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PostPosted: 09 Jun 2020, 20:48 
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Iron Pips
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Last week I had more practice with Palio TS 3 and Störkraft 1,6 mm and I felt it had a little high arc, especially against no spin balls. Yesterday I tried the 1,2 mm version on that blade (fast carbon-titanium). Störkraft is a peculiar rubber... There was clearly less spin reversal on blocks with 1,2 mm compared to 1,6 mm, but also lower throw and better for attacking. But my opponents had no trouble looping many times against my blocks. This may be due to the speed, that it feels more easy to loop again when the ball approaches faster. But it was a big difference. So that was not a good match, and I felt very insecure with that fast combo.

Then I tried the 1,6 mm on the slightly faster and more lively, but still carbon and titanium, Palio TCT. That was a great match. Only problem is that the blade is a little heavy (about 10 grams heavier than TS 3) so I am not as fast at the table as with the TS3. But blocks were great and FH is a dream with TCT. Anyway, for me, with those kinds of blades, the 1,6 mm is clerarly the better option. The slower speed and softer feeling makes the back spin more pronounced, more lethal. And the slowness makes the timing more difficult for my opponents. But attacking back spin is not as good (but still good).

The quest for the perfect combination continues, but most variables are set to constants by now. Soon I have the formula for my perfect bat 8) . Now I will try to make my TCT a little lighter...

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PostPosted: 30 Jun 2020, 05:51 
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Today I tried lots of blades with Störkraft and SuperGlanti. To my surprise the carbon blades kind of killed the spin in most cases. I tried Palio Conqueror, TC7, TS3 and Galaxy T1s along with an old Stiga Clipper CR WRB and a Bty Petr Korbel (Gionis blade). Both Clipper and Korbel made blocked balls go low and controlled with lots of spin. The other ones may have kept the ball low but most of the spin was killed. Clipper was the best I think. But it is too slow for a 1.6 mm Störkraft. And too fast for 0.8 mm (we had no 1.2). I also tried Stiga Carbonado 190 and 90 but they were not as good as Clipper. 190 was really bad, almost no spin on blocks. This is relally odd...

For now I am slightly injures with pain in lower back and hip. I need to rest from ant real table tennis but I can stand at one spot and block or loop, but no movement sideways :(

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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2020, 17:39 
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I still have a a slight injury in my back/hip but I can play almost normally as long as I don't move to fast sideways. So no step around and use FH from BH side. Aldo I need to be careful looping against back spin.

Last week I tried a new blade, a Palio V1. Double soft carbon layers on a 7 ply blade. Still only 79 gram so one of my lightest blades. It has a nice feel to it, controlled, and a little softer thsn my previous, but many gears so good speed when you hit hard. Clearly higher throw and more spin than the TS3. My opponents suddenly had more problems with my serves because of the spin.

And, it worked good with anti. 1.6 mm Störkraft was very slow but good spin reversal and ok throw angle. Ok against back spin but difficult against no spin. But it was clear that I need a blade that works with 1.2 mm, blocks with 1.6 mm are too high and attacking back spin is not good enough. TS3 does not work with 1.2 mm, too fast and it somehow kills the spin on blocks.

So, I then I removed the top sheet from the sponge and put it on an 1.2 mm (around 1.2 mm at least, not really sure). This worked ok on V1. Low angle on blocks, good for attacking back spin, nice back spin and not too fast, but I think there could be even better back spin.

So, since I have some spare time before I can train "for real" again I ordered some more blades (fron wookie i Sweden, same store from where I got the V1). I ordered 3 new Palio blades.
A1 (some kind of fast allround, 79 gram)
A2 (7 ply all wood, 80 gram)
Energy 05 (3 layers wood, 2 hard carbon, stiff and rather fast, 80 gram)
I was thinking about Energy 04 but the lightest was 86 gram, too much

Also, from another place, I ordered a Loki-blade, Violent 9, a 9-ply with carbon and Ebenholz as outer ply. It sound very promising :). The weight was 84 gram, so a little heavy but I got so curious.

But my recent findings indicates that stiffness is good but it should not be very hard. So perhaps softer outer ply on a light rigid blade that still has some speed. This is why I am interested in A2 and Clipper. If A2 works out there are other 7-ply I will try, like original Clipper, Andro Timber 7, Loki Violent 7 and 7RS.

This is for Störkraft 1.2 mm. Not sure if this goes for the other thicknesses ..

Actually, if all goes well I will have all 4 new blades today and perhaps I can try them today as well :).

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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2020, 17:59 
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Blade: Nblades 1 ply hinoki
FH: Rallys Redmonkey
BH: Slick antispin
Looking for your test with the ebony blade !

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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2020, 08:28 
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Ebony blade no good. It killed the spin. Nice blade though, but not for anti. Tve new carbon blade Palio Energy 05 also killed the spin. Palio A1 was ok, a 6 ply blade. Palio A2 was better, a 7 ply blade. But none of them was as good as Palio V1.

Then I tested a Stiga Clipper wood, no WRB, no CR. 83 gram felt a little heavy but very nice and solid, still some dampening.

It works great with 1.2 mm Störkraft, although a little fast. Palio V1 is a little more controlled, flat arc but a little less back spin. I guess any rigid 7 layer wood with a rather soft outer ply works. But I will probably settle for a Clipper now for this season. If I try to find a better 7 ply than Clipper I will have to search for a long time I guess :)

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PostPosted: 29 Jul 2020, 18:58 
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I have been using Stiga Clipper wood with 1.2 mm Störkraft these last weeks and it feels good. It is actually 92 gram (not 83) so a little heavy. But it does not feel that heavy since it is well balanced with a heavier handle than most other blades. But I will try to get a lighter version but for now this will do.

Blocking with anti is great, with some dampening but still enough speed for attacking back spin. The arc is rather low on these blocks (with low impact) and it feels very controlled.

The feeling of this blade in my hand is like the feeling of comming home :) . I used this blade like 2 years back in the late 80's. It was the very first blade I ever bought. But I am a much better player now and I also realize it is rather demanding. As long as I am in position and work through the shot I get rewarded. But if am a little late, a little weak in the stroke or don't hit the sweet spot, the ball goes to the net or high.

The last two years I have been using very forgiving blades with BIG sweet spots. This one seem to have a mind of its own :). During training last night I got a little frustrated. The ball went all over the place from my inverted side (both BH and FH). But some strokes went very well also. I just was not consistent enough. But I really like the feeling of this blade, and it is very fun to use since I can make more spin with it (and variation of spin is therefore better).

I think I am a little off in my timing due to the weight, so a lighter version might help. But a lighter version has other density and will behave differently. Well, time will tell...

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PostPosted: 28 Aug 2020, 20:29 
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I am still having pain in my back from playing TT :(. Block and drive may work but looping and moving swiftly sideways hurts, at least after training.

I am doing rehab workout for my lower back and hips and core, and I am getting stronger. But so far it is not taking away the pain. And only 1 months until our season starts. My guess is that I would probably need to stay away from table tennis completely for a few months to get completely free from injury :(.

So I am also considering changing stuff to avoid this from happening again. Yesterday I toyed around with SP Firestorm soft on FH to make the balde lighter and not ro have do work as much against back spin. I used it on a fast carbon-titanium blade. Fun, but difficult. Some attacks were just awesome but you can't play gentle with such a setup. All in or you miss.

But I liked the lighter setup so next step is to try a balsa blade. Barna Original Super Glanti works very well on balsa blades, like DMS Wizard Fire or Sword Final Strike (not made any more). My bat could be like 25-30 gram lighter this way. And I will get a little short pimle effekt from a balsa blade, making it less heavy to loop against back spin. If I spent the next weeks learning a new blade and only play very "non moving" I may be ready when the league starts.

But this is just incredible frustrating though, since I just felt so satisfyed with my Stiga Clipper blade and Störkraft. My FH started to work very well.

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PostPosted: 29 Aug 2020, 20:44 
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But this is just incredible frustrating though, since I just felt so satisfyed with my Stiga Clipper blade and Störkraft. My FH started to work very well.
^^on a personal not i have always played through pulls etc.used to always pull my sacroiliac joint playing tennis.i then play through tennis elbow by wearing a brace.i recently pulled my groin playing tennis and just played through-carefully ofcourse.
seems a shame to move away from the gear u like-up 2 you mate.
bruce has really let himself go and cant even remember the words now :devil:

also there is a new series in sweden called partisan-my next door neighbour has a song on that series.


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PostPosted: 03 Sep 2020, 22:17 
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Iron Pips
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I have been using a thick balsa blade this week, a Sword Final Strike (no longer made) with 10 mm balsa core and thin outer ply of walnut (I think). It is at 74 gram so a lot lighter than prevoius blade and that feels very good for my injury. But I want lighter and perhaps a tad more controlled (is os very fast). I use it with Barna Original SuperGlanti 1.6 mm - a very worn version, so not the best but still very nice flat arc and good spin reversal.

I just ordered a Spinlord ultra balsa V (74 gram) with a 7 mm balsa core and thin carbon layers with the hard wood koto outside. I hope the carbon layer won't destroy the spin reversal... Also, I ordered a TSP Balsa 8.5 (65 gram). Very curious about that :).

Normally, frictionless anti and balsa is a bad combo, but this anti works very well with some balsa blades.

My coach Marcus J almost beat Fabian Åkerström last weekend at a competition in Halmstad (lost 11-7 deciding 5th set). He used an old custom made blade (made for him in the 90s when he used Super Block) with 8 mm balsa and probably walnut outer plies. He had 1.2 mm SuperGlanti on that blade.

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PostPosted: 04 Sep 2020, 08:32 
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i like your coaches style.do u know what blade and rubbers he was using then


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PostPosted: 04 Sep 2020, 15:03 
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Iron Pips
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peterpong wrote:

i like your coaches style.do u know what blade and rubbers he was using then
I think he was using Diabolic with blue sponge. Not sure what blade, perhaps TSP 2.5 balsa fitter def (not in production anymore).

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PostPosted: 04 Sep 2020, 17:25 
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Iron Pips
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Joined: 14 Jun 2010, 22:07
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Off topic (but it is my blog, so...) - this is my current favourite band, from a little town called Eksjö in Sweden:

https://youtu.be/tImGF4csU60

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odw_KMai2EA

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PostPosted: 05 Sep 2020, 00:29 
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Def-attack wrote:
Off topic (but it is my blog, so...) - this is my current favourite band, from a little town called Eksjö in Sweden...

You like this kind of music? Unless you already know it be sure to watch the movie "Heavy Trip" by Juuso Laatio and Jukka Vidgren.
Different style, but even more funny: "Sound of Noise" by Ola Simonsson and Johannes Stjärne Nilsson

Enjoy...

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PostPosted: 05 Sep 2020, 02:47 
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^sounds good
love the early death metal from sweden and also dissection.


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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2020, 20:37 
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Iron Pips
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From another thread (viewtopic.php?f=43&t=37282):


Def-attack wrote:
I have had my first tries with my two new balsa blades, Spinlord Ultra Balsa V (75 gram) and TSP Balsa 8.5 (66 gram). Both are nice blades and both have a thin wooden layer over a thin carbon layer, over a thick balsa core (5.5 mm in Spinlord and 8.5 mm in TSP). TSP has a super thin outer ply and carbon layer, while the outer layer on Spinlord is a little thicker but I think harder (koto) so it has more of the feeling of a "normal" blade.

I am new to balsa but I have been using a Sword Final Strike (74 gram) lately, it has a 10 mm balsa core and a thin layer of some dark hard wood as outer ply (walnut probably) without carbon. This blade is not in production any more. I have also tried a Donic Cayman briefly.

I use balsa blade now because I am slightly injured in lower back/waist, so the lower weight and lower throw helps a lot. I use frictionless anti on BH and usually this does not work well with balsa, but Barna Original SuperGlanti works very well, at least in 1.6 mm thickness.

I have been testing them with H3-50 and Yinhe Jupiter II, with SuperGlanti 1,6 mm on BH.

In general the Spinlord behaves and feels more like a "normal" blade in most parts and you need to put more force behind the stroke for that balsa feel to kick in. But the other two blades are more to the extreme, the Spinlord is more of a normal balsa blade.


Looping: All three blades are ok in this area, some spin and arc but not as with a Stiga Clipper. But the speed when you put some preassure behind the ball is great. At the same time you can brushloop and generate a descent amount of spin to confuse your opponent. It is actually very easy to confuse opponent with these blades, especially TSP and Sword, since the amount of spin vary a lot.
Looping against back spin is rather easy but you need to be careful or the ball will go long since it has less arc. But you can also use the backspin and more or less smack the ball like a hard flip.

Countering: This is soooo fun! TSP and especially Sword are very good here. You just find the right angle and the top of the arc, and smack the ball back. It shoots like a rocket :).
With chineese tacky rubbers you can also loop back with ordinary technique, just closing the bat and looping back. But this can be is a little more tricky than with other blades since you don't get the arc.

Blocking inverted: This is also very fun but you need to block with some force. Passive blocking against high spin loops can be rather tricky since the ball tend to go long. Having a light grip or touch don't seem to help much. But if you add some speed the ball goes flat, almost like you have a SP :). This is most pronounced with Sword but also woith TSP. With Spinlord you need to work more like with a normal wooden blade.

Blocking anti: also good with a low arc as long as you time the block right. The margin for errors is not as big as with a slower blade. But when you nail the block it is very low :). This is for all three blades. But spin reversal is clerarly worse on the Spinlord blade, probably due to the harder and thicker outer ply (Koto). Sword os faster than TSP and has a little lower throw, but there may be a little better spin reversal with TSP.

Aggressive pushing anti: This is where TSP really shines. For some reason (the carbon perhaps) this strioke is more easy and effective with this blade, and the ball seeks the table on the other side (the back spin is converted to top spin in a better way than with the other blades). Sword is also good but the handle is bigger, the blade is heavier and thicker and faster, so it is mroe difficult to do the stroke and the ball does not dive as much on the other side of the table aswith TSP.

Serving: Here is Spinlord clearly better with its wooden feel and thinner blade. More spin is produced and the blade is more easy to handle. The Sword feels is a little better than TSP. I think the outer ply and the lack of carbon makes the low impact ball contact a little softer, so more spin can be imparted at serves.

Pushing: This is also an area for the Spinlord. But a slow and soft tacky rubber helps a lot here. But pushing with TSP and Sword requires a soft hand with fine adjustments, since only a little harder grip or swift movement makes the ball go long. The control in the short game with low impact can be rather ok with those blades if you have a slow, soft, tacky top sheet (H3-50). If you try to push with more speed it is easy to push too long.

All in all, I will keep the TSP for my main blade since it has almost everything I want now, with some more control than the Sword. The Sword is more fun to use, but when I get nervous in matches I will miss too much with that blade. And the handel is not as god, the blade is thicker and it is also 9 grams heavier (makes a little difference). So it will be my back up for a while, or I may use it against some opponents. The Spinlord Balsa is a very nice blade but not for me, since it does not work with these anti's.

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