OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Does it happen to you ? I trained with a 1900 player, sometimes when he looped very hard on my SG, I had the feeling I returned a no spin ball and he was able to loop again very easily. I think he looped so hard that the ball reached the wood and therefore killed the spin. But if he did the same loop and I had the time and the guts to dampen the loop (wrist very loose, racket coming towards me when blocking) I was able to have a very spinny block, and it was impossible for him to loop or push after.

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Viscaria Super ZLC
FH - Tuttle G20 President
BH - Slick antispin

It happens that.the sponge bottons out and the ball contact is more of a wooden feeling. An extra glue sheet can prevent this if you don't want a thicker sponge. But as long as you place the ball on he table it should not be a problem, variations in spin is normally a good thing.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

Is it a good thing to create a lot of tension when applying a glue sheet ? So much tension that the rubber became so hard it basically became a piece of glass. It seems to increase the speed, also it seems to kill a bit of the spin reversal (not sure, need more testing in this area)

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Viscaria Super ZLC
FH - Tuttle G20 President
BH - Slick antispin

It depends on blade and sponge. And if you use glue sheet or not. With SG I can't notice much difference with tension.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

Yesteday I partcipated in a tournament. I played great overall, beat some player 200+ points above me, only lost to better ranked player.
I mainly used the Victas 3* ball, and this is by far the best ball for spin reversal I ever tried, Nittaku 3* premium comes second. Most of my blocks looked exactly like this: https://youtu.be/NkkxRf6o-Sg?t=63 (1:03) When they tried to push against my block, the ball ended on their side of the table.
A ball can change everything. If you have the opportunity to play with your favourite ball, do it.

The Super Glanti I played with is ~4 months old, I clean it regularly with something very close to the dms cleaner. Mounted on the red sponge on a Goriki Danshi. I can't imagine how much spin reversal I will get with a brand new topsheet.

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Viscaria Super ZLC
FH - Tuttle G20 President
BH - Slick antispin

Barna Original SUPER GLANTI ATTACK test:

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My "dirty" antispin youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/AndreaAschi

Excellent Andre... as always... i'm a big fan of yours..
What's your ranking ? who was the most famous you ever played against?

how do you compare yourself to balaban or luka? I mean what do they do better than you in your opinion?

At the moment I'm in the 400th position of the Italian ranking (my best is 130th).
I played against several top italian players. They are not famous but some have been cadet European champion (team)

Keep in mind that I'm an amateur and Luka is an international player. He does what I do but with 10x more speed, quality and better ball placement and better footwork. There is a world of difference.

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My "dirty" antispin youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/AndreaAschi

At least for me, watching you play more fun.. And more educational too. I learn more from your videos than any other anti-spin player. Looks like you got more slicks under your sleeve..

If you can show us in slow motion ( or share your experiences in writing ) as to how you do those blocks to maximize the spin reversal with those frictionless antis, that would be great.
Do you keep your wrist soft, do you absorb the energy on the ball, do you use the rubber or the wood more in the contact? etc..

And have you ever tried, LP's? Looking at your hyuk style chop capability, it looks like you should be able to use LPs as well.

Here is a clip where I try a drill with passive blocking first with long pimple ox (Sternenfall) on a balsa blade (Re-Impact Le Géant), then the same drill with Barna Super Glanti 1.6 mm on a Palio TCT, and then again with the balsa blade but with Dr Neubauer Trouble Maker ox on BH.

It is rather difficult to change blade from a very light balsa blade (67 gram) with lp ox to the 90 gram rock hard Palio TCT, so there are many mistakes...

My opponent uses a normal Victas rubber on BH and Spinlord Keiller 1.2 mm on FH.

https://youtu.be/D9TElkarbQc

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

I enjoyed watching these clips.

How was it for you using the LP vs anti. As a viewer it looked easier to control the LP but easier for your opponent too. The anti reversal was way higher.

Keep up the good work.

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Tango Ultra 2mm black, DMS Storkraft 1.6mm red, DMS Invictus
Well done bat!

That about sums it up
But I am more used to anti, I have been using it for a long time (although changing setups line that and blocking at the wrong position kind of messed things up). This was almost the first time I tried blocking with LP like that. And my opponent is very used to me with anti, but not so used with me playing LP ox... Not sure if that makes anti better or worse than what was show in the clip though

But blocking with anti gives much more spin reversal but it is also more predictable for an experienced opponent. But putting more preassure on the ball at blocks is difficult, here the lp is clearly better.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

I would say, though, that while the amount of spin reversal from an anti will be predictable for an experienced player, there are many other tools to combat smart opponents. Primarily placement. The value of being able to easily vary the depth and placement of shots is very powerful. While you may not be able to put "pressure" on them in a traditional manner, being able to drop the ball short, then deep, then short again puts a ton of "pressure" on their footwork and ability to re-loop comfortably.

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"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1725
Blade: Stiga Cybershape Carbon
FH Rubber: Butterfly Tenergy 19 2.1
BH Rubber: Dr Neubauer ABS3 1.5

Good point Darth..
This in turn says or sums up that if you are playing with anti against better players, use an anti that gives you the highest amount of control ( AS OPPOSED TO ), the highest amount of spin reversal. With that in mind, the game play should be all about placement and setting up attacks after running them around and catching them off balance. If one tries to pay more attention to trick them by spin reversal, he'd be betting on the wrong horse. Correct?

If this is correct, then what which anti at what mm and which blade would offer the highest and deadly control? Glanti will surely be out the door. No?

However, having said that, one should also clarify what we mean by "experienced players". Looking at Andre's opponents, he surely plays with a ton of "experienced players" but even they are tricked by the extreme spin reversal. But I think in his success, the money comes from his forehand as opposed to the anti on the back.

When I played with anti ( before switching to LP ) I used to keep playing with the backhand and try to win the games with either placement or spin reversal. But this was surely not enough. FH is the real deal when it comes to anti I think.

I think you are correct, up to a certain point you can win matches on spin reversal alone and waiting for the opponent to miss, but at a certain level you will get players who are too smart to just keep looping endlessly and will adjust tactics.
As I've noted before, the spin reversal aspect of a frictionless anti is more effective against higher level players that spin the ball more and hit it harder. So there is a positive to having one with higher reversal. We see Amir, Andrea and others playing very high level players and winning points thanks to the reversal and speed reduction.
As a result, my personal opinion is, I wouldn't go with something that is purely all about control with little reversal. Having that amount of spin reversal puts pressure on your opponent to change their style if they are a looper. If the rubber is too oriented around control and pace with little reversal, it is relatively easy for good players to adjust to that.
That being said, your comment about the forehand is excellent, and very important to remember. Regardless of how good the reversal is and how good you are at moving your opponent around, someone playing with these rubbers should always, in my opinion, be using these with the primary strategy of using it to set up an attack. Whether that's step around to loop, twiddle and attack with backhand, or flat hit with forehand, you should primarily be looking to turn your defense into offense. That way if you do get a point straight away from spin reversal, great. But if you don't, you are still ready to capitalize on a weaker ball they might give you as a result. If you fall into the trap of just sitting back and waiting, you become passive and one dimensional. And sometimes that works. But to gain any consistency of winning you need multiple tools.
The reason I am a big fan of the Storkraft 1.6 is that it gives me many tools. It offers massive reversal. It offers an extremely slow speed so that I can move my opponent around the table, side to side and in and out. It really forces my opponents out of their comfort zone, giving me a lot of opportunities to get my attack in play and control the point.

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"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1725
Blade: Stiga Cybershape Carbon
FH Rubber: Butterfly Tenergy 19 2.1
BH Rubber: Dr Neubauer ABS3 1.5