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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 15:12 
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FH: Yasaka Mark 5
BH: Yaska Mark 5
Hello all,

Can anyone please suggest a good glue for Chinese hard rubbers,also since I have a all wood blade is it fine to use a water based glue ?

Also, I was considering boosting my Chinese rubber, but now have decided not to since its banned as per ITTF rules, however last I checked all Chinese players boost their rubbers and ITTF doesn't do anything about it. Strange !!

Regards,
Rahul


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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 16:17 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
WBG ( Water-Based Glue ) is mandatory only for competition sanctioned by ITTF. State/County/District/Local competitions usually follow ITTF rules but rarely enforce them to the point of checking what sort of glue you have used.

DHS No.15 in the toothpaste tube , Andro VOC Free-Glue and costlier Butterfly FreeChack I/II, Stiga Optimum. Tibhar Clean Fix, Revolution No.3 ( Low , Medium and High Viscosity ) is also okay.

Avoid Nittaku FineZip if you are from a Dry and/or Hot climate country you will ruin the glueing.


For some reason there is myth going around that the water in the water-based glue will ruin the wood veneers of a table-tennis blade .... why is this idea getting any traction ?

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-TG2Neo/H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YRakza7/H2 Orig
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 16:30 
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Blade: Stiga
FH: Yasaka Mark 5
BH: Yaska Mark 5
I heard DHS No.15 glue is good mainly for boosted rubbers, but I'm not planning to boos my rubbers.

Most of the glues nowadays are water based and I think its better to seal the blade (especially if its a all wood blade), before applying water based glues


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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 17:08 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
rahulsteel wrote:
Hello all,

Also, I was considering boosting my Chinese rubber, but now have decided not to since its banned as per ITTF rules, however last I checked all Chinese players boost their rubbers and ITTF doesn't do anything about it. Strange !!

Regards,
Rahul


This is a very bad way to ask for advice. If the Chinese are jumping wholesale off of cliffs, why should anyone else jump from the cliffs as well ? So ask your advice on-topic and avoid inflammatory comments ... :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: We have a recreation / experimental / lounge forums to feed trolls and ask weird questions. :rofl: :lol: :lol: :lol:


DONT READ BELOW IF YOU ARE SENSITIVE PERSON! :lol: :lol: :lol:

/ RANT MODE ON

Rubber manufacturers use boosters in the rubber manufacture process it is unavoidable. The compounds are extremely volatile and some cases harmful in confined spaces. Some players found out that certain rubber cement/ rubber glue compounds have these VOCs. They used them and found the rubbers got an extra "boost" in their characteristics. Was it the Hungarian team ? Yugoslav team ? Some European team anyways. It became common and some kids used too much in close quarters and passed out ( likely glue-sniffing ). ITTF proposed and enacted a ban on boosters without specifying if only players are forbidden or manufacturers are also forbidden ( hint: they can't hence all the controversy ) instead vaguely worded the rule saying rubber covering unaltered chemically or physically as per new product ... but the factory uses boosters in the production/manufacture ...

Chinese players are playing for "glory" and "medals" and "soft power" and "dominance" and "nationalism". So boosting and violating ITTF rules as long as they can getaway with it is perfectly fine for them. Same thing of some Japanese players and individuals in the table-tennis circuit. Edge balls won't be acknowledged, not shaking hands, cho-ing, deliberately making noises, foot-stamping etc etc etc ... Now I am creating my own controversy :lol: :lol: :lol: :devil: :devil: :devil:

/rant mode off

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-TG2Neo/H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YRakza7/H2 Orig
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 17:15 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
rahulsteel wrote:
I heard DHS No.15 glue is good mainly for boosted rubbers, but I'm not planning to boos my rubbers.

Most of the glues nowadays are water based and I think its better to seal the blade (especially if its a all wood blade), before applying water based glues



DHS No.15 is WATER-BASED glue. It will work regardless of whether the rubber is boosted or not boosted.
Dude. Are you purposefully creating false information ?

Sealing a blade can be done with variety of wood varnishes. Wood varnish comes in *GASP* water-based PU varnish ( matte or glossy ) and other oil-based varnish. Some of these varnish can be "staining" or "non-staining". Sealing the wood with varnish helps give a good surface finish ( it looks nice ) and prevents the wood fibres from lifting ( splinters but not if you hit it like with a hammer or edge of a table :lol: )

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-TG2Neo/H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YRakza7/H2 Orig
==========================================================


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 17:21 
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Blade: Stiga
FH: Yasaka Mark 5
BH: Yaska Mark 5
Thanks

I did read on some forums, where it was indicated DHS 15 is mostly used on boosted rubbers, will try to lookup in my history where was this.


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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 18:13 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
DHS No.15 glue is a very thick glue ( high viscosity ) so it contains lots of rubber in solution. So you can apply very thin layers and still have very good contact and adhesion.

Downside of high viscosity glues is that they tend to dry very rapidly. And sometimes you don't get enough time to spread it out before it starts reacting.

Water-based doesn't mean the product is filled to the brim with water. There is a high ratio of dissolved material that will form as the low quantity of water evaporates at room temperature. WOOD glue is usually water based and you don't see carpenters worried about water damage to their work pieces.

Use any glue you want and unless you are in an ITTF sanctioned tournament, there is no real pressure to use WBG.

My Humble Opinion:
Personally, I have always used WBG because I have around 5 or 6 table-tennis blades, and tend to move my rubbers around a lot. That involves NPR ( Nail Polish Remover :D ) and re-glueing and cutting excess and repeated sealing and removing rubbers and glueing rubbers till the cows come home. So I use WBG because it is much easier to remove the rubbers and leaves little to no residue if I do it carefully and right. I buy WBG by the kilo and the litre :D :rofl: :lol: :lol: :lol: which is very VERY expensive. :cash: :P :P :P

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-TG2Neo/H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YRakza7/H2 Orig
==========================================================


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 19:20 
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Heck, I use Elmer's Rubber Cement myself. None of this waiting around for the stuff to dry. VOCs? Who cares? Who's going to test my bat for VOCs? They're all gone after a week anyway.

Water based glues work. They're also a major pain in the neck. Really easy to make mistakes when using them, too. They also cause blades to deteriorate over time. The only time I'd use them is to apply OX pips. And for those I've moved exclusively to glue sheets. Whether you use them or not, do seal your blade.

I think Man_iii is confusing boosters with speed glue :lol: I played during the speed glue era, it was a huge pain in the neck. You had to glue up before playing, and if you played more than 3-4 hours you had to glue up again. Worse, at tournaments you had dozens of people gluing up in the bleachers stinking up the place. But a lot of people say that a speed glued sheet of Bryce was more "boosted" than the best boosted Tenergy out there today, nothing compares.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2019, 20:03 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Heck, I use Elmer's Rubber Cement myself. None of this waiting around for the stuff to dry. VOCs? Who cares? Who's going to test my bat for VOCs? They're all gone after a week anyway.

Water based glues work. They're also a major pain in the neck. Really easy to make mistakes when using them, too. They also cause blades to deteriorate over time. The only time I'd use them is to apply OX pips. And for those I've moved exclusively to glue sheets. Whether you use them or not, do seal your blade.

I think Man_iii is confusing boosters with speed glue :lol: I played during the speed glue era, it was a huge pain in the neck. You had to glue up before playing, and if you played more than 3-4 hours you had to glue up again. Worse, at tournaments you had dozens of people gluing up in the bleachers stinking up the place. But a lot of people say that a speed glued sheet of Bryce was more "boosted" than the best boosted Tenergy out there today, nothing compares.

Iskandar


I concur. But MarK V with the glasss plate method is faster than Bryce. Never tried speedglued Tenergy though.


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2019, 02:18 
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Haven't heard of the glass plate method. We'd usually pour a nice puddle (a good 5-10ml at least) of speed glue on the sponge and spread it around, and then wait 20 minutes until you got a nice dome. You'd meanwhile have put a thin layer on the blade, and then you'd put them together (no one cared if it was a little crooked or if there was a 2mm overhang since you'd have to remove it after playing anyhow..). Yeah, I wonder what'd happen if you used the old REAL speed glues (as opposed to the watered-down Chinese low-VOC ones that you can still buy today) on fresh Tenergy…. :lol: Maybe the topsheet will split...

Come to think of it.. I've still got a can of the old ASTI glue lying around somewhere. Maybe I'll try it on a sheet of Batwings - no one ever talked about gluing up Chinese rubber back then, it was always Japanese or European style sheets.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2019, 13:22 
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Yeah I might have gotten side-tracked with my rant mode on and ended up talking about the speed glue / booster ban :lol: :lol: :lol:

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-TG2Neo/H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YRakza7/H2 Orig
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2019, 17:35 
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These posts were dated in 2016. But can't find any other posts regarding glue.

The purpose of the glue should fulfill:
1) A very good and strong bond between rubber and blade giving good responsive play
2) Should not cause damage to rubber and blade upon removing
3) Ease of use
4) Storage life (I suspected that my Revolution glue has lost its original qualities after 1+ years)
But 3) and 4) may not be a concern depending on your situation.

I would like to ask which glue satisfies all the above, and
How many layers of glue should be placed on the rubber and the blade?

Perhaps specifically, compare glues based on the points above:
DHS No15, Andro Turbo Fix, Butterfly Chak, Revolution . . . . . .

Thanks in advance


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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2019, 23:57 
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lionto wrote:
These posts were dated in 2016. But can't find any other posts regarding glue.

The purpose of the glue should fulfill:
1) A very good and strong bond between rubber and blade giving good responsive play
2) Should not cause damage to rubber and blade upon removing
3) Ease of use
4) Storage life (I suspected that my Revolution glue has lost its original qualities after 1+ years)
But 3) and 4) may not be a concern depending on your situation.

I would like to ask which glue satisfies all the above, and
How many layers of glue should be placed on the rubber and the blade?

Perhaps specifically, compare glues based on the points above:
DHS No15, Andro Turbo Fix, Butterfly Chak, Revolution . . . . . .

Thanks in advance


I should think ALL the ITTF approved WBG glue manufacturers have passed the requirements. I don't think I have ever had any glue fail to create a "strong" bond. I have stored glue for longer than 3 years, with mixed results.

Use any glue you would like to use, and I think this topic is becoming stale. How much about glues can we talk about ???

3 layers of glue on the rubber, 2 layers on the blade ... 5 layers on the rubber, 1 layer on blade.... 1 million layers of glue on rubber + blade ... :?: |( :^) :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :lol: :lol: :lol: :D :D :D :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :Chop: :Chop: :Defense: :Defense:

Sorry guys. I am just being little silly. Just go do whatever you feel is right for you. Sometimes learning by doing is the only way to figure things out.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-TG2Neo/H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YRakza7/H2 Orig
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2019, 00:35 
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If you can source TSP Noriko, those used to be the holy grail of glues.

Nowadays Haifu Whale is fairly accessible and very popular in China.

Cheating? At what level? I've never seen racket testing other than the umpire having a look at the logo.

What does a guy who boosts till he see's "goosebumps" forming under the topsheet have to say about the guy who speedglues till he see's goosebumps forming? Does the Falco Tempo Long user have the right to complain about Iskandar using unauthorized VOC infused Elmer's glue? It's like a LP pushblocker complaining after loosing to an anti pushblocker.

Next thing to complain about is Hugo Calderano using tailor made completely non-original spec'd rubber with Omega VII stamped on it. Is it illegal? Who cares?


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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2019, 02:52 
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lionto wrote:
1) A very good and strong bond between rubber and blade giving good responsive play
2) Should not cause damage to rubber and blade upon removing
3) Ease of use
4) Storage life (I suspected that my Revolution glue has lost its original qualities after 1+ years)
But 3) and 4) may not be a concern depending on your situation.


You do NOT want a strong bond.. :lol: There are many, many contact cements that are far too strong for table tennis use.

Elmer's Rubber Cement fits the requirements, and is far easier to use than ANY water based adhesive. Best Test would be better. Unfortunately, relatively difficult to find outside the US.

What I'd love to get my hands on is Innoglue. Yeah, it's water based, but you apply it to the rubber ONLY. And then it turns into a post-it note. You can remove and replace that sheet at will on that or other blades. I suppose there's also latex body paint, which Igor recommends... :lol:

Iskandar


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