OOAK Table Tennis Forum

It's far better and cheap, for 20€ you can have 250ml from to websites, not to mention that since it's made locally, I can have it for 6€/110ml. And it's voc free and iitf approved, being used from Canada to South Africa and China.



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Problem is, it's water based. With the usual problems of water based glues. Innoglue is also water based, but apparently you only have to apply it to the rubber, and you can easily peel the rubber off and transfer it to another blade without having to apply any more glue (it behaves like a post-it note). Problem is shipping.

I like Elmer's. No need to wait long for it to dry, and unlike water-based glues, it's hard to make a mistake and end up with a bad glue job. Just friendlier over all, and it's available at Wal-Mart and Office Depot if you're in the US.

I wonder what this "heveia milk" is that Igor's writing about.. He was touting latex body paint some years back. I don't think that'd work - if latex body paint were sticky there'd be a bunch of people who'd end up stuck together at raves and discos.....

Iskandar

No Walmart in Romania, but since I received my AliExpress order and my office was closed (the Revolution no 3 was there) I glued my Kokutakus 868 on the Boer Lion blade with an ordinary 1$ glue from Leroy Merlin and the racket is just amazing

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+790***00** 02-06-2020 20:08:45
HIGH-CONDENSED Milk for the Champions.

Having been asked about his gluing practices, Dima Ovtcharov openly confessed
-- Presently, I'm using something like a condensed cookery milk on both sides. Earlier times I did tested those fluid stuff and I disliked it strongly.
Surely, Dima meant to say "White glue looking like a condensed milk".

Dima, a skilled pongster, he is well-aware that the natural moisture of latex sap is the worst enemy of the outer veneers as found in many Donic blades , which makes him to invariably opt for a high-condensed latex milk with low moisture content under 14%, something like adhesive TUTTLE PRODUCTS.

SOME SCIENTIFICAL HINTS FOR THOSE INQUISIVE MINDS.
https://youtu.be/qIGVi41loy0?t=409
https://youtu.be/qIGVi41loy0?t=742

Typical Composition of table tennis adhesive (VOC free).
https://youtu.be/NcugB_waCKo?t=120

I bought Rev 3 and I hated it. If you don't put at least 3 coats it's very thin and impossible to remove. Also there is a very small window of time to attach the rubber. Once applied you can't apply rubber too early or too late. There's like a 5 minute window. If you apply too late you will have to add more glue but if you apply too early and it's still moist it will ball up and it's a pain to remove. Also if you don't put on thicker towards the edges it will separate in time and it's impossible to just add a dab to repair. At that point I would have to completely take off rubber and reglue.

Bumping the edge when playing will lift the rubber. But I imagine most glue will separate too.

Next time purchase a medium viscosity Revolution 3 glue in order to have less hassles and frustration.

Starch powder is the key.

It's so simple to apply it: I put 2 layers on the rubber+1 layer on the blade. Each time you need to wait until it gets transparent, then apply another layer and that's all, no need for extra glue on the edges. I had trouble when re-glueing old rubbers, but I got used to it.

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Had the same issue on my sealed blades. The edge lift off no longer happens when using a 320 grit sandpaper after sealing (knocking down any shine i see)

The edge lift off happened with;

Elmer's paper cement thinned with Hexane
Donic Blue Contact
Butterfly Free Chack
Nittaku Fine Zip

Never had an issue with rev 3. I can leave it for hours and still stick it. As with any glue, it can be difficult to peel off soft porous sponges without damaging it. Peels off easily on dense sponges.

Falco glue however I had issues with bubbles. Not sure why this is. I can still use it if I use a different glue on the blade and falco on the rubber or vica versa.

Donic glue I found almost impossible to peel off the rubber. But it remains tacky, even years after removing it from the blade. EG: I can peel a rubber, then glue it onto a different blade without needing to put another layer on the rubber, as the dried glue on the rubber is still tacky.

The biggest issue is making the glue even without streaks, as uneven streaky glue can become visible on the surface of the rubber once glued. You need a soft touch to spread it evenly, plus squeeze the excess glue off of the applicator (especially edges) and then continue to spread until the streaks are gone or very thin.

Also hinoki top plies are the best. With most other woods, the glue gets into the pores of the wood, so when you take the rubber off the blade, the glue left on the rubber isn't smooth.

If you want to avoid hassle, get big dipper, which comes with a perfect glue layer already on the sponge. I wonder if other max-tense sponges also come with a glue layer?

Stiga glue is much like shaving cream. Easy to spread.