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PostPosted: 12 Feb 2009, 21:23 
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I'm so happy I found this thread. Thanks Seaton for bringing it back! I just use a few drops of olive oil on my Mars and an old Hurricane III and both recovered a younger look and felt grippier. It's easy, affordable and convenient.

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PostPosted: 13 Feb 2009, 01:19 
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quelis wrote:
I'm so happy I found this thread. Thanks Seaton for bringing it back! I just use a few drops of olive oil on my Mars and an old Hurricane III and both recovered a younger look and felt grippier. It's easy, affordable and convenient.


I wouldn't of wanted to eat that Mars :o :lol:

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PostPosted: 15 Feb 2009, 02:55 
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I have used Eucalyptus Oil to rejuvenate old tacky top sheets and also on grippy, non-tacky top sheets with good success. It also thoroughly cleans any built-up, hardened, glue, that got on the top sheets during repeated re-gluing. Diluted EO also works great as a routine cleaner.

.


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PostPosted: 24 Feb 2009, 04:14 
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I've been using lestoil to clean my rubbers when they need a good cleaning. Does a good job restoring tackiness & cleans off oils from your hand.

http://www.amazon.com/Lestoil-Concentra ... B0009PCPAY

I also picked a rubber cement pick up cleaner, for us messy glue'ers. It works awsome for getting glue off of the rubber or blade. So far its worked with several types of glue.
http://artistsupplysource.com/product.p ... ctid=20943

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PostPosted: 08 Mar 2009, 02:19 
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Has anyone tried automotive tyre polish?
I saw one today and mentioned features like cleans grime and dirt....just what we need.


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PostPosted: 08 Mar 2009, 02:42 
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Tyre polish is good if you want Anti. Helps turn LP into frictionless too. Not very legal...one of those things the ITTF is trying to stamp out. Does however protect your rubbers and keep them in nice (slippery) condition lol.

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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2009, 03:06 
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What is actually recommended?
A smooth surface or a rough one?
I believe a rough surface provides more friction and thereby gives more spin.
Please throw some light.


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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2009, 13:50 
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When you say rough, I assume you mean grippy, and yes this is generally better for generating spin. It also reacts to spin more as well, of course.

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I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! :twisted: Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2009, 14:26 
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If rough was better for spin, then short pips would generate more spin than smooth.

If the surface is very grippy, then smooth will give more grip, since it has a larger contact area with the ball... this is why it's better for generating spin...

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PostPosted: 11 Mar 2009, 02:19 
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tested the ultra Pure lamp oil on a very dead sheet of TG3 skyline. (basically paraffin Oil).

Damn thing is back to its original state!

The dullness is initially. I put a piece of paper on both sides and pressed it. Damn thing looks like it came off the factory floor and just as sticky.... I would try it on the H2 but too new for that.

Price,

cost me 1.57 for 3 oz (candle) which when turned upside down, drips enough but not alot. No need for a brush ;)

This is enough to do a crap load of rubbers!

http://www.lamplightfarms.com/lamplightlampoil.html

under oil catridges.

Available in walmart.


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PostPosted: 11 Mar 2009, 06:51 
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Let us know how it plays...?

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PostPosted: 11 Mar 2009, 07:33 
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haggisv wrote:
Let us know how it plays...?


That is going to be tonight.

The bad part is that this is a, umm, temp rubber.

My h2 died and I ran out of black sheets since I give my used sheets away to the local TT junior program. This is the only thing I had. the bad part is that I played exactly twice with teh TG3 and I HATED it.! Yes HATE! lol.

I am hoping it plays better on this slower blade (Donic Carbo Waldner) instead of my old one (Donic Black Devil CF).


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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2009, 05:19 
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Help!

I used some veggie oil on my Donic Jo Waldner, and the result were shocking for me. The rubber has domes just if it has been speed glued. I have primed this rubber with speed glue in December, and not taken it off since than. I wanted to change blades today, and I though: why not give it a go with veggie oil to clean it.
Any ideas how to get rid of this dome? It has been there for a few houres now, isn't very good in my opinion.

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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2009, 06:51 
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That a reverse dome, I would advice let it dry like that for another 24 hours before glueing it back on.
There will or might still be a little of the dome. That is option 1.
2 option, is to add the oil on the sponge side to even out the effect and it will flatten out. Glue it on but it would of stretch and grown causing big overhang. Dont cut, it will shrink back. After playing for awhile the effects worn out it should come back to normal.
It would have a tuned/boost effect. Mainly the sound will be louder.

Monkey

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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2009, 17:34 
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I will try option 2, but this means removing the glue layer, which is a pain in the ass at the moment. I will keep you updated


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