OOAK Table Tennis Forum

How does the skyline 3-60 soft and mid-hard play compare to the skyline 2 neo?

Where can you buy the soft skyline? Is this the wu yang version?

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Blog: "Holy Chtchet!" ⇝

Projects: Player Equipment Grid ⇝ Comprehensive Thin Inverted Chopping Rubbers Grid ⇝ Please send me corrections or new submissions

Skyline 2 neo has a harder sponge like H3 neo and a very tacky top sheet.

Skyline 3-60 mid hard (37-38 degrees) has a softer sponge (like Tin Arc) but the same top sheet although some says the top sheet is less tacky than skyline 2 neo.

Skyline 3-60 soft (34-35 degrees) has even softer sponge than Skyline 3-60 mid hard but the same top sheet

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...Rajd...
Setup 1:Blade: Stiga Clipper Wood FH: DHS Skyline TG2 Neo BH: Tuttle Beijing IV
Setup 2:Blade: Bty Innerforce ALC FH: Tenergy 05 BH: Tenergy 05-FX
Setup 3: Blade: DHS Hurricane Long 5 FH: DHS Hurricane 3 Neo BH: DHS Tin Arc 5 Mid Hard

Do you know how the 3-60 soft and mid hard plays compared to the 2 neo?

With skyline 2 neo you have to play with proper technique. Blocking becomes difficult if not boosted properly. Due to the tackiness you cant play with european counter style. You have to provide a little top spin like action to get the ball through. Due to the high throw close to table flips and counter top spins away from the table is superb. But remember all these depends on your technique.

3-60 soft and mid-hard does not have much difference except for the hardness of the sponge.
The softer the sponge the more the ball digs deeper and expect more catapult effect due to the neo sponge. But if you have used DHS National or Tenergy rubbers don't expect these commercial DHS Neo sponge to be as good as them.
3-60 soft and mid-hard will help you to lift the ball easily and spin quite a bit but remember the tackiness it will grab the ball and hence you have to open the face of the blade little more and give extra power.

Hope this helps. The opinions might differ from person to person.

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...Rajd...
Setup 1:Blade: Stiga Clipper Wood FH: DHS Skyline TG2 Neo BH: Tuttle Beijing IV
Setup 2:Blade: Bty Innerforce ALC FH: Tenergy 05 BH: Tenergy 05-FX
Setup 3: Blade: DHS Hurricane Long 5 FH: DHS Hurricane 3 Neo BH: DHS Tin Arc 5 Mid Hard

I find the TG2 Neo a much better spin+speed rubber compared to TG3-60 Mid-hard.

TG2Neo is definitely on a lot harder sponge than TG3-60 and much more tacky topsheet.

TG2Neo is for the loop/loop-drive player. It plays well either boosted or unboosted. And works fine with plastic ball.

TG2Neo is not very forgiving so having proper stroke and game is important.

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__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:

• TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
  1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
  2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
• 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
• TSP Versal :
  1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
  2. FH/BH-*blank*

Fun blades:

• Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
• Dr. Neubauer
  High Technology
  Cypress-Carbon(ST)
  ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7

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Hello,

can anyone please make a comparison of the 3-60 mid-hard to a boosted TG2 Neo (or TG3 Neo)?

Will the sponge of the boosted Neos be as soft as the 3-60? And what about the speed / catapult?

p.s.: if someone can tell how to boost a Neo-TG2 with Falco Long correctly, please send me a pm

Cheers, Andi

Skyline TG3-60 Mid-hard is like a softer version of Skyline TG2 Neo. Same tacky, bit faster than TG2Neo.
Skyline TG3 Neo is NON-TACKY. But it has tons of control. Plenty of Euro-rubber Grippy surface.

Boosting is simple.

Precautions while boosting:
1. Some rubbers react adversely to boosting. Watch out and test on a cut off piece before boosting.
2. Some rubbers NEED a very thin layer of water-based rubber glue BEFORE you start applying the many layers of booster. Test on cut off piece.
3. If you put too many layers the rubber can get damaged and sponge separates from topsheet.
4. Put less layers of booster, and re-boost with 1 or 2 layers after 1 month or 2 months of heavy use of the rubber.
5. Booster doesn't work on all rubbers, some brands work better with different rubbers. YMMV.

Short summary of boostering:
1. Apply evenly from the sponge center spreading evenly outwards with the applicator brush given until you have a thin even film of the oily booster glue-like substance.
2. Wait until it dries completely ( Falco tempo long takes about 24 hours to dry ).
2a. Best effect if you can apply the booster and press the rubber in-between a glass plate.
3. Apply as many layers on top of each dried out booster layers to get maximum effect. 2 - 3 layers should do for most rubbers.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:

• TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
  1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
  2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
• 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
• TSP Versal :
  1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
  2. FH/BH-*blank*

Fun blades:

• Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
• Dr. Neubauer
  High Technology
  Cypress-Carbon(ST)
  ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7

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What happens, exactly?

Iskandar

From what I've seen stuff like Donic Bluefire doesn't boost easily, you end up with a taco and topsheet either separates and comes apart or you end up with bubbles where the pips got unglued and now you have giant or tiny bubbles on the topsheet. So have to be extra careful. Tenergy becomes unplayable like a trampoline on drugs after more than 2 layers. Andro Rasant just behaves very weird like ball doesn't sink into the rubber long enough and again unplayable. Someone ruined their DHS National H3 sheet when heavily boosting instead of going easy with the booster. I have ruined one or two rubbers by using P.O. unevenly E.O. causes your rubbers to smell forever Orange oil doesn't boost but helps leave a gunky mess of glue on the sponge which helps when you need to remove glue buildup without problems but it is very very messy. God so many stories and horrors when boosting

Boosting isn't for everyone and does need some care and patience. Too much hassle and you have to repeat it every once in a while.

Most Chinese rubbers react very well to P.O. and Falco Tempo. Glass-plate drying is the best effect for boosting. Sealing boosted rubbers in Zip-Loc bags helps keep the booster in while letting the rubber calm down after several heavy layers of boosting. I get the best feeling after 1 or 2 weeks of not disturbing the rubber. Immediately glueing boosted rubbers tends to feel uncontrollable and weird to play.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:

• TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
  1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
  2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
• 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
• TSP Versal :
  1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
  2. FH/BH-*blank*

Fun blades:

• Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
• Dr. Neubauer
  High Technology
  Cypress-Carbon(ST)
  ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7

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Thank you very much for the information about using booster!

One more question: I'm playing an untuned TG2 Neo and in most cases, I like the rubber very much, espacially the enormous amount of spin.
But due to a lack in my footwork, some balls don't do the things I want....

So what is the best way to get a more forgiving version of the TG2 Neo? Booster? Or using the 3-60?

What do you suggest?

I had "control" problems with TG2Neo when I started using it for the first time. So to slow down I went and bought the older TG2 original which was excellent. But TG2 is a very slow rubber and meant for boosting. After 6 months it was too slow and so I boosted the TG2 and got it almost as fast as a H3 Neo sheet. But I felt at the time that unboosted TG2Neo is faster than H3Neo but I dont know why I had that impression.

Skyline TG3-60 is like a softer and a little bit faster than TG2Neo so I would first get TG2 original, play with that, boost that, play some more, then once TG2 is gone, buy TG2Neo play more, boost, play and then finally buy TG3-60 and don't worry with boosting it, play lots and lots, finally when its dying boost the crap out of it, the effect doesn't last more than 1 month on the TG3-60 is what I feel. Boosting TG2 series of rubbers is a hassle. They lose speed very quickly is what my experience was with these rubbers.

Get cheap rubbers, start with the slower ones, work your way as you gain more confidence. Boost to minimize having to buy new rubbers, play loads more with all the rubbers until you have your techniques grooved into you. After than I dont think it will matter what rubber you choose as it will be mostly a personal choice / feel / preference.

I haven't reached any level of consistency yet. But I can confidently say that given any inverted rubber racket, I can consistently loop at least 5 balls So far not progressed beyond that ! But with my own personal racket, I daresay Im more confident doing 10 top-spin loops. It doesn't sound like a lot, but that is how my TT skills are like

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:

• TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
  1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
  2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
• 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
• TSP Versal :
  1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
  2. FH/BH-*blank*

Fun blades:

• Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
• Dr. Neubauer
  High Technology
  Cypress-Carbon(ST)
  ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7

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Interesting indeed. I've never had any of this happen to me but I've never used more than two layers (except once, when I tried more on H3 and it became unusably fast).. and I've never tried "P.O." or "E.O." (what IS E.O.? ). I only tried booster on Rasant after it had been on the bat for about 2-3 months and was therefore dead. I've been speculating about the use of boosters on Tenergy and Tensors, and suspected they'd be unusable since they're already "boosted" at the factory, and I suppose I was right. I never used more than 2 layers because the rubber would curl up into a taco and I'd have to wait a couple days for the thing to uncurl sufficiently (it took WEEKS with Falco!) and I was impatient. I've got a nice collection of most of the commercially available "oils" from China, but I don't use them regularly, just when curiosity bites (or I have a Tensor that's getting old - haven't had any of those in a while, though I think it's time to try it on Tin Arc).

Iskandar

P.O. == Paraffin Oil ( Johnson's Baby Oil )
E.O. == Eucalyptus Oil ( double-distilled stuff that is waaay stronger )

And yep anything more than 1 or 2 layers of booster like Falco Tempo will end up with taco shells and some rubbers react so fast and so much even with just 1 layer of booster.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:

• TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
  1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
  2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
• 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
• TSP Versal :
  1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
  2. FH/BH-*blank*

Fun blades:

• Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
• Dr. Neubauer
  High Technology
  Cypress-Carbon(ST)
  ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7

==========================================================

Quick question about regular Skyline 3: it's supposed to be really tacky, right? I recently got a sheet from TT11 that's totally non-tacky. It came with the protective sheet of cling film on and the little DHS hologram so I'm pretty sure it's genuine (and also I don't think TT11 has any problems with fakes sneaking into inventory).

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Seeking joy and fitness in recreational modern defense.
My blog: "Two rubbers, one racket"
Kill the game against long Pimps with Coach Li!

Currently experimenting with short pips:
VKMO+ Gambler Volt-T + TSP Spectol Blue (1.5)
Joola CWX + Nittaku Hurricane III Pro Turbo Orange + Spinlord Gepard (1.8 )