OOAK Table Tennis Forum

You are enjoying your new custom name, don't you?

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USATT: 1807 | League: 1887

I just ordered the Yinhe N11 and 2x RITC 729 Friendship General Sponge Rubber Pips-In
Total cost $21

I'm an office-warrior-type player playing with a Stiga premade that cost $7.

I think it depends on how much time you intend to invest in the game, and how dedicated you are to improve. I have been coaching an athletic player who totally new to the sport. I had him try a number of combos. I found that he showed the fastest improvement with a very slow blade, a Walmart Sportcraft, that I put a used sheet of Tenergy 1.9 on forehand, and a used sheet of Moristo DF 1.9 on the backhand. He said that he really liked the weight and control that it has. He has picked up a backhand and forehand counter after a few hours. I have been playing for over 35 years and have lost count on how many combos I have tried. I wish I had the wisdom to learn with a slower blade. I tried this combo and was very impressed with it. I know it is a costly combo over the previous suggestions, but I think it is worth it.

Ok, so, as VERY FEW of you guys know, I'm a defender. You'll see me frequently on the long pimples section. I've decided on dawei 388d1 black 0.5-0.8 mm from a suggestion by leatherback (Thank You ooak community!) I need help choosing a low throw rubber that can do pretty much almost anything decently. I've been thinking maybe a sheet of Gambler Reflectoid with max sponge, for more speed. I also need help choosing a blade that's STIFF and medium-medium hard, I don't like flexy and mushy blades at all. I also like to vibrations, and catapult effect is ok as long as it's controllable for a newbie tt player with proper technique. A thickness of 5.8-6 would be preferable, although a minimum thickness of 5.5 is acceptable. Any suggestions? For my backhand, i will be chopping and pushing using 388d1 with the VERY occasional hit (will rarely do it); for my forehand, I fish, do opening loops, counter loops, and chops; for close to the table game, I almost never flick. I do pushes, blocks only if it is mandatory, and I will do a kill shot if my opponent makes a mistake wether its close to the table or far away. Footwork isnt exactly the best, so I try to play a medium paced game, but fast paced is also comfortable, as long as its in my forehand area. Any advice PLS? THANKS! EDIT: I really favor a game where I'm far away from the table, to mid-distance, because I chop 80% of the time with my backhand in rallies; I push when forced to go near the table (18%), backhand hits would be the rest 2%. Forehand, think gionis but actually chopping quite a bit, way less than joo sae hyuk though. Budget is 120 US dollars max, not including tax and shipping.

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player

Well, one thing the N11 is NOT good for is chopping... On the other hand, the 896 seems to be better (a little slower).

Iskandar

Just a question, who are you telling this to? Just out of curiosity and slight confusion, any clarification woumd halp thnx!

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player

The N11's sort of become a running joke. In my case, I discovered this blade a couple months after I started playing again - I bought one because Keme said is had an unusual feel to it, you could (if I recall correctly) feel the ball on the racket. Indeed, I found it did feel very nice - mainly for loops, but mainly for the very crisp hitting. I've since tried all sorts of other blades (trying to keep it cheap, so I have not tried any of the expensive fast carbon blades, which by consensus here are supposedly hard to use unless you're a really good player) - The 729 C3, the 896, the W6, te KTL Instinct, the Stiga Allround Classic, the (admittedly expensive) Darker 7p-2a, the Nittaku Septear, the Kiso-7... and yet I keep coming back to the N11. All the other blades sit in my tote bag, unused - I genuinely feel that for me, the N11 is superior, despite it's very low price (it's the cheapest Yinhe blade on the market). I actually own three now, they're all within a gram of each other and I can try different rubber sheets on them and compare them back-to-back.

The joke revolves around the constant requests we get for "first serious bat" - there's an average of one every two weeks. Search the discussion threads, we've accumulated an astonishing number of these. Each request is followed up by a bunch of advice, more or less the same, from a bunch of people. Get an all-wood, ALL to ALL+ blade, and a pair of rubber sheets (advice here varies, but there are a lot of good Chinese sheets for under $10 each, some under $5). Well, the N11 does fit the bill, and I like it, so I've been suggesting it to all and sundry. In truth any number of similar blades might work. but I do think the N11 has several things going for it: 1) it's inexpensive, 2) it weighs 80 grams, which I feel is about ideal for a lot of people, 3) it's easy to get - you just need a credit card and $11 (including shipping) and it'll be at your doorstep in about three weeks. I figure given the price there's no harm in anyone trying one - besides, Yinhe is known for excellent build quality. The face is soooooo smooth when you remove the cellophane cover, running your fingertips over the surface is just tactile ecstasy... The only thing I don't like is the ugly handle.

Iskandar

So basically the N11 is my ideal blade? Stiff, and NOT soft? Oversized as well?

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player

Well, if you're a chopper, it's not. That's one thing I find hard to do with it, is chop. The 896, though, makes it somewhat easier. Neither of these are oversized, so I'd really look elsewhere.

Iskandar

Oh wait, I know! What if I got the JSH blade and paired it with a slooooooowww rubber like gambler reflectoid (the sponge is dampening, isnt it?) And a cheap chinese pip (neptune, meteor or 388d1) on the bh?

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player

Sounds good. Just do it.


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If You are a chopper who love to chop perpendicular to ball path, do it.

For me, Reflectoid and Submarine is gold standard for chopping rubber.

One thing to note,

I am firmly believe that Joo blade more a blocker blade, Aurora style, than a chopper blade. It slow, but hard. The resulting combi shall give "meaner" reversal than Defplay, at the expense of ability to generate spin.




Sent from my T1X Plus using Tapatalk

What does it mean to chop perpendivular to the ball?

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player

Trajectory of the paddle is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the path of the ball. These school math lessons are useful, you know...

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USATT: 1807 | League: 1887

Ooooohhh ok now ik what you mean thanks

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player