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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 03:40 
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Two parts.

Part One: I live in Arkansas USA with a very limited TT following, to most it’s considered basement play. In 2016 I built the following Custom setup.

Blade: Yinhe N9
Rubber: DHS Hurricane 3 & Skyline 3

What playing style/stats does this combination produce? I’m not sure my reasoning for selecting this combination but being the researcher I am, I’m sure I had a reason. I spent some time playing with this setup and I’ve really grown to like it after many matches adjusting to it from the cheap “off the shelf” equipment. Fast forward a few years after taking an hiatus (moved) and I’m getting back into playing TT which leads me to my next question.

Part Two: Given the region I’m in, becoming a better player, being coached, and learning the equipment all lies on my shoulders. I’m competitive, so I’m always looking to improve and I’m aware that equipment doesn’t win matches, but I’d like to have the correct setup that will give me the best chance. As with any sport, equipment is always evolving and people are always finding new combinations and such to make the sport better; so, I’d like to build something new.

90% of play is close to the table given ceiling heights and space around the tables. That being said I’m not playing overly aggressive players, I would describe it as def vs. def and see who makes the mistake compared to videos of play in other countries. I often use push shots and flicks with spin I generate and do not rely on FH loops to score. Disregarding the setup I’m using (which is likely wrong) I’m looking to progress to a more offensive player and develop a more consistent FH. I’m inquiring to find a new setup suggested by experienced TT Players that will give me confidence at the table.

PS: Iskandar, I’ve researched enough around the forums to see that you recommend a version of the Sanwei M8 to about everyone... So I have a few on the way with different rubbers to see how they compare. :D


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 03:50 
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Blade: Yinhe V14 Pro
FH: Yinhe Big Dipper
BH: Spinlord Wyvern 1.8 mm
I guess the first question should be - what's wrong with your current setup?


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 04:15 
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ziv wrote:
I guess the first question should be - what's wrong with your current setup?


Other than aging and losing some tackiness, nothing. I'd like to try something different and see how it changes the style of play. As I stated above, unless I have it I don't have access to it... I don't want to use the same setup for life I want to know more about TT equipment :rock:


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 12:48 
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Try to describe your preferences in the following areas:

Performance:
-Low impact speed (pushing, blocking, flicking, looping)
-High impact speed (smashing, full effort drives)
-Do you want it to be overall faster or slower than the N9?

Basic characteristic:
-Stiffness
-Hardness (on low impact)
-Solidity/density (on high impact)
-Weight

Feel (this part gets very subjective):
-On low impact shots, do you want springy and snappy feel or precise and linear?
-On high impact shots, do you want the blade to "envelope" the ball (ie Xiom describes it as "captive" feeling) or do you want to feel as if something is pushing hard against the ball (Xiom calls "repulsive").
-General feedback on impact (sharp or dull, crisp or marshmallowy?)
-Do you want to feel precisely where the ball contacts the blade, or do you want a more uniform sensation even when slightly miss-hit (ie large or small sweetspot)

Some areas have to be sacrificed for emphasis on others. Again, tell us which areas are most to least important to you. ie large sweetspot usually means duller feel, high catapult means less linear etc.


Last edited by lasta on 24 Oct 2019, 12:50, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 12:49 
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The above is for blade preferences only. My opinion is rubbers make less difference than the blade although will accentuate certain aspects of it.


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 13:31 
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lasta wrote:
Try to describe your preferences in the following areas:

Performance:
-Low impact speed (pushing, blocking, flicking, looping)
-High impact speed (smashing, full effort drives)
-Do you want it to be overall faster or slower than the N9?

Low impact speed. I don’t know how the N9 blade is classified, I feel it’s a bit too fast when playing a defense to a loop. I have a butterfly prebuilt as well and when I try to go back to it, it feels dead to me.

Basic characteristic:
-Stiffness
-Hardness (on low impact)
-Solidity/density (on high impact)
-Weight

Feel (this part gets very subjective):
-On low impact shots, do you want springy and snappy feel or precise and linear?
-On high impact shots, do you want the blade to "envelope" the ball (ie Xiom describes it as "captive" feeling) or do you want to feel as if something is pushing hard against the ball (Xiom calls "repulsive").
-General feedback on impact (sharp or dull, crisp or marshmallowy?)
-Do you want to feel precisely where the ball contacts the blade, or do you want a more uniform sensation even when slightly miss-hit (ie large or small sweetspot)

I like the springs snappy feel on low impact shots and repulsive High impact

Some areas have to be sacrificed for emphasis on others. Again, tell us which areas are most to least important to you. ie large sweetspot usually means duller feel, high catapult means less linear etc.

As I’ve logged more hours with the N9 I can feel when I’ve hit the sweet spot or miss hit but I don’t fells like it’s necessary. With this blade, a lot of my FH battles result in missing the table long. I’m certain there’s technique to improve upon, but I want to ensure I’m critiquing myself with something in my hands I know should perform.

Browsing thread after thread I see no talk of what I have. While it is/was a popular blade I don’t see any talks of it now. I tend to find Mark V in about every conversation and blades are all over the dart board simply because there’s so many to choose from.


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 17:15 
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Good progress! Let's keep narrowing down the requirements:

1. Overall slower than N9: This is easy, the N9 is actually fairly thick, stiff, and fast for an all wood blade.

2. Springy low impact and reinforced/repulsive high impact: Unfortunately this is not possible. A hard outer ply plus soft core construction will give you the springiness at low impact whereas uniform construction, or with harder cores will produce the reinforced solid feeling on high impact. They are sort of mutual trade-offs, which is more important?

BTW, you can get some springy/snappy feedback by using fast bouncy rubbers on a hard solid blade. But those kind of set up would be much faster than what you have now.

Right now, I would recommend the Stiga OC, or Xiom Offensive S as a slightly slower N9 with similar playing properties. I have a Yinhe N11 incoming which should fit based on construction thesis, but I haven't tried that yet to say anything subjective, should definitely be slower than the N9.


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 19:50 
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Not familiar with the N9, but H3 and its variants are a little on the slow side for regular players. If you're an older teen or older, and are rapidly improving while under coaching, it might be appropriate (keep in mind the Chinese pros actually boost their H3), but for a <1800 level club player I think you'd do better with one of the more conventional Chinese sheets. Pretty much everything (Batwings, Corbor, Focus III Snipe, AK47, 868 but not Ckylin) is faster than H3. Yes, a player who can produce powerful shots (which requires training) will be able to achieve more power with H3, but I'd say most club players don't fall into this category. If you want to use H3 and are a "regular" player then maybe a faster blade (carbon, arylate, etc.) would be appropriate.

By the way.. stay away from the H6. That's a OFF+ (or might be OFF++) blade, even though it's all wood. When I tried it I'd push long and pop pushes up. I got it because Eacheng (China-Friend) was actually having auctions on ebay at the time and after several tries I got it for a very low price.. :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 22:48 
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Good progress! Let's keep narrowing down the requirements:

1. Overall slower than N9: This is easy, the N9 is actually fairly thick, stiff, and fast for an all wood blade.

2. Springy low impact and reinforced/repulsive high impact: Unfortunately this is not possible. A hard outer ply plus soft core construction will give you the springiness at low impact whereas uniform construction, or with harder cores will produce the reinforced solid feeling on high impact. They are sort of mutual trade-offs, which is more important?

I did not think that would be possible. I'd stick to a softer core I think.

BTW, you can get some springy/snappy feedback by using fast bouncy rubbers on a hard solid blade. But those kind of set up would be much faster than what you have now.

As my OP mentioned, I am the only counterpart to learning equipment and their characteristics. I would not be opposed to building something like this too, just to learn what a "real" fast blade plays like. After all, this a a hobby of mine and I enjoy tinkering and learning new things.

Right now, I would recommend the Stiga OC, or Xiom Offensive S as a slightly slower N9 with similar playing properties. I have a Yinhe N11 incoming which should fit based on construction thesis, but I haven't tried that yet to say anything subjective, should definitely be slower than the N9.

I'd enjoy hearing your feedback on the N11 vs N9


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2019, 23:02 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Not familiar with the N9, but H3 and its variants are a little on the slow side for regular players. If you're an older teen or older, and are rapidly improving while under coaching, it might be appropriate (keep in mind the Chinese pros actually boost their H3), but for a <1800 level club player I think you'd do better with one of the more conventional Chinese sheets. Pretty much everything (Batwings, Corbor, Focus III Snipe, AK47, 868 but not Ckylin) is faster than H3. Yes, a player who can produce powerful shots (which requires training) will be able to achieve more power with H3, but I'd say most club players don't fall into this category. If you want to use H3 and are a "regular" player then maybe a faster blade (carbon, arylate, etc.) would be appropriate.

By the way.. stay away from the H6. That's a OFF+ (or might be OFF++) blade, even though it's all wood. When I tried it I'd push long and pop pushes up. I got it because Eacheng (China-Friend) was actually having auctions on ebay at the time and after several tries I got it for a very low price.. :lol:

Iskandar


I am well out of my teens... Just turned 30, but I am an athletic build and get around really well. I am improving daily, spending at least an hour around the table practicing which is tough requiring someone on the other side. I'm actually debating checking into purchasing a robot but that's a totally different subject. I'm not married to H3, in fact, I'd like to try other equipment and see how it performs. I knew you'd be around... thanks for your input here and all the other threads!

I ordered 3 M8's with various rubbers (T88 Ultra Spin-729 Super FX-KTL XP), they're cheap enough and I can resell them to friends/others locally if I decide I don't want them.


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