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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2021, 05:16 
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Joined: 20 May 2017, 18:00
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Blade: LQ2
FH: Neptune ox
BH: ck531a ox
Hello fellow hardbatters, I'm facing a very serious problem, i pasted a new Yasaka A2 rubber on my LQ2 blade, n when i started practicing topspins, i realized after half hour, that the pimples r getting damaged, n i mean seriously damaged, as i kept on playing i realized n clearly felt losing the grip on the ball. I have practiced for 3 hours over 3 days, 1 hour each day for just topspins, n it seems i have ruined this rubber.

Has anyone else also faced anything like this, please let me know :sweat:

If i keep on practising at this rate n keep on ruining rubbers, then I'll have to ask elon musk to adopt me ;(


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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2021, 07:25 
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Joined: 14 Jul 2012, 03:02
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Location: western NC
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Blade: Stiga Allround Classic
FH: RITC 802/1.5mm
BH: RITC 802/1.5mm
I have never used the A2 rubber sheet, but I am surprised that it is so fragile. During my hardbat career, I used mostly Dr Evil, which proved very durable. After a few months of play against inverted loopers, I might see a few pips crack at the base, but this was not common. In hardbat vs hardbat play, I almost never broke a pip. If you are looking for a fairly spinny hardbat rubber that is legal for U.S. hardbat events, I can also recommend Butterfly Orthodox.


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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2021, 01:59 
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Joined: 27 Oct 2010, 16:38
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Location: Russia
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Blade: Stiga Clipper Classic
FH: Tibhar Evolution MX-S 1.9
BH: Dr. Neubauer K.O. Pro 1.3
I value Dr. Evil as a very fragile rubber like the worst of LPs durability. So it seems practical durability depends more on technique then on rubber.


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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2021, 06:10 
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Joined: 05 Oct 2007, 06:49
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Blade: Grubba ALL+
FH: Marder 1mm
BH: Dornenglanz ox
For what it's worth, I was hitting topspins with the A-1 for hours last night (mostly backhands). After reading this post, I checked the rubber and it looks OK. I think the A-1 is supposed to have slightly longer pips than the A-2.

A lot of hardbat players prefer blades made with softer woods. Harder outer plys can be tough on pips when you're consistently smacking hard shots.

I've never had a problem with the durability of Dr. Evil. They did have a massive bad batch of black rubbers about 10 years ago.


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2021, 03:57 
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Blade: Stiga Clipper Classic
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BH: Dr. Neubauer K.O. Pro 1.3
mynamenotbob wrote:
I've never had a problem with the durability of Dr. Evil. They did have a massive bad batch of black rubbers about 10 years ago.
It is very possible that I was unlucky to had got that bad batch. Did not try this rubber still.


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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2021, 16:23 
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Blade: LQ2
FH: Neptune ox
BH: ck531a ox
mynamenotbob wrote:
For what it's worth, I was hitting topspins with the A-1 for hours last night (mostly backhands). After reading this post, I checked the rubber and it looks OK. I think the A-1 is supposed to have slightly longer pips than the A-2.

A lot of hardbat players prefer blades made with softer woods. Harder outer plys can be tough on pips when you're consistently smacking hard shots.

I've never had a problem with the durability of Dr. Evil. They did have a massive bad batch of black rubbers about 10 years ago.



I had this misconception that hardbat Rubbers r the most durable, they'll go on for like atleast a year, but now that misconception is gone. I use Yinhe LQ2 defensive blade, its very flexible.


Last edited by ankit_singh92 on 26 Jan 2021, 16:30, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2021, 16:28 
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Blade: LQ2
FH: Neptune ox
BH: ck531a ox
I have damaged Andro Classic also, i have dr evil, but I don't like it at all. Evil is the worst rubber i feel.


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