OOAK Table Tennis Forum

As a developing all round offensive player, what's a better set up?
Slow blade + Fast rubber or Fast blade + slow rubber?
Or does this even make sense???

Slow blade + Fast rubber ´+1

Thank you!

Do you have any recommendations for a combo?

I agree, just don't get one that's too slow. Usually all round offensive players would get a blade around the Off- to Off range.

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That's a very good advice, with the big ball all is slowed.

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Hi,

Slow blade + fast rubber was my first thought ..

But, then, upon pondering a bit more, I was thinking - If it's for a developing playing, why not get a fast blade with slow rubbers, initially, and then, as the player develops further, only the rubbers need to be changed.. This way, once the player's skill improves by a couple of notches, and he/she requires an upgrade, only one component needs to be changed, not 2 wi

What say you'll to this line of thought ?

Based on the setups I have tried, and how I feel that they perform in a playing situation, I'd say ...

• A slow blade with fast rubber is less "responsive" on passive strokes and yields effect quickly as you increase striking power. This gives a greater range of possibilities, but also requires more practice/effort.
• A fast blade with slow rubber feels more consistent in responsiveness, so it is easier to get started with. May be a good approach for a developing player (as ootbs also suggests for different reasons). When you have built a consistent technique, adjusting to a radically different setup (should you want that) does not take a long time.

Logical reasoning may be that passive strokes only gets effect from the rubber, while a more active stroke employs the blade. My findings are contrary to that logic. Also, I have not been scientific about it. It is just my personal impression with the various setups I have tried (which have been quite a number over the last couple of years). Others may have experience more consistent with the above "logic".

For background, good players (international level) have told me that I am too eager to attack. I guess that makes me an offensive player. At near 60YO you would classify me as a veteran. My current setup is YinHe LQ-1 with Hurricane 3 FH and Friendship 802-40 BH.

Do not overthink it. Overthinking is my job. Now go and have fun!

Here's what I think (after trying all sorts of rubbers and blades). The blade matters a lot more than the rubber does. Stay away from the very fast blades, especially if you're a beginner or lower level player. Something rated ALL to ALL+ should be OK for most players. Lots and lots of blades like this, they're generally five ply all wood. You'll find there are blades you love, some you can't stand, even in this category - in many cases it's got to do with weight (I personally can't play with blades that weigh much more than 80g, and prefer ones that are in the 74-78g range) and other intangible properties such as "feel".

Rubber? Sure, there are differences, but the differences aren't nearly as obvious as it is between blades. The differences are actually pretty subtle - changing from a fast rubber to a slow one or vice versa (I usually have an expensive sheet on one side and a cheap Chinese sheet on the other) requires some re-calibration but when it's all said and done you really have to pause and THINK about what the differences are. So for beginners, especially those short of money - get some $5 Chinese sheets and you'll be able to play as well with them as with anything else. If you have money? Sure, do what I do - buy the occasional sheet of Evolution MX-P, Tenergy 05, even Dignics 09C - after all, you HAVE to see what you're missing, right? (I did, and was - so far - underwhelmed.. Sure, they were nice to play with, but.. at that price you expect them to improve your game by at least 50 points, right? I buy the occasional expensive sheet, and I play with them until they're old and grotty, but I have never bought the same expensive sheet twice - after all, who knows.. the NEXT sheet might be that magic 50 point sheet..)

In any case - do what Keme says - don't overthink it. Get something reasonable, and then play with it a lot rather than switching equipment all the time.

Iskandar

My way to adjust my custom racket during time is quite opposite. I selected a setup of couple rubbers that work for my style and try new rubbers infrequently (less then once a year). But it took years to understand the "ideal" rubbers for me.

I experiment more with blades as I did not determined what kind of blade is the best for my playing style yet. Slower or faster blade, softer or harder (but nothing extreme) makes insignificant difference in feel but practically does not improve anything.

I've had best results with medium blades (Butterfly Grubba) and slow/medium rubbers. Currently using a slow blade, mainly because for me I find it more fun. Fast blades are great, but often frustrating due to too many unforced errors.

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My whole set-up costs less than a sheet of Butterfly Dignics

I do agree that the blade choice is more important than the rubber choice. The biggest drawback I have experienced with slow bats and fast rubbers is that I could not block heavy slow loops very well. That combination seemed too spin sensitive to those shots. Yes, I found it very easy to loop from both wings, which worked well until I started playing against the mid distance loopers who would eventually spin me to death. I didn't experience those problems when I used a fast carbon blade and slower tensor rubbers. I also found that it was much easier to produce short, low and heavy spin serves with the fast blade, slow rubber combo. The opening loop was not as spinny, as the slower blade, fast rubber combo, but it was fast enough, in my opinion.

Don't know exactly how you hit and what is your style, or what style you are aspiring to play. But how about medium medium? Anything OFF- or All+ should feel fine. And maybe BTY Roxena? As you develop, you will have a better feel which direction you want to go

Nothing wrong with a slowish blade and fast tensor rubber especially if using LP or anti on BH provided the blade is fairly stiff. Older slow blades !ike TSP 2.5 & 3.5 have too much flex for the heavy ABS ball leading to a lack of control when hitting hard. Newer Def blades tend to have a carbon layer to stiffen them up so you can hit as hard as you want and create a lot of spin in the process

One clarification: normally the blade is related fast or slow and the rubber related more or less spin, of course some blades have more spin than others but the big amount of spin is done by the rubbers, the same for some rubbers that are fast than others but the big amount is done by the blade.

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