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PostPosted: 15 Feb 2021, 02:58 
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Blade: Stiga Allround Classic
FH: Stiga Future
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Seeking any updated advice/suggestions to alternative TT glue and sealant. TT glue and sealant brands are quite expensive and wondering if any recent recommendations are out there for more economical, yet tried and true, alternatives that might be avail at local hardware / craft store?

I have not seen much said within the last year or two and looking for current suggestions.

-H2F


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PostPosted: 15 Feb 2021, 07:11 
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For sealant' Poly is still the best. Most hardwares have it. :)


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PostPosted: 16 Feb 2021, 04:10 
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@Hookshot you just made hiz day.

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PostPosted: 18 Feb 2021, 19:54 
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Glues? If you're in the US you can easily get Elmer's or Best Test Rubber Cement (the latter is available from Staples, Office Depot, etc.).

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 22 Feb 2021, 14:34 
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Blade: Stiga Allround Classic
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Thanks for the tip. I am in the US. Is rubber cement my best option or am I better off with TT glue...should I just suck it up? If so, what brand TT glue does one recommend?

Thanks,
-H2F


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PostPosted: 22 Feb 2021, 15:25 
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VENEERS in BLACK. How do they do it?? and Why?

The misterious factory processing that makes veneer layers looking black. How do they do this? None woodcraftsman here in Russia did give me a useful clue so far.
Im eager for an expert answer very much.


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PostPosted: 22 Feb 2021, 20:10 
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Hard2Find wrote:
Thanks for the tip. I am in the US. Is rubber cement my best option or am I better off with TT glue...should I just suck it up? If so, what brand TT glue does one recommend?


It's a lot easier to use, and there's no issue of it sticking too hard or otherwise damaging your blade. It does contain volatile organic solvents (VOC) but this should be a non-issue to casual/club players and even competitors in the lower classes. It's not illegal to use these glues - what IS illegal is having a bat that fails VOC testing at tournaments. As I said, this is a non-issue since your bat isn't going to get tested unless you're international class and are playing at a top level tournament. The reason VOC testing is a thing has to do with the old speed glues, which not only has tons more VOC than Elmer's Rubber Cement does, they had far nastier VOCs such as carbon tetrachloride. If you make up a bat with Elmer's, it'd probably test just fine if it's been a week or two since you put the rubbers on in any case.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 22 Feb 2021, 20:11 
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igorponger wrote:
VENEERS in BLACK. How do they do it?? and Why?

The misterious factory processing that makes veneer layers looking black. How do they do this? None woodcraftsman here in Russia did give me a useful clue so far.
Im eager for an expert answer very much.


This guy hasn't heard of wood stains yet... :lol: I suppose the "woodscraftsman" in Russia aren't very advanced. Not to mention it's not relevant to what's being discussed here, as usual.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 22 Feb 2021, 23:27 
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iskandar taib wrote:
igorponger wrote:
VENEERS in BLACK. How do they do it?? ...

... I suppose the "woodscraftsman" in Russia aren't very advanced. ...



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PostPosted: 23 Feb 2021, 21:03 
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iskandar taib wrote:

The misterious factory processing that makes veneer layers looking black. How do they do this? None woodcraftsman here in Russia did give me a useful clue so far.
Im eager for an expert answer very much.


This guy hasn't heard of wood stains yet... :lol: I suppose the "woodscraftsman" in Russia aren't very advanced. Not to mention it's not relevant to what's being discussed here, as usual.

Iskandar[/quote]
iskandar taib wrote:
igorponger wrote:
VENEERS in BLACK. How do they do it?? and Why?

The misterious factory processing that makes veneer layers looking black. How do they do this? None woodcraftsman here in Russia did give me a useful clue so far.
Im eager for an expert answer very much.


This guy hasn't heard of wood stains yet... :lol: I suppose the "woodscraftsman" in Russia aren't very advanced. Not to mention it's not relevant to what's being discussed here, as usual.

Iskandar


POEM ABOUT THE GREAT RUSSIAN ENGINEER by the name of Bear..

As usual RUSSIAN Bear
Beautiful,
Nice Looking,
Giant bald ass
INTERNATIONALLY REPUTABLE,
Vast Knowledge all-in-one
Totally abstaining from Vodka
20 Year working record
profaundly dedicated to the Mohatmah Gandy Altruistic Teaching, amatory of all people.
well matured specimen of Bear walking onwards, and the ever-grumbling pinky doggy as usual barks.

THE END.
_________
Yes, that is me, a native child of Russia mother land, waiting for an expert answer, as usual.. ALL BLACK LAYERS OF VENEER. WHY ?

[size=140]Hope dies last, as per usual.[/size[


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PostPosted: 24 Feb 2021, 15:46 
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Image

Internationally Reputable. HAHAHAHAHA.. That's why they're competing as "ROC" in the next Olympics. Weird... ROC used to be what they called Taiwan.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 24 Feb 2021, 17:00 
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I got a query about whether "Best Test Paper Cement" or "Best Test Rubber Cement" was the correct one to use - I wasn't even aware that there WAS a "Best Test Paper Cement". What's the difference? See if you can figure it out:

https://www.speedballart.com/our-produc ... adhesives/

Turns out there's also a "Best Test One Coat Rubber Cement"...

Looking at the MSDSs (there's links on the page above) all of these glues have two components - n-Heptane and "Natural Rubber Latex". Both Paper Cement and Rubber Cement have the same percentages - 87.3% heptane and 12.4% rubber (not sure what makes up the missing 0.3%). This makes me think the two are essentially the same thing. The blurb on the page above says that Rubber Cement is an "economical alternative" to Paper Cement (therefore it's cheaper and more or less the same things...). One Coat Rubber Cement has the same two ingredients, except it's got 79.5% heptane and 11.7% rubber (and presumably 8.8% other components). I suppose if someone's REALLY curious they could get small containers of all three AND Elmer's Rubber Cement and give them all a shot. I've only ever used Elmer's and Best Test Rubber Cement, so I can't really say.. I'll bet they all work equally well. You DO NOT want something so strong that it prevents you from removing the rubber without damage - that is why we don't use, for instance, counter top contact adhesive. I think even Yellow Tube UHU might be too strong.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 25 Feb 2021, 04:22 
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil

Exeptionally good for woodworking, yet known as orally toxicant.


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