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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2021, 14:16 
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Thanks, for the moment i read a lot and watch many videos. That way i can understand best how to handle and the variety of strokes that exists.

For those who use flanti, have you sealed your blade?


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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2021, 16:04 
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akathedude wrote:
Thanks, for the moment i read a lot and watch many videos. That way i can understand best how to handle and the variety of strokes that exists.

For those who use flanti, have you sealed your blade?
Yes! Seal the blade, both sides and around the edge! TCT is fragile and the top ply can crack very easy. Also, the anti is more easy to remove when blade is sealed.

If you want tonremove the anti, use a food knife or similar to get in between blade and anti and the slowly lift the anti from the blade, start in one "corner" and work yourself through the whole blade. You can grab the anti amd pull it off the blade but Storkraft is not very well attached to the sponge and the sponge is very fragile, especially in 0.8.

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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2021, 17:12 
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Def-attack wrote:
akathedude wrote:
Thanks, for the moment i read a lot and watch many videos. That way i can understand best how to handle and the variety of strokes that exists.

For those who use flanti, have you sealed your blade?
Yes! Seal the blade, both sides and around the edge! TCT is fragile and the top ply can crack very easy. Also, the anti is more easy to remove when blade is sealed.

If you want tonremove the anti, use a food knife or similar to get in between blade and anti and the slowly lift the anti from the blade, start in one "corner" and work yourself through the whole blade. You can grab the anti amd pull it off the blade but Storkraft is not very well attached to the sponge and the sponge is very fragile, especially in 0.8.


I will do that, I didn't know the top plys of the TCT was fragile. Maybe seal it a little more the face which will receive the anti. Do you think i can use woodwork seal based? I read on the net that someone use it even if it is not specific.
To remove the rubber i have found on youtube a guy who shows how to remove it and he does exactly as you say.


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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2021, 17:23 
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akathedude wrote:
Def-attack wrote:
akathedude wrote:
Thanks, for the moment i read a lot and watch many videos. That way i can understand best how to handle and the variety of strokes that exists.

For those who use flanti, have you sealed your blade?
Yes! Seal the blade, both sides and around the edge! TCT is fragile and the top ply can crack very easy. Also, the anti is more easy to remove when blade is sealed.

If you want tonremove the anti, use a food knife or similar to get in between blade and anti and the slowly lift the anti from the blade, start in one "corner" and work yourself through the whole blade. You can grab the anti amd pull it off the blade but Storkraft is not very well attached to the sponge and the sponge is very fragile, especially in 0.8.


I will do that, I didn't know the top plys of the TCT was fragile. Maybe seal it a little more the face which will receive the anti. Do you think i can use woodwork seal based? I read on the net that someone use it even if it is not specific.
To remove the rubber i have found on youtube a guy who shows how to remove it and he does exactly as you say.
Ordinary woodwork or furniture sealing is good, use a blank one.

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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2021, 18:09 
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Ok, i will buy one because mine is light beige


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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2021, 20:52 
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akathedude wrote:
Ok, i will buy one because mine is light beige
I mean that it should not be matte, it should have high glossiness, making the surface shiny.

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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2021, 02:14 
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Is there any reason to prefer high glossiness? Does it seal better, increases reversal?


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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2021, 06:30 
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akathedude wrote:
Is there any reason to prefer high glossiness? Does it seal better, increases reversal?
Nah, that is probably not very important (compared to other factors) It may get harder and perhaps increase spin reversal, but that is not 100% sure ....

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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2021, 16:46 
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Def-attack wrote:
akathedude wrote:
Is there any reason to prefer high glossiness? Does it seal better, increases reversal?
Nah, that is probably not very important (compared to other factors) It may get harder and perhaps increase spin reversal, but that is not 100% sure ....


For what it costs and if the results are satisfying with that i will use a glossy one :up:


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PostPosted: 23 Sep 2021, 17:07 
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Blade: Stiga Carbonado 190
FH: Donic Bluestorm Z2
BH: Dr Neubauer ABS
Is there anyone who has tried both Storkraft and Vortex? What differences did you find between the two red sponges? Is Vortex (2.3mm red sponge) far slower than Storkraft (1.6mm sponge)? Thank you in advance! :up:

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PostPosted: 23 Sep 2021, 17:24 
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Pongista92 wrote:
Is there anyone who has tried both Storkraft and Vortex? What differences did you find between the two red sponges? Is Vortex (2.3mm red sponge) far slower than Storkraft (1.6mm sponge)? Thank you in advance! :up:


The red sponge of Vortex and Störkraft are more or less the same. The top sheet of Vortex is probably a little slower than Störkraft, so I believe Vortex in 1.2 mm with the red sponge is a little slower than Störkrft in 1.2 mm. I can't even imagine how one can play with Vortex 2.3 mm :o .

But there are other sponges from Spinlab that is better if you want more spin reversal. Their newes yellow one gives lower arc and perhaps better spin reversal. I think it works god in 1.5 mm (1.0 may be little fast, and 2.0 a little slow).

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PostPosted: 23 Sep 2021, 17:45 
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Def-attack wrote:
Pongista92 wrote:
Is there anyone who has tried both Storkraft and Vortex? What differences did you find between the two red sponges? Is Vortex (2.3mm red sponge) far slower than Storkraft (1.6mm sponge)? Thank you in advance! :up:


The red sponge of Vortex and Störkraft are more or less the same. The top sheet of Vortex is probably a little slower than Störkraft, so I believe Vortex in 1.2 mm with the red sponge is a little slower than Störkrft in 1.2 mm. I can't even imagine how one can play with Vortex 2.3 mm :o .

But there are other sponges from Spinlab that is better if you want more spin reversal. Their newes yellow one gives lower arc and perhaps better spin reversal. I think it works god in 1.5 mm (1.0 may be little fast, and 2.0 a little slow).


Hi Joachim! Thank you for your detailed answer. :)
I used in the past the red 2.3mm sponge with ABS and yes is too slow, even on Carbonado. :lol:
You intrigued me with the yellow sponge...i know personally Daniele (the guy behind Spinlab), i will order him one 2mm thick. I need control! :D

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PostPosted: 23 Sep 2021, 19:41 
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Tried both Störkraft and Vortex. Störkraft worked better for me. Control a little bit lower, but better in everything else and way better spin reversal.

Tried Vortex 1.2 red sponge, and 2.0 yellow sponge. 2.0 yellow sponge was the best. Better spin reversal, better control when blocking hard topspin and better attacking capabilities. I think it is mandatory to play Vortex with a thick sponge. Because of the thin topsheet and short pimple length, with a thin sponge, the main problem was when I tried to block hardtopspin, every time the ball got to the wood, resulting in very bad control of the ball and 0 spin reversal.

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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2021, 03:05 
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Hi,

Now that I have received my rubber I am almost setup. Finally I will begin on my Clipper CR but I have another question. I have sealed my blade with two layers. While the sealing is drying I was reading the instructions about the glue sheet. For what I understand I have to put glue the blade and what I find awkward is that I have put one layer too on the sticky foil (the side which will go on the blade). Am I correct? I am asking that because I found a video where the guy just put glue on the blade

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qoMPlxqDMJQ


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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2021, 03:29 
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akathedude wrote:
Hi,

Now that I have received my rubber I am almost setup. Finally I will begin on my Clipper CR but I have another question. I have sealed my blade with two layers. While the sealing is drying I was reading the instructions about the glue sheet. For what I understand I have to put glue the blade and what I find awkward is that I have put one layer too on the sticky foil (the side which will go on the blade). Am I correct? I am asking that because I found a video where the guy just put glue on the blade

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qoMPlxqDMJQ


Attach the gluesheet to the sponge of the anti. Then remove the other protection sheet of the glue sheet and put some water based glue on it. Then put some water based glue on the blade and let them dry. The attach the rubber (with glue sheet and glue) to the blade. The water based glue makes it easier to remove the rubber without wrecking it. But like I have said before, it may be more easy to first remove the anti from the glue sheet (that is glued to the blade) and then remove the glue sheet. IT is also possible to glue the anti to the blade without glue sheet, just very thin layers of water based glue.

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