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PostPosted: 21 Nov 2019, 08:22 
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I play at a non-profit club and try to help out a bit. The tables get dirty very quickly with sweat and dust. I was using a Frosch baking soda cleaner, but it has gotten a bit expensive. Looking for tips on how to and what cleaning agents to use for cleaning 6-7 tables once a week. Not really looking for table tennis - specific table cleaners because the ones I have seen are ridiculously expensive to clean this many tables this often. Any help is appreciated.


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PostPosted: 21 Nov 2019, 10:52 
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A little dish soap, a little ammonia and water? That would be a general purpose glass cleaner, I suppose. I'd worry about eventual damage to the finish since it's water-based, however.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 21 Nov 2019, 13:01 
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I never understood why sweat needs to find its way on the table. Those dirty, dirty table rubbers...

My old club just uses Windex. No issues to report.


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PostPosted: 21 Nov 2019, 16:33 
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If the surface is badly damaged, clean with that Windex and if needed isopropyl alcohol.

I tried using Wax-on / Wax-off Wood polish on a Club-model Rollon Stag table and the surface got very shiny but sticky. Next time I will try using a Rub-on PU water-based varnish and see if I can't get a "glassy" smooth surface finish. :)

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Backup C-pen blades:
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PostPosted: 21 Nov 2019, 17:51 
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man_iii wrote:
If the surface is badly damaged, clean with that Windex and if needed isopropyl alcohol.

I tried using Wax-on / Wax-off Wood polish on a Club-model Rollon Stag table and the surface got very shiny but sticky. Next time I will try using a Rub-on PU water-based varnish and see if I can't get a "glassy" smooth surface finish. :)


The question is; why would you want that?


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PostPosted: 21 Nov 2019, 21:38 
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I would use some soap with neutral PH. I got some soap with neutral PH to clean my inverted rubber . It is cheap , 2 bars for 1 euro.No need for expensive rubber cleaners either. :) :) .

I boil water, then I add some little pieces of the soap I have previously grated :)


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PostPosted: 21 Nov 2019, 21:57 
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DHS China, Shanghai, crappy piece of cellophane, known as Rainbow Exhibition Table. Shiny and skiddy stuff.


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PostPosted: 22 Nov 2019, 02:52 
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lasta wrote:
man_iii wrote:
If the surface is badly damaged, clean with that Windex and if needed isopropyl alcohol.

I tried using Wax-on / Wax-off Wood polish on a Club-model Rollon Stag table and the surface got very shiny but sticky. Next time I will try using a Rub-on PU water-based varnish and see if I can't get a "glassy" smooth surface finish. :)


The question is; why would you want that?
Right. Stag Club Roll-On is the slowest piece of cr*p you can buy. Tt tables need to be very smooth and least amount of grip. So I can't really buy a new table...

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__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-TG2Neo/H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YRakza7/H2 Orig
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 22 Nov 2019, 17:20 
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Hi,

Some White Vinegar diluted in Water (50:50) works wonders ...

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Setup 3 : XVT Hinoki Balsa Carbon Blade 729 Focus III Snipe 40° Max (Black) Dawei 388D-1 OX (Red)
Setup 4 : 729 C-5 Blade Reactor Corbor Max (Black) Palio CK531A 0.6mm (Red)
Setup 5 : Butterfly Joyner-H Blade (Black Metal Tag) Palio AK-47 Yellow Max (Black) Yasaka Mark V Max (Red)


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PostPosted: 22 Nov 2019, 21:09 
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lasta wrote:
man_iii wrote:
If the surface is badly damaged, clean with that Windex and if needed isopropyl alcohol.

I tried using Wax-on / Wax-off Wood polish on a Club-model Rollon Stag table and the surface got very shiny but sticky. Next time I will try using a Rub-on PU water-based varnish and see if I can't get a "glassy" smooth surface finish. :)


The question is; why would you want that?


He doesn't like the ball jumping sideways? :lol:

igorponger wrote:
DHS China, Shanghai, crappy piece of cellophane, known as Rainbow Exhibition Table. Shiny and skiddy stuff.


And I wonder what prompted THIS. :lol:

man_iii wrote:
Right. Stag Club Roll-On is the slowest piece of cr*p you can buy. Tt tables need to be very smooth and least amount of grip. So I can't really buy a new table...


Sounds like you need one of those "DHS Rainbow" tables Igor's talking about above.. :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 22 Nov 2019, 22:05 
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I use the same inexpensive mix that I clean my pips with: A 20:1 dilution (with water) of Simple Green cleaner that I store in a generic spray bottle. For greasy table tennis tables, I spray it directly onto the table and wipe it away with a microfiber cloth. No residue or stickiness is evident and the table surface is dry and ready to use within 30 seconds.

For SP and LP, I get excellent results with this same 20:1 dilution by using a few sprays onto a microfiber cloth that I then use to buff the tips of the pips. I do this before each play session, and sometimes more often if gym conditions warrant it. Pips out players who have never cleaned their pips will discover greater consistency when playing with clean pips.

p.s. Have the common decency to clean up your own sweat droppings when you're done using a table that isn't yours! And don't even get me started on this sport's bizarre and unsavory practice of sweaty palm wiping on the table corners near the net posts..


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PostPosted: 23 Nov 2019, 08:16 
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nathanso wrote:
And don't even get me started on this sport's bizarre and unsavory practice of sweaty palm wiping on the table corners near the net posts..


Does that even work? :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 24 Nov 2019, 17:43 
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Soda powder + white vinegar + water

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PostPosted: 25 Nov 2019, 10:29 
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lasta wrote:
man_iii wrote:
If the surface is badly damaged, clean with that Windex and if needed isopropyl alcohol.

I tried using Wax-on / Wax-off Wood polish on a Club-model Rollon Stag table and the surface got very shiny but sticky. Next time I will try using a Rub-on PU water-based varnish and see if I can't get a "glassy" smooth surface finish. :)


The question is; why would you want that?


Not surprisingly - there are rules concerning friction of the table top. From Technical Leaflet T1:

http://www.ittf.com/wp-content/uploads/ ... 016_v2.pdf

Quote:
4.8. Friction of the playing surface
The changes of both spin and trajectory when a table tennis ball bounces are governed
by the coefficient of friction (CoF) between the ball and the table; the part contributed by
the table to the CoF is almost exclusively a property of the surface finish. We formerly
specified the CoF of the playing surface, but have subsequently learned that there are
unidentified variables that reduce the reproducibility of the method. The following is
therefore advisory, not mandatory:
The dynamic CoF between the playing surface and that of any ITTF-approved ball
should not be greater than 0.6 6 and not be less than … (this limit will be set during
2016, and submitted to BoD in 2017). (you'd think they'd have set this by now.. :lol: ) The CoF should be essentially the same
regardless of the direction in which it is measured.
A simple practical method of determining coefficient of friction uses a triangular raft or
sled supported on three balls, about 2 cm apart, glued to a piece of wood or other
substance that gives a total weight of about 100g. The maximum angle between the
playing surface and the horizontal when the sled will not continue to slip is measured.
The tangent of this angle is the CoF.
Alternatively the 100g sled described above may be pulled over the horizontal table at a
speed of 300 mm/min, and the pulling force is measured. The dynamic CoF is pulling
force divided by the weight of the sled, both in Newtons. The average of five
measurements should be taken. Care should be taken that any device used for
determining the pulling force should be as free from friction as possible.
It should be noted that not all balls have the same frictional properties; The CoF should
be measured according to a standardized procedure including balls used and prior
cleaning of balls and tables.


Interestingly enough - there are rules against tables leaving green or blue marks on balls (this used to happen back in the 1970s).

Iskandar


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