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PostPosted: 18 Aug 2020, 06:23 
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Blade: Donic Defplay Senso V3
FH: Tibhar Evolution MXP
BH: Tibhar Grass DTecS
I have been practicing with the 2.1mm version on a Matador Texa. Mainly block but the more I get used to it the more I have been able to chop from mid-Court.
Excellent rubber. Starting to attack with it. Excellent for punch blocking.

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PostPosted: 17 Mar 2021, 05:10 
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Blade: Siam custom
FH: Xiom Omega 7 Hyper
BH: Barna Super Glanti
Little update. I tested a new custom blade from Siam (Zebrano-limba-limba-kurchi-limba-glass fiber-makore): makore for glanti. I associated it with a Spinlab Vortex 2mm yellow sponge. The control and the spin reversal was insane.
My theory for the best blade for glanti is nearly finished. Hard wood + glass fiber = better spin reversal than just hard wood outer layer.
Now I need to find if walnut-walnut-walnut-walnut-walnut-walnut-walnut (Nittaku Goriki hello :) ) is better than hard wood + glass fiber. So next I will test the Goriki.

btw Makore is nearly the same as walnut.

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Setup 1
Blade - Siam custom
FH - Xiom Omega 7 Hyper max
BH - Barna Original Super Glanti 1.6mm

Setup 2
Blade - Gerry Goriki Danshi
FH - Donic Bluegrip C2
BH - Barna Original Super Glanti 2.0mm


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PostPosted: 20 Sep 2021, 16:50 
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It seems odd to read that that the Storkraft works better on a Clipper Wood than on a Clipper CR which outer ply have received UV treatment which makes it harder. I would have thought the contrary I am a newbie in the flanti so I do believe what you experimented but it makes me hesitate to put it on my CR (on the thread of the Storkraft i told I had CC but it is in fact a CR non WRB). Maybe it will fit better in 1.2 on TCT.


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PostPosted: 20 Sep 2021, 17:33 
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Blade: Barna Winner
FH: Yinhe Jupiter II max
BH: Barna SuperGlanti 1,2 mm
akathedude wrote:
It seems odd to read that that the Storkraft works better on a Clipper Wood than on a Clipper CR which outer ply have received UV treatment which makes it harder. I would have thought the contrary I am a newbie in the flanti so I do believe what you experimented but it makes me hesitate to put it on my CR (on the thread of the Storkraft i told I had CC but it is in fact a CR non WRB). Maybe it will fit better in 1.2 on TCT.
You must know that these are very small differences. Changing the ball makes a bigger difference. But as a rule of thumb - a blade that is good for blocking with anti should be stiff. The outer ply should not be very hard if the inner plys are hard or if there is carbon in the blade. If inner plys are softer then the outer can be harder. Palio TCT is rock hard but the outer ply is rather soft. Another blade, Palio Conqueror, is almost identical but I thing the outer ply is harder. That blade kills the spin in blocks, sending back very nice and low blocks but with almost no spin.

There is not much logic in how different combinations of blades, sponges and anti top sheets work together. And what works for me may not work for you. This is not very good for our private economy... But very good for shops and producers.

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PostPosted: 20 Sep 2021, 18:33 
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so which is fine is hard "core" blade with outer plies softer and/or carbon or soft inside with outer harder. And the stiffest the best.
I completely forget that the ball is an important componenet of the spin reversal.
Thanks a lot


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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2021, 17:53 
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has anyone tried the Palio way 003 and/or Palio way 005?
The composition, at least, what I found seems interesting.

The first one seems to be a 8-ply wood with rosewood ueter layer and the second one 2xwalnut-3xayous core- walnutx2

By the way, is there a site thet refers the composition of the Palio blades? The only one I found is not very complete for this brand

https://stumpof.blogspot.com/p/stumps-blade-composition-list-kz.html

For the price that it costs the risks are smalls.


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