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Rubber cleaning experiment
https://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1009
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Author:  RebornTTEvnglist [ 24 Dec 2007, 01:03 ]
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Performance always comes at a price though haggis!

I am trying another product on my old butterfly which could go either way to make smoother or tackier. Unsure which it will be until it dries overnight, but if its any good I'll post it up.

Author:  BrainStorm69 [ 24 Dec 2007, 01:25 ]
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haggisv wrote:
Hmm interesting product brainstorm69. Table tennis rubber surfaces are pretty delicate, so I tend to be real careful what I use.

Yes I did finish the experiements, and the spinmax does easily outperform the other products by making the rubbers more tacky. But it can't beat the cheap pricetag of the veggie oil :wink:


I understnad the desire not to ruin an expensive rubber. That's why I tried if on the 729 Lightening. At $5 a sheet, I figured I could take the chance. Doesn't seem to have harmed the topsheet at all, but I've done it only once. Not sure what repeated applications would do.

What does Spinmax smell like?

Author:  RebornTTEvnglist [ 24 Dec 2007, 19:23 ]
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Well the product that I tried has me a bit bewildered. It was Meguiars Endurance which is a tyre protectant gel and it makes your care tyres look sexy. Now as I thought it was designed to protect rubber it may have a good effect on TT rubber. What it has done is actually make the rubber feel quite slippery, but I seem to be able to still generate quite a lot of spin off it. Dragging the ball across it offers little resistance, bringing the spinning the ball down to a flat bat results in a great jump in the spin direction. I havent had a chance to have a hit with it to see how it would play. The pick up test had the ball just leaving the surface and dropping again, so there's a tiny bit of tack which was about all there was in these 25 year old rubbers anyway. But interestingly, even though the rubber is slippery it still maintains that bit of tack. I'm not thinking this is going to beat the veggie oil for a treatment, but it was an interesting result anyway, and these rubbers should be preserved more now for my EJ hall of fame, haha.

Author:  haggisv [ 24 Dec 2007, 19:52 ]
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Good to see you guys are still experimenting! :wink: This thread can go on forever :lol: :lol: :lol:

Author:  RebornTTEvnglist [ 07 Jan 2008, 00:23 ]
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OK this is probably not going to be a startling addition to this thread, but maybe it may be an interesting tip for someone. I found that if I get some junk or dust on my rubber the best way to get it off is to get a wide strip of sticky tape and lay it across the rubber and it takes off any junk that's there very nicely. Of course inground marks remain and a proper clean is needed for these. But I think one of those lint rollers may be a great thing to have at comp to roll over the rubbers after a game and take off any dust build up. And I noticed that the stickiness of the tape seems to disappear, so perhaps there is remnants of the glue left on the rubber. I wonder if over time doing this if it would build up the tackiness of the rubber if it was not cleaned off?

Anyway if you clean your rubber and use a cloth that leaves some lint, this is a great way to remove it.

Author:  seaton [ 11 Feb 2009, 23:21 ]
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haggisv wrote:
Hmm interesting product brainstorm69. Table tennis rubber surfaces are pretty delicate, so I tend to be real careful what I use.

Yes I did finish the experiements, and the spinmax does easily outperform the other products by making the rubbers more tacky. But it can't beat the cheap pricetag of the veggie oil :wink:


Did the new aqueous version outperform the older very effective solvent ? based version?
How often to clean a rubber; I have tried various types and find they last between 3 months to a season with regular weekly clean using water or foam or liquid cleaner, but have not tried any of the non-prorietary cleaners in the test. I would like a cleaner which is magically capable of renewing the original surface without ruining it - too much to ask of the rubber selling companies? You bet too much profit in selling new rubbers. Number of discarded tt rubbers over the years which could maybe have been rejuvenated by a good cleaner.....
I have just purchased the new Joola aqueous fluid cleaner, but no instructions for use were included; how to apply, for how long and how regularly! A friend ley me try the older red version once and it seemed to melt the top layer (more like it) but is it now banned?
I recenltly used a Stiga China Extreme rubber which was excellent for me, however within 6 weeks it had lost its surface and despite cleaning with foam (gently) weekly it is now useless - Nae Guid!
I have replaced it today with Geospin Tacky and now scared to clean it!
:!: :!:

Author:  RoosterDragon [ 12 Feb 2009, 06:13 ]
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The foam cleaners can kill your rubber (IME), I would go with the water cleaners which have a slight bit of cleaner (soap) in, for example Butterfly Cure Water. Bottled mineral water is also very good but I found the Cure Water to be better.

PS. How do you store your rubbers? If you use sticky rubber protectors (WHEN PEELING OFF, PEEL VERY SLOWLY, you don't want to rip the topsheet off) the tackiness is maintained and even improved. I have a sheet of GeospinTacky as well and use these tacky rubber protectors.


I found that messing with the topsheet could create tacky patches and not so tacky patches which doesn't really matter for serves and loops/chops but when blocking, some pop up and some go in. :(

Author:  quelis [ 12 Feb 2009, 21:23 ]
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I'm so happy I found this thread. Thanks Seaton for bringing it back! I just use a few drops of olive oil on my Mars and an old Hurricane III and both recovered a younger look and felt grippier. It's easy, affordable and convenient.

Author:  RoosterDragon [ 13 Feb 2009, 01:19 ]
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quelis wrote:
I'm so happy I found this thread. Thanks Seaton for bringing it back! I just use a few drops of olive oil on my Mars and an old Hurricane III and both recovered a younger look and felt grippier. It's easy, affordable and convenient.


I wouldn't of wanted to eat that Mars :o :lol:

Author:  big_lou [ 15 Feb 2009, 02:55 ]
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I have used Eucalyptus Oil to rejuvenate old tacky top sheets and also on grippy, non-tacky top sheets with good success. It also thoroughly cleans any built-up, hardened, glue, that got on the top sheets during repeated re-gluing. Diluted EO also works great as a routine cleaner.

.

Author:  Mt.Biker E [ 24 Feb 2009, 04:14 ]
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I've been using lestoil to clean my rubbers when they need a good cleaning. Does a good job restoring tackiness & cleans off oils from your hand.

http://www.amazon.com/Lestoil-Concentra ... B0009PCPAY

I also picked a rubber cement pick up cleaner, for us messy glue'ers. It works awsome for getting glue off of the rubber or blade. So far its worked with several types of glue.
http://artistsupplysource.com/product.p ... ctid=20943

Author:  akkal [ 08 Mar 2009, 02:19 ]
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Has anyone tried automotive tyre polish?
I saw one today and mentioned features like cleans grime and dirt....just what we need.

Author:  RebornTTEvnglist [ 08 Mar 2009, 02:42 ]
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Tyre polish is good if you want Anti. Helps turn LP into frictionless too. Not very legal...one of those things the ITTF is trying to stamp out. Does however protect your rubbers and keep them in nice (slippery) condition lol.

Author:  akkal [ 10 Mar 2009, 03:06 ]
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What is actually recommended?
A smooth surface or a rough one?
I believe a rough surface provides more friction and thereby gives more spin.
Please throw some light.

Author:  RebornTTEvnglist [ 10 Mar 2009, 13:50 ]
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When you say rough, I assume you mean grippy, and yes this is generally better for generating spin. It also reacts to spin more as well, of course.

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