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PostPosted: 18 Aug 2020, 06:23 
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Blade: Donic Defplay Senso V3
FH: Tibhar Evolution MXP
BH: Tibhar Grass DTecS
I have been practicing with the 2.1mm version on a Matador Texa. Mainly block but the more I get used to it the more I have been able to chop from mid-Court.
Excellent rubber. Starting to attack with it. Excellent for punch blocking.

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PostPosted: 17 Mar 2021, 05:10 
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Blade: Gerry Goriki Danshi
FH: Donic Bluegrip C2
BH: Barna Super Glanti
Little update. I tested a new custom blade from Siam (Zebrano-limba-limba-kurchi-limba-glass fiber-makore): makore for glanti. I associated it with a Spinlab Vortex 2mm yellow sponge. The control and the spin reversal was insane.
My theory for the best blade for glanti is nearly finished. Hard wood + glass fiber = better spin reversal than just hard wood outer layer.
Now I need to find if walnut-walnut-walnut-walnut-walnut-walnut-walnut (Nittaku Goriki hello :) ) is better than hard wood + glass fiber. So next I will test the Goriki.

btw Makore is nearly the same as walnut.

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Goriki Danshi
FH - Donic Bluegrip C2 2.0mm
BH - Barna Original Super Glanti 0.8mm red

Setup 2
Blade - Siam custom
FH - Xiom Omega 7 Hyper max
BH - Dr. Neubauer A-B-S 2 Pro 2.0mm


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PostPosted: 20 Sep 2021, 16:50 
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It seems odd to read that that the Storkraft works better on a Clipper Wood than on a Clipper CR which outer ply have received UV treatment which makes it harder. I would have thought the contrary I am a newbie in the flanti so I do believe what you experimented but it makes me hesitate to put it on my CR (on the thread of the Storkraft i told I had CC but it is in fact a CR non WRB). Maybe it will fit better in 1.2 on TCT.


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PostPosted: 20 Sep 2021, 17:33 
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Iron Pips
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Blade: DHS Classic 08X
FH: Yinhe Jupiter II max
BH: Spinlord Degu II 1,5 mm
akathedude wrote:
It seems odd to read that that the Storkraft works better on a Clipper Wood than on a Clipper CR which outer ply have received UV treatment which makes it harder. I would have thought the contrary I am a newbie in the flanti so I do believe what you experimented but it makes me hesitate to put it on my CR (on the thread of the Storkraft i told I had CC but it is in fact a CR non WRB). Maybe it will fit better in 1.2 on TCT.
You must know that these are very small differences. Changing the ball makes a bigger difference. But as a rule of thumb - a blade that is good for blocking with anti should be stiff. The outer ply should not be very hard if the inner plys are hard or if there is carbon in the blade. If inner plys are softer then the outer can be harder. Palio TCT is rock hard but the outer ply is rather soft. Another blade, Palio Conqueror, is almost identical but I thing the outer ply is harder. That blade kills the spin in blocks, sending back very nice and low blocks but with almost no spin.

There is not much logic in how different combinations of blades, sponges and anti top sheets work together. And what works for me may not work for you. This is not very good for our private economy... But very good for shops and producers.

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PostPosted: 20 Sep 2021, 18:33 
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so which is fine is hard "core" blade with outer plies softer and/or carbon or soft inside with outer harder. And the stiffest the best.
I completely forget that the ball is an important componenet of the spin reversal.
Thanks a lot


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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2021, 17:53 
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has anyone tried the Palio way 003 and/or Palio way 005?
The composition, at least, what I found seems interesting.

The first one seems to be a 8-ply wood with rosewood ueter layer and the second one 2xwalnut-3xayous core- walnutx2

By the way, is there a site thet refers the composition of the Palio blades? The only one I found is not very complete for this brand

https://stumpof.blogspot.com/p/stumps-blade-composition-list-kz.html

For the price that it costs the risks are smalls.


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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2021, 14:40 
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Blade: Butterfly vis
FH: Butterfly t05
BH: Butterfly newe long pips
Hi , for Matador, may I know I should buy carbon or pure wood version? thanks


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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2021, 22:55 
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Darth Pips
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Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH: DMS Storkraft 1.6
Either would probably work well, but my recommendation would be the carbon, as long as the faster blade pairs well with your forehand.

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USATT Rating: 1719
Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
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BH Rubber: DMS Storkraft 1.6


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PostPosted: 17 Nov 2021, 01:02 
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Blade: Butterfly vis
FH: Butterfly t05
BH: Butterfly newe long pips
dwruck wrote:
Either would probably work well, but my recommendation would be the carbon, as long as the faster blade pairs well with your forehand.

Thanks for your reply . How about the bloodhound compare with matador? Thanks


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PostPosted: 17 Nov 2021, 14:41 
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Blade: NevaGiva
FH: jahanam criminals
BH: YASAKA Mark 1.5
Why not?


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PostPosted: 17 Nov 2021, 14:42 
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Blade: NevaGiva
FH: jahanam criminals
BH: YASAKA Mark 1.5
This is an excellent, oversized blade for long pips users, especially for those playing close to the table. It’s ALL speed, and gives a lot of disruptive effect with the OX pimples. The blade has a “fired” appearance—I think it has been heat treated to give the outer ply a harder feel. It also has two layers that look like carbon called absorbercross, which helps to control hard hits received. Neva Giva is a Japanese company affiliated with Tibhar. I ordered the blade from World Rubber Market in Japan, the only place I could find it: https://rubber.ocnk.net/ The first version of this blade was brittle and prone to breaking, however, the current “strong” version now sold as of 5/2021 doesn’t have this issue. Specifications (penhold): blade face 163 x 161mm, 5.9mm thick, mine is 74g. Pairs perfectly with Tibhar Hybrid K-1 MAX and Dornenglanz OX, total weight 144g. Drives are quite powerful and very spinny, blocks are full of reversal. Dutch player Kento Nomura, a penhold inverted/LP twiddler, has been using this blade since mid-2019 with great effect and results—a very fun and effective style I am trying to emulate! You can check out his YouTube channel and review here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5Lj2oqfQRM Highly recommended!


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PostPosted: 17 Nov 2021, 22:56 
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Darth Pips
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Joined: 26 Jun 2007, 03:59
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Location: St Francis, WI, USA
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Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH: DMS Storkraft 1.6
I haven't used the Bloodhound blade, so I cannot give an honest answer to you on the comparison with the Matador.

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USATT Rating: 1719
Blade: DMS Carbon Deluxe
FH Rubber: Tibhar Evolution MX-P 1.9
BH Rubber: DMS Storkraft 1.6


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PostPosted: 18 Nov 2021, 05:31 
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Joined: 25 May 2020, 16:52
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Blade: Neva Giva Magic Wall
FH: Tibhar Hybrid K-1
BH: Saviga V OX
LOL minhblocker, I’m glad you liked my (jpenjunkie) Revspin review of the Nevagiva Magic Wall here:

https://revspin.net/blade/neva-giva-magic-wall.html

Based on dwruck’s past suggestions, I purchased the Matador several months ago to give anti a try.  I’m likely the only person on this forum that owns both the Magic Wall and the Matador, so here are my thoughts.  The Matador is OFF- and I paired it with DMS Scandal in 0.9 and have only used LPs with the Magic Wall.  My best guess is that the slower ALL-speed Magic Wall wouldn’t be as effective with most German antis, as the OFF- Matador is really slow on the Scandal side.  Recently I was doing blocking practice with Magic Wall and 955 OX LP and for curiosity I switched over to the Matador and my first several balls with the Matador didn’t go over the net.  My T-11s (OFF+) paired with the slowest OX pips I’ve tried (Spinlord Stachelfeuer) is certainly faster than the German anti also.  It’s safe to assume blocks would definitely be lower and slower with a German anti vs. any LP, regardless of blade choice.  I can imagine the Magic Wall would be really slow, but playable, once you adjust your technique.  With that said, I think you’d want a harder outer ply than what Magic Wall offers for max reversal to optimize the anti.  If you decide to try an anti anyway, please let us know how it goes.
 


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