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 Post subject: Adjusting to 563
PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 04:06 
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I have been strickly a smooth rubber player since I started playing about 3-4 years ago and just purchased 563 2.0 to go on BH for something different and to maybe help a old nagging injury heal up a little. Anyway what kind of stroke adustments and gameplay strategy can you advise me of with this rubber. When playing inverted I would play an allround game with BH. I would say I blocked the most, then looped or countered when in position, and only pushed close to the table if I had to. I would just like some heads-up to tide me over til the rubber arrives. Any comments are appreciated!

pongcrazy


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PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 07:56 
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You shouldn't have too much trouble adjusting to blocking, I think you'll find it quite effective. Hitting and looping against underspin should also be pretty easy. The main adjustment you'll have to make will be trying to counterhit topspin. Don't try to brush over the ball, you need to make more solid contact with the ball and follow through forward and up.

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PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 08:49 
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Hi I played 563-1 the raw rubber version of 563 for 2 years. I never found it easy to block or chop with.

It does, as Joo says, requires an soft upwards brush or roll to block with and you open the blade and whack any incoming balls with chop on them and they just go on.

I think the whack to chop and the soft roll ( especially to incoming serves ) are it's best shots. You will need a soft wrist to play the roll but it is very nice shot as it stays low travels slowly and is a little bit chopping often upsets good players timing.

It is not especially disruptive but I used it as an aggressive weapon.

Greggy

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PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 10:53 
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I have a Darker 7p2a-7t blade I was planning to use the 563 on. Is that too slow or fast a choice? I really don't have a much slower blade than that...... maybe Balsa Carbo X5??? Can't really tell how fast the Darker is because of the different "Hinoki" feel.


Last edited by pongcrazy on 16 May 2008, 10:57, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 10:56 
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Joo Se Kev wrote:
You shouldn't have too much trouble adjusting to blocking, I think you'll find it quite effective. Hitting and looping against underspin should also be pretty easy. The main adjustment you'll have to make will be trying to counterhit topspin. Don't try to brush over the ball, you need to make more solid contact with the ball and follow through forward and up.


More like a tennis stroke with a flatter, open blade hit???


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PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 11:27 
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Here is video of me hitting with LP but the stroke is the same and some of me rolling with LP then looping ( if you can call my Lopp a loop more like a slappy loop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKO4tdfiRYc

rolling

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAQcbhmM ... re=related

Gregg

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PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 11:35 
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Thanks for the video posts Greggy. Any comments on my above post on blade choice? What rubber was on your BH during the video? Thanks again!


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PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 11:39 
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When I played 563 I used the fastest softest blade Donic made an Implus 7.5, Lots of debate of blades but I always think for pips a soft core is best. I think you need to feel the ball in the blade so a medium hard top sheet with soft core is nice to work with, I am currently very very happy with my Dr N Firewall + btw.

Re Videos could you get a feel for the soft roll action then speed it up for a hard hit. The hard shots tend to be chop at the other end

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Gregg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 May 2008, 12:49 
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pongcrazy wrote:
Joo Se Kev wrote:
You shouldn't have too much trouble adjusting to blocking, I think you'll find it quite effective. Hitting and looping against underspin should also be pretty easy. The main adjustment you'll have to make will be trying to counterhit topspin. Don't try to brush over the ball, you need to make more solid contact with the ball and follow through forward and up.


More like a tennis stroke with a flatter, open blade hit???


Kind of...my main point was that you can't depend on the grip of the topsheet to brush loop the ball like you can with inverted. You need to engage the sponge.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 17 May 2008, 11:18 
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What can 563 on 2.0 35* soft sponge do well, and not do well in your opinion???


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PostPosted: 18 May 2008, 00:11 
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pongcrazy wrote:
Any comments on my above post on blade choice?


7P2A-7T is quite a fast blade and certainly the quickest of the 7P range. I would not suggest 563 at 2.0 with the 7T for blocking unless that player has very accomplished bh strokes.

You did not mention the sponge thickness of your inverted bh set out but I presume it was with the 7T? If it is, you may have better feel for blocking with the 7T but I won't know for sure.

I am just curious about the choice of 563 to "maybe help a old nagging injury heal up a little." If you were thinking of LPs to slow down the game a little, than why 563? 563 plays more like LPs than most or not all medium pips but it is not a LP.


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PostPosted: 18 May 2008, 03:48 
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Hello. I currently use Hammond Pro @ 2.2 on BH of the 7p-2a 7t. I have also used Higher III 2.2 on the BH of that blade. The comment about switching rubber to 563 was to be able to block and hit more because my injury inhibits my BH looping stroke right now.

I chose 563 because I wanted to try something different and I have played 802 short pips 2.0 and OX. I didn't want to use the shortys and didn't want to commit to a thin sponged LP, so I tried to choose something a little in between the two. I'm not sure if I made a good choice, but the 563 2.0 is on its way nonetheless.

Instead of the Darker blade I could use a Butterfly Balsa Carbo X5 if that would be a better choice. I guess I didn't really realize the Darker 7p-2a 7t blade was so fast, figured straight OFF maybe. It's hard for me to tell about that blade because it has such a different feel from my carbon blades......

Thanks for the post!


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PostPosted: 18 May 2008, 14:55 
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pongcrazy wrote:
Hello. I currently use Hammond Pro @ 2.2 on BH of the 7p-2a 7t. I have also used Higher III 2.2 on the BH of that blade. The comment about switching rubber to 563 was to be able to block and hit more because my injury inhibits my BH looping stroke right now.

I chose 563 because I wanted to try something different and I have played 802 short pips 2.0 and OX. I didn't want to use the shortys and didn't want to commit to a thin sponged LP, so I tried to choose something a little in between the two. I'm not sure if I made a good choice, but the 563 2.0 is on its way nonetheless.

Instead of the Darker blade I could use a Butterfly Balsa Carbo X5 if that would be a better choice. I guess I didn't really realize the Darker 7p-2a 7t blade was so fast, figured straight OFF maybe. It's hard for me to tell about that blade because it has such a different feel from my carbon blades......

Thanks for the post!


Since you are used to the 7T, just try it out when the 563 arrives; and then when you get some feel for the 563, switch the 563 to the X5 for comparison? 7T has a different feel from most blades, not only the carbon ones because it is a 7 ply honoki blade and not only any hinoki but kiso hinoki. The unique feel of kiso hinoki actually "traps" the ball on the blade momentarily longer and has a very slight dampening effect but that could mask its true speed. The 7T imho has a tremendous 1st gear; its a great blade.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: 20 May 2008, 11:41 
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Well......... the 563 35* had great control and I loved the way I could open up a backspin serve, I even tried it on both BH and FH. I am known to have very spinny brush loops with inverted and I also found out that I do with these pips. Unfortunately that only lasted about 15 minutes and 9 broken pips later. Guess this was a sign that I was born to use inverted. I loved looping with the pips while it lasted but I would have to by 2 new sheets each time I played. Great control and damn near perfect throw angle off the Darker blade. I guess I just don't know how to use them without breaking 'em. At the table pushes were a breeze and blocking was effortless, with a nice soft touch. No spin reversal on blocks but I could get close to a complete dead ball. Anyway thanks for all your help and suggestions with my short lived adventure. If those pips would last, I would loop both wings with them instead of inverted.

pongcrazy


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PostPosted: 02 Jul 2008, 05:31 
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pongcrazy wrote:
Well......... the 563 35* had great control and I loved the way I could open up a backspin serve, I even tried it on both BH and FH. I am known to have very spinny brush loops with inverted and I also found out that I do with these pips. Unfortunately that only lasted about 15 minutes and 9 broken pips later. Guess this was a sign that I was born to use inverted. I loved looping with the pips while it lasted but I would have to by 2 new sheets each time I played. Great control and damn near perfect throw angle off the Darker blade. I guess I just don't know how to use them without breaking 'em. At the table pushes were a breeze and blocking was effortless, with a nice soft touch. No spin reversal on blocks but I could get close to a complete dead ball. Anyway thanks for all your help and suggestions with my short lived adventure. If those pips would last, I would loop both wings with them instead of inverted.

pongcrazy


Sorry, I just found this. I found 563 very difficult to play with coming from inverted rubber. I found (in order from easiest to hardest) Joola Tango Ultra, 802-40, Snabb, 802-1, 802, 889, TSP Spectol, and 799 all much easier to play with than 563. How was your play with 802?

I've never broken pips with any of the above rubbers and I flat hit the ball extremely hard, so one of those might work if you liked how you could attack with 563 but you want something more durable.

799 and Joola Tango Ultra plays quite flat, Spectol, 889 and 802 have a little more arc. 802-1 and Snabb are more inbetween the two extremes.

I found I can block better with 802-1 instead of 802 as it plays just a little bit flatter. The bigger (though wider spaced) pips can generate more spin.

So don't discard pips if you like them just because 563 isn't durable. None of the above are really very tricky, but with short pips you should be tring to win the point with speed, not trying to provoke a mistake.

563 is so inbetween short and long pips it's hard to tell which it should be. The one player I knew who used it well would have only a tricky serve and a 3rd ball kill and then blocked the rest of the time.

A teammate tried 563 in 1.5 sponge and he couldn't generate any speed on his backhand using the brushing stroke he used with inverted. He could however generate plenty of speed with 802-40 with 2.2 sponge.

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