or the right rubber for that stroke. But hard drives and smashes works great with a big popping sound. Also, you need to play this blade with some authority, if you are too soft or lazy, the placement and spin will not be very consistent. So to compare to a blade like the Stiga Clipper, a Re-Impact is not very linear. There are several sorts of thresholds or gears that you need to get past (in force) to really be able to use this blade I think. But when you are in position and have a clean hit you get rally awarded. But you can still use the outer parts of the blade for a slow and very spinny loop, and the amount of spin will be difficult for your opponent to read and perhaps handle.

For me, with the soft Rakza, the FH side feels very safe and I feel I can place the ball anywhere I want. It is very easy to place the ball on the table and the arc sometimes causes the opponent difficulties. At least on drills where I just blocks with FH side my opponent misses more than I am used to just by me blocking. It is also very easy to just add some speed to the ball when blocking to make it a counter drive, and this also feels very safe. Looping back loops are also very easy and here you get lots of speed. But you can also choose to give it a thinner touch with lots of spin but lesser speed, to mix the game up. Pushing is ok but, of course (it is a balsa blade), a little bouncy and difficult to keep the ball low. The only problem I have with FH is looping against back spin, where I have troubles finding the right amount of force, touch, spin, angle to get a powerful attack against back spin. But this may also be a rubber issue.

The BH side is different, a bit muffled, controlled, but with hints of catapult when you put some force to it. It works great with the soft sponged and semi-grippy short pip Zargus, very controlled but with good extra speed when you hit with force. And you can still block with a light touch and remove most of the spin from the ball. Throw angle is rather low (but not super low) enough for disturbing blocking game with long pimple. I have mostly used it with Neubauer Trouble Maker ox and I feel that this rather allround long pimple provides many different solutions to each problem. That is not always the best (you need to decide what solution to use) but it is very fun, especially after years of using Glanti with very few solutions to each situation. With this setup I can attack no spin and even slight top spin, I can push against back spin and produce a low no spin push (that looks like it has back spin, deceptive). I can attack back spin, and do all kinds of blocks, like with most long pimple rubbers without sponge. Unfortunately I am not very experienced here, I have not used many blades with long pimple ox. But with this blade it feels controlled at low speed but you can still give the ball some decent speed at attacks. Most of the balsa effect is gone on BH side, unless you hit hard yourself. And if you block a hard attack with not too much spin you can block in several different ways. To me a chop block is very difficult to time the right way, but if I manage to do it, it is loaded with spin. I prefer to move towards the ball with a slightly closed bad, with a rather firm grip of the handle and accelerate a little towards the ball just at contact time. This returns the ball fast and rather low, sometimes with a little back spin but mostly I think with very little spin. The blade feels very nice and stable, with a large sweet spot for these kinds of blocks. There is no “delay” or so in the block like a more flexible blade may have, and I like that stiff feeling.

When it comes to serving I am still having some troubles with inconsistency with this setup, but I am not sure if it has more to do with not using tacky rubber or the blade. But I am having troubles keeping the ball low and spinny when serving, or getting the serves fast enough when I want to. But at this department the Clipper with tacky rubber is hard to beat.

I also tried this blade with frictionless anti (Glanti) Barna Original Super Glanti 0.8 mm. This is the anti I have been using the last years so I am very familiar with it. Pure blocking is good with this blade and the control is there, but attacking back spin felt very odd and at match play, when out of position it was really difficult. Also, hard attacks made the balsa effect come into play, sending the ball straight forward, fast and without spin. So it felt very inconsistent with that kind of rubber. Maybe it would work better with the new version of the blade and with a slightly thicker sponge. I may try this later, but I don’t think that would make attacking back spin better.

For me the best part of this blade is the FH side and the combination of feeling in control of the ball and still have enough power to hit past your opponent as well as being able to produce very good and variable top spins. The BH side is more safe and more linear than the FH and that is probably what I need in order to learn this playing style. But I feel there may be better blades for if your aim is to be as devastating as possible with your long pimple ox.

Below are a few clips from a recent session. The first one shows a drill (DHS ABS-ball) blocking against top spin (the “hard” block I described above) and a few attempts to attack back spin (I really need to get better here). Then there are two sets played against the same opponent (double inverted). Next clip are practice sets against lefty with medium pips Keiller 1.2 mm on FH, inverted on BH, with a different ball (729 ABS-ball, first time for me).

Now I will continue to practice blocking, attacking back spin on both sides and improving my footwork :whew: :) . Take care!



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PostPosted: 26 Apr 2022, 08:36 
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Call me Shrek!
Call me Shrek!
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Joined: 25 May 2011, 12:38
Posts: 1183
Location: Perth, Australia
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Blade: Dr Neubauer High Tec Plus
FH: Hurricane 3 Neo
BH: Tibhar Hybrid K3
D-A,
try Joola Maxxx-P on the fh instead of R7S. More power and spin, but the same sense of safely. It is likely to give more spin on serves, as well as making it easier to loop against chop. I played with R7S both sides for years.

Serving with balsa and a soft rubber will never feel as though you can serve as tightly as with a tacky rubber. It is one of the trade-offs. I find if you focus on getting the ball to settle into the sponge as you srve, you can get a lot of variation. The balsa also allows for very quick serves with minimal movement if required


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PostPosted: 09 May 2022, 06:54 
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Iron Pips
Iron Pips
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Joined: 14 Jun 2010, 22:07
Posts: 4506
Location: Göteborg, Sweden
Has thanked: 698 times
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Blade: Matador
FH: Tibhar K1 Euro
BH: SuperGlanti
Just a quick update: i tried this blade a few sessions more with long pimple ox but I don't think it works very well. I tried Trouble Maker on my Stiga Clipper Classic and that was easier for most typical long pimple strokes, more direct feeling and more controlled or predictable.

On Le Géant I instead put a sheet of Neubauer short pip Killer 1.5 mm, and, like with short pip Zargus, the blade shines a lot more. The sponge removes the muffled feeling and with a short pip I can appreciate the speed on BH the comes into play at a certain amount of preassure. The control, even with such a difficult to control rubber like Killer is very good. After an hour or so I could block and also add some speed myself to make it more lime a counter drive. This stroke made the ball go straight and then sink on opponents side - very nice. So I think this blade is more suited for short or medium pips with some sponge (not too hard), or even long pips with sponge. At least the way I play it.

Here is a clip from a practice match, at the end of my first session with Killer. It really look forward to try this setup more!

https://youtu.be/C_5BfBQYDwM

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