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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2021, 16:35 
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Hi everyone,

Long Time reader of this forum where i learn many things from my short double sided pips period, I decided now I can practice again to switch one pips to a flanti and apparently it seems that this here the place to be to have enlightments about this rubber. So i'm joining the conversation and ask about your help to help me please :) so let's jump into it

I would try to test a Storkraft and after reading the whole thread i have more doubts than I had before. I have a Clipper CC and a Palio TCT. I was thinking of glueing a sheet of 1.2 but it seems ,maybe, that it is not the best choice from what I "understood here". I would like to benefit a good spin reversal while having control :oops: . I am afraid that in 0.8 it will be fast and 1.6 it will be maybe a bit slow loosing the advantages with a thin sponge. And most of all which blade do you think is better for 1.2? I thought Palio TCT would be a viable option but Def-attack was not so enthuthiastic. Regarding the complexity of changing these kind of rubbers from a blade to anaother, if I could have the better option right from the beginning that will be great. Otherwise i can try 0.8 on the Clipper CC which is less fast but even like that I doubt having any much control. The fact the more important is the ratio spin reversal vs control. But maybe I am misleading myself :sweat:

Sorry for my english, it is not my native language and thanks for your help


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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2021, 21:35 
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Darth Pips
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Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH: DMS Storkraft 0.8
I recommend using the most hard, stiff blade that you have access to. I've been training with the Storkraft 0.8 on the fast and stiff Carbon Deluxe from DerMaterialspezialist. While it would seem like that setup would be really fast, it is amazing how much pace it can take off of hard shots. Believe me, I couldn't believe it myself at first, that to get the best effect on defense to get a fast hard blade, but it is true. If you are concerned about control, start out with the 1.2 version. I personally haven't used 1.6, but considering how well the 0.8 can take the pace off the ball, I would think that 1.2 would be as thick as you'd need, especially on a blade that might be a little slower.

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"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1719
Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH Rubber: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH Rubber: DMS Storkraft 0.8


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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2021, 23:03 
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ok thanks. As you say you can slow the pace down with these kind of rubbers which is the aim so I think I will try first the 0.8 thickness on the TCT that is quite stiff and if i'm not able to control enough i will go down on the ClipperCC which is also stiff and is a less faster.


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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2021, 23:41 
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Blade: Gerry Goriki Danshi
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BH: Dr. Neubauer A-B-S 2 Pro
Is it your first slick anti ? If yes you will be surprised by how slow it is.

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Goriki Danshi
FH - Donic Bluegrip C2 2.0mm
BH - Dr. Neubauer A-B-S 2 Pro 2.0mm

Setup 2
Blade - Siam custom
FH - Xiom Omega 7 Hyper max
BH - Barna Original Super Glanti 2.0mm green


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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2021, 00:38 
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I had briefly tested a Scandal 0.9 a very while ago and I found it very very slow, normal but too much for me at these days. So I did not pursue in this way with it. Now that my forehand is way better and have trained to twiddle I want a slick that really confuses the opponent by the slowness and mostly by the spin reversal.


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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2021, 03:58 
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Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH: DMS Storkraft 0.8
Storkraft will be a little faster than the Scandal. The spin reversal, though, is a lot more. It's still able to drop hard shots short enough so they would bounce multiple times before going off the end, it just takes practice.

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"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1719
Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH Rubber: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH Rubber: DMS Storkraft 0.8


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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2021, 16:40 
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Thanks, so here I go with a 0.8 thickness. Now i have to think right on which blade i will glue it before receiving the rubber. I will look around on the forum if there is somme feedback about the associations about flanti on CC and PCT. Than i will practice on robot before going back to train so in november :(


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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2021, 17:15 
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Blade: DHS Classic 08X
FH: Yinhe Jupiter II max
BH: Spinlord Degu II 1,5 mm
akathedude wrote:
Thanks, so here I go with a 0.8 thickness. Now i have to think right on which blade i will glue it before receiving the rubber. I will look around on the forum if there is somme feedback about the associations about flanti on CC and PCT. Than i will practice on robot before going back to train so in november :(
I would start with Clipper. I have used 1.2 Störkraft on regular Clipper and that is nice. But i am used to slow antis now, and I would consider that setup a little fast. So if.you are used to SP on BH than 0.8 on Clipper could work.

On TCT I have mostly used Barna SuperGlanti. Original version in 1.6 mm or the Absorber version 1.6 mm is nice. But I guess Störkraft should be good as well. But I would try a thicker version than 0.8. The 1.6 Störkraft is slower than 1.6 SuperGlanti. And the 0.8 Störkraft is faster than 0.8 SuperGlanti.

Good luck! And remember that it takes time to learn to play with fanti but it can be great rewarding.

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Getting better - health and game | Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack


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PostPosted: 19 Sep 2021, 01:47 
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With 1.2 on the TCT you still have good reversal ? I am asking because i am very intrigued about this blade which very shift and hard with 2 plies composite that seems a good point with flanti. Aside from that it seems a very fast blade

While i am thinking about it, do you have any trick to switch the rubber from one blade to another without damaging it or once is glued it s over? i was thinking to use the sticky face which go on the blade various time on piece of wood to mane her loose a bit of its stickyness. Sounds good to you or completely useless ?


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PostPosted: 19 Sep 2021, 05:47 
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Iron Pips
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Blade: DHS Classic 08X
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akathedude wrote:
With 1.2 on the TCT you still have good reversal ? I am asking because i am very intrigued about this blade which very shift and hard with 2 plies composite that seems a good point with flanti. Aside from that it seems a very fast blade

While i am thinking about it, do you have any trick to switch the rubber from one blade to another without damaging it or once is glued it s over? i was thinking to use the sticky face which go on the blade various time on piece of wood to mane her loose a bit of its stickyness. Sounds good to you or completely useless ?
Spin reversal is not worse on thicker sponges with Störkraft or Superglant but throw angle is higher and speed lower (ball stops more in the air) and attacking is worse.

Use a glue sheet. You can remove.some of the stickyness with a clean t-shirt (press it to glue sheet and remove it, repeat) before you attach the rubber to it. Usually it is more easy to remove the anti from the glue sheet than the glue sheet from the blade.

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Getting better - health and game | Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack


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PostPosted: 19 Sep 2021, 18:08 
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Def-attack wrote:
akathedude wrote:
With 1.2 on the TCT you still have good reversal ? I am asking because i am very intrigued about this blade which very shift and hard with 2 plies composite that seems a good point with flanti. Aside from that it seems a very fast blade

While i am thinking about it, do you have any trick to switch the rubber from one blade to another without damaging it or once is glued it s over? i was thinking to use the sticky face which go on the blade various time on piece of wood to mane her loose a bit of its stickyness. Sounds good to you or completely useless ?
Spin reversal is not worse on thicker sponges with Störkraft or Superglant but throw angle is higher and speed lower (ball stops more in the air) and attacking is worse.

Use a glue sheet. You can remove.some of the stickyness with a clean t-shirt (press it to glue sheet and remove it, repeat) before you attach the rubber to it. Usually it is more easy to remove the anti from the glue sheet than the glue sheet from the blade.


That is good to know. I thought spin reversal would be less while the sponge increases. I have not still ordered it and from what you say maybe i will begin with 1.2. It will be easier to make the ball double bounce still having a good amount of spin reversal. I am more planning to mess up a little the game and use most of the time the inverted twiddling to attack more than the flanti (which i will try to use but need practice)
Thanks for the tip with the t shirt. It is more easy that way


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PostPosted: 20 Sep 2021, 22:03 
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Darth Pips
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Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH: DMS Storkraft 0.8
From my experience spin reversal does decrease a little bit with thicker sponge. Since you are starting out with these types of rubbers, I think the 1.2 is an excellent choice for you. Gives you the best of both worlds, where it will be a little more controllable for you, a little slower but still give you very good reversal. Once you are comfortable with that, give the 0.8 a try. The guys I play with can't believe how much the 0.8 "sucks the pace off the ball" (their words). Honestly, I think the thickest sponge would be overkill in terms of being so slow as it would be difficult to get slower loops and no spin balls returned effectively. Plus, as noted, almost impossible to effectively attack with the thickest sponge, while I've become quite effective attacking with the 0.8.

_________________
"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1719
Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH Rubber: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH Rubber: DMS Storkraft 0.8


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PostPosted: 20 Sep 2021, 23:57 
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Blade: Gerry Goriki Danshi
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I can't agree more with Dwruck. I'm playing with Super Glanti 1.6, very good spin reversal, one full power topspin blocked and the opponent can't top again or if he does the ball will go to the net. The main problem with thick sponge combined to a not so fast blade is sometimes, when you block big topspin then the opponent pushes to your bh (usually goes long and a little high because he can't control the backspin after he experencied too many pushes where the ball met the net), either you're out of time to take the fh pivot or twiddle to attack with your inverted, you want to attack with your anti, but your attack will be too slow and inoffensive then you loose all the advantage you have built during the point.

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Goriki Danshi
FH - Donic Bluegrip C2 2.0mm
BH - Dr. Neubauer A-B-S 2 Pro 2.0mm

Setup 2
Blade - Siam custom
FH - Xiom Omega 7 Hyper max
BH - Barna Original Super Glanti 2.0mm green


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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2021, 00:21 
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finally I have ordered a 0.8, to have the maximum reversal. Even it can seem fast it remains a slow rubber. I will put it on my TCT and in the case it was too uncontrollable I will switch it to my Clipper.


Thanks all for the advices, now I'm waiting to receive it to test it in my basement before going back to the club


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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2021, 06:12 
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Darth Pips
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Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 03:59
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Location: St Francis, WI, USA
Has thanked: 98 times
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Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH: DMS Storkraft 0.8
Good luck, I hope you enjoy using it! Just be patient. The strokes and touch needed is unlike anything else you've probably ever played.

_________________
"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1719
Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH Rubber: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH Rubber: DMS Storkraft 0.8


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