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PostPosted: 04 Jul 2019, 22:17 
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Blade: Hallmark Combination
FH: Tenergy 64
BH: Grass D Tecs OX
What would be the best way to stick OX D Tecs, adhesive or water-based glue?


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PostPosted: 04 Jul 2019, 22:20 
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Blade: Ross Leidy Sotto Voce
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BH: Dr Neubaeur: Gangster OX
Water based glue


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PostPosted: 04 Jul 2019, 22:49 
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Gluesheets are perhaps easiest to attach, but can be hard to remove without tearing the rubber or chipping the blade.

Water based glue is fine. Apply to rubber and blade. Watch out for rubber curling up on itself, and make sure the surfaces are properly dried before you attach (you may need to wait 15 minutes or more).

Rubber glue works in most cases, but be warned: It is not strictly legal. You need to wait for a week or three before attending any major tournaments. Otherwise you will fail the VOC tests.

If you want to try rubber glue, just apply it to the blade, not the rubber. Let it dry (will only take a minute) and attach the rubber. Press or tap the rubber surface to make the glue joint settle properly.

Not all rubbers attach well with rubber glue on blade only, but if you apply that glue to an OX sheet it will curl like crazy. Doable, but you need to pin it down somehow (attach it to a bottle or rolling pin perhaps). I have ruined quite a few sheets of LP before I realized that I didn't need glue on the rubber...


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PostPosted: 05 Jul 2019, 09:56 
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Blade: XVT Balsa Carbon 10mm all
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BH: Globe 979 OX
I use Walmart rubber cement, just applied to the blade, almost never have a problem.

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Panda Drive / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max / Play right-handed
XVT balsa carbon 10mm / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Globe 979 Long Pips OX / Play Left-handed shakehand
Stiga Def Wood / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH GD CC LP OX .. Play Left-handed
Cpen SOS Wood / 4H 729 802-40 2.0 / BH GD Talon use righthanded shakehand grip
HARDBAT / Shakehand Hock 3 ply / Friendship Dr Evil OX .. Play Right-handed


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PostPosted: 05 Jul 2019, 10:24 
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I'm convinced glue sheets are the way to go. But you need the RIGHT glue sheets, the ones with a strong side and a weak side. I think they're sold under several brand names, Donic and Xiom around here. Not particularly cheap, but if you apply it correctly (weak side towards the blade and strong side towards the rubber) it'll allow you to easily move the rubber from blade to blade without using any additional glue. All the horror stories I've heard have to do with Chinese glue sheets.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 05 Jul 2019, 13:36 
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This is how I glue my OX Long Pips.

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Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide


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PostPosted: 05 Jul 2019, 18:07 
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iskandar taib wrote:
I'm convinced glue sheets are the way to go. But you need the RIGHT glue sheets, the ones with a strong side and a weak side. I think they're sold under several brand names, Donic and Xiom around here. Not particularly cheap, but if you apply it correctly (weak side towards the blade and strong side towards the rubber) it'll allow you to easily move the rubber from blade to blade without using any additional glue. All the horror stories I've heard have to do with Chinese glue sheets.

Iskandar



Very true !!! I did try Chinese glue sheets.Horrible!!! . I now use Silhouette double sided adhesive sheets.Very very thin glue sheets and very cheap, not strong adhesive sheets at all , you can find them at a stationery store .

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silhouettes-ME ... B008QHBL8Y

https://www.silhouette101.com/archives/ ... d-adhesive

https://www.silhouetteschoolblog.com/20 ... esive.html


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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 01:16 
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Blade: Tsp Black Balsa 3.0
FH: t05 1.7boosted
BH: 388d ox
There are glues that stay tacky when dry, apply to wood only;these types stay on the blade if you remove the ox lp which is great for experimentation of ox lp''s and allows repositioning if it goes wrong, these are cheap from arts and crafts stores and a small bottle lasts ages

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Modified Yin-He T2 Tenergy 05 fx 1.9/388d ox


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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2019, 03:19 
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Any brands to suggest? I suppose there's Innoglue, which, when applied to the rubber, turns it into a post-it note, and allows for easy removal and re-application onto another blade.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2019, 10:49 
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Blade: Hallmark Combination
FH: Tenergy 64
BH: Grass D Tecs OX
Many thanks to all, I'll test everything that was said here.


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PostPosted: 08 Jul 2019, 06:48 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Any brands to suggest? I suppose there's Innoglue, which, when applied to the rubber, turns it into a post-it note, and allows for easy removal and re-application onto another blade.

Iskandar

Iskandar for the last few years have used Leeho 2 in 1 glue marker ,seems hard to find now,I will look for alternative soon
.

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PostPosted: 27 Sep 2019, 10:14 
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I do a lot of gluing of different sheets of LP's. The process I use works well. Most are OX. I just finished gluing a bat and have taken a series of photos for this forum. Looks like I can only put one photo up though.
Get a sheet of stiff, clear plastic. The clear plastic on shirt boxes is ideal. Cut it so the width is about 6mm wider than the rubber. Lay the rubber with pimples touching the clear plastic. Attach 6 small bulldog clamps to the edge of the rubber and to the plastic sheet. One on each corner of the rubber and one in the centre of each edge.
Glue the bat.
I use VOC glue. It reacts strongly with the rubber and is very difficult to glue so if you have a water based glue it is easier. OX is far more difficult to glue than sponge rubbers. You have to be more careful.
Next with minimal glue on the brush, cover the sheet with glue. Keep it thin. Do not glue the edges because they do not get stuck to the bat and you need to hold them to roll the rubber onto the bat.
The thinner rubbers will try to curl severely. As the chemical reaction proceeds the rubber will distort as it contracts due to the molecular reaction of the solvents with the rubber. The clips hold it in place.
Leave it a minute or so until most of the solvents evaporate and the rubber settles down. It must look dry.
Readjust the rubber on the plastic so it sits flat. Then take the plastic in both hands and roll the top upwards. Align it squarely on the bat near the handle. This is the critical part. Fail to do this correctly and you will destroy your rubber. Get about 3-5mm of rubber to stick in a straight line near the handle across the bat. Make sure the rubber logo centres with the centre of the handle. There is no turning back after this. Once this part is square the rubber will go on squarely so do not try to realign it or change direction after this point.
Looking through the plastic you then can use a rolling motion to roll while pressing the rubber onto the bat. Roll it squarely onto the bat and keep an even pressure and you will not get air bubbles.
Press on the plastic to make sure it is seated and remove the clamps and plastic. I always use a clamp press with gentle pressure to fix the bond. Leave pressed for an hour.
NOTES: With OX you need to keep the glue thin. Thicker coverage leaves a greater amount of residual rubber (glue) between the sheet and the bat and very good players may notice this. Plus you are going for a chemical bond and minimal glue is required for this reaction. Putting excessive glue on means you are adding more solvents which means more penetration of the solvents into the top sheet. Not good. Remember these solvents are formulated to dissolve the rubber adhesive and the top sheet is also a rubber compound. The solvents are there to hold the glue in suspension and you want them out as quickly as possible after you have spread the dissolved glue.
With sponge you have more leeway. The reaction is more of a contact bond. So you don't need to clamp the sheet onto plastic. If you are worried about VOC sniffers then allow the glue to dry completely before pressing it on. This evaporates the solvents fairly well as you don't want them absorbing into the sponge. All contact adhesives work best when the glue is dry. We say it must be "tacky". If left too long it starts to “cure” and will lose its bonding effect.
Always seal the wood. This allows you to use less glue and reduces the solvent penetration into the wood. If you are using your own sealer make sure it does not contain ingredients that will bond with the glue solvents or you will risk creating a strong bond that may tear your sponge when you replace it. If you get sponge particles left on the bat after removing a rubber, sandpaper down to the wood and re-seal it. Don't use a scraper. Give your sealer 2 days outside to cure and to completely release its solvents. A bit of sunlight speeds this up.
If you get bubbles you can start again but you will need an extra set of hands to keep the rubber straight as you remove it and re-sticking it is very difficult because stretching causes distortion of the rubber. Do not apply any more glue to the rubber only to the bat. There is a greater concentration of VOC's in the air pocket of a bubble and these react with the top sheet causing distortion in that area so once you get bubbles you will rarely fix the top sheet properly. A needle may help a bit.


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PostPosted: 27 Sep 2019, 12:41 
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Thanks MalR, very useful, and welcome to the forum!

You can attached as many pictures as you like, I don't think there is a limit.

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PostPosted: 27 Sep 2019, 15:53 
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MalR wrote:
I do a lot of gluing of different sheets of LP's. The process I use works well. Most are OX. I just finished gluing a bat and have taken a series of photos for this forum. Looks like I can only put one photo up though.


There's another guy who posted recently who does this, except that he puts a glue sheet on the clear plastic. This way, the glue sheet sticks onto the top of the pips and helps when it's time to roll the rubber onto the blade. The plastic sheet plus glue sheet easily detaches from the top of the pips afterwards. Then you put a piece of release paper that you saved from the glue sheet over the glue sheet to keep the dust off so you can use it the next time.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 10 Nov 2019, 19:03 
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Blade: Joola Carbon Pro
FH: LKT Rapid Speed 1.8
BH: Tibhar Grass D'tecs - OX
Tried to glue an OX D'tecs with waterbaed glue yesterday, worked like a charm!
2 pair of hands made it a whole lot easier to place on the blade.

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