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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2022, 04:32 
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Blade: DHS PG7
FH: H3 neo
BH: Friendship 729
Hi guys. I'm a lower-intermediate player who wanted to change my racket setup. I currently use a Chinese setup but also wanted to try a new one because I feel my current setup is a bit off for me.

Calling all the experts here, do you know if my planned setup is ok?
Blade: Tibhar SPW
FH: Nittaku Fastarc G1
BH: Donic Barracuda

I want a better-controlled offensive play so that I can improve all my basic offensive strokes and I hope that this setup will get me there.

For context, my FH is not that much developed yet, I've trained my FH loop/smash but can't execute with power and high consistency. My BH is much more developed, I like to flick/topspin but my BH smash sucks.


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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2022, 07:45 
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Location: Brisbane North
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Blade: Yasaka Sweden Classic ST
FH: Hurricane 3 41* black 2.2
BH: MXP or Hurricane 8 2.2
looks better for smashing...

I was considering that blade too.

Chinese rubbers are hard to smash with so any Euro/Jap should help. However, these days tacky rubbers come from nontraditional places too.

If fast arc has any tack at all then it still is not the best for smashing.

Still, you will find that not everything is about smashing. For example, last night I looped a ball so hard that an experienced opponent said they couldn't even see the ball land and go past them. And that I contacted a couple of meters behind the table and at about table height. That shot was with Hurricane and on an all-round blade = equipment that is passively slow.

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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2022, 11:04 
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Blade: DHS PG7
FH: H3 neo
BH: Friendship 729
Actually, I'm not really looking for powerful smash now. My current focus is to:
1. Better overall offensive control
2. Good setup for BH flick and to improve my BH loop
3. FH rubber that can improve my FH loop quality (all aspect beside speed/power because thats not my concern yet)


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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2022, 19:45 
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Blade: Yasaka Sweden Classic ST
FH: Hurricane 3 41* black 2.2
BH: MXP or Hurricane 8 2.2
you already got the setup for that

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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2022, 21:26 
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Blade: DHS PG7
FH: H3 neo
BH: Friendship 729
I see understand. My current complaint about my setup is just that I feel that the blade is a bit heavy. Tried my friend's setup with a lighter blade and it helped me flick better.

Anyways, any comment on the new setup tho? Do you think that fastarc g-1 is appropriate for someone playing at my level (lower intermediate) where control still matters?


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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2022, 15:04 
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I have a similar setup of Xiom Offensive S/G1/Hexer Powergrip. G1 has some similar qualities to hard Chinese rubbers in that it is a linear, stable rubber that grips the ball very firmly, but it has a much more springy sponge than that on a Hurricane. I would say if you aren't that consistent on the forehand yet, then G1 may feel a bit wild or unpredictable sometimes due to the firmer sponge combined with the non tacky topsheet and the need for consistent sponge compression for good results. How about try Fastarc C1 on both sides? C1 is basically G1 with a softer sponge, whereas G1 shoots the ball out powerfully, C1 holds onto the ball a bit longer which can make your shots easier to control.


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PostPosted: 30 Sep 2022, 12:06 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Victas VS401
BH: Victas Triple Regular
Could you post a 1 minutes video of your play? Makes it easier to comment. Intermediate could cover a very wide range. The very best players at my club would be intermediate or lower in a city.

Regardless, that setup looks like something anyone in our club should use regardless of strokes level and strokes. If not used tensors before, maybe start at 2.0mm (thats what I use) and move up to 2.2mm next time if you wish. Even 1.8mm might be fine, you won't lack speed, that blade has been used by 2 club champions at our club.

What I like about that type of setup for our club players regardless of level is that if using a similar setup to our past club champions then there can be no equipment excuses and they won't wonder if their bat is ok. Having said that, I generally like to set up our B / C grade players with a Euro blade for nice feel and some LKT Xp Pro as its a softer chinese rubber also with good feel that can play all the shots, just a bit slower than a Euro rubber and costs a bit less. Use that for a year or two then upgrade if required.

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Donic Waldner Senso V1,FH Victas VS401 2.0mm ,BH Victas Triple Regular 2.0mm


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PostPosted: 30 Sep 2022, 16:30 
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Blade: Donic Defplay Senso v3
FH: DHS 651
BH: Dornenglanz
What do you actually want to hear? Having been in your position many times before, in my experience once you've started thinking you want a new setup, as long as you have the money, I think it's unlikely anyone is going to convince you to save your money and stick with what you have.

Arguments in favour of sticking with what you have would be that there's really nothing wrong with your current setup - it and combinations like it have been used at very high levels, and for the game and shots you describe is arguably perfect. However, it feels heavy to you, and in your mind you already want a change, so you're probably going to get *something* else whatever anyone says!

So, is the something else any better? Well the blade is a bit slower, and a bit softer, and a bit less demanding, so maybe it's a good choice. Personally I would recommend something a bit slower still - just a good quality 5 ply wood blade at allround such a Stiga Allround Classic, a Yasaka Sweden Classic or a Donic Appelgren Allplay.

The Nittaku G1 is basically a tensor rubber from the same factory as the Andro, Donic, Xiom, factory - they're more or less drop-in replacements with different colour sponges. They're a slightly older design now, compared the latest ones, but they're fine. I"ve used them all, and they're all great. I tend to get whatever one I can get the best price on at the time. It will be *different* from your Hurricane, but not better. It will probably be a bit lighter. If weight is a concern, I would second Cobalt's suggestion of getting LKT XP Pro, which is a lovely rubber, and a bit lighter.

Another way to reduce the weight is to use a thinner sponge and a less dense sponge, so instead of going for the maximum sponge width try 2.0 or even 1.8mm.

Donic Barracuda is an ancient rubber by today's standards - I think it came out in about 2009 - however, it's a very nice rubber, easy to control and play. It could be a very good choice.

So, assuming you are going to buy something rather than save your money, or invest in a couple of hours with a coach, I would say this could be a good setup, but the only tweak I'd make would be a slower blade, and to suggest you err on the thinner side with rubbers. You certainly could do no worse that 2 sheets of LKT Pro Xp, as suggested by Cobalt, and save yourself some money too!

Good luck, and let us know how you get on!

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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2022, 22:12 
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Blade: Nittaku Acoustic
FH: Rakza 7 2.0
BH: Rakza 7 1.8
zoowology wrote:
Hi guys. I'm a lower-intermediate player who wanted to change my racket setup. I currently use a Chinese setup but also wanted to try a new one because I feel my current setup is a bit off for me.

Calling all the experts here, do you know if my planned setup is ok?
Blade: Tibhar SPW
FH: Nittaku Fastarc G1
BH: Donic Barracuda

I want a better-controlled offensive play so that I can improve all my basic offensive strokes and I hope that this setup will get me there.

For context, my FH is not that much developed yet, I've trained my FH loop/smash but can't execute with power and high consistency. My BH is much more developed, I like to flick/topspin but my BH smash sucks.


I'll add my 5c from a perspective of another lower intermediate player (I've returned to tt this summer after several decades hiatus, played a bit as a student, but then stopped completely). I'm using G-1 on BH/FH and tried 3 of my son's cheap pre-made Chinese bats. They all feel more or less the same to me, i.e dead. I don't know your blade so can't comment on this.

This is all highly personal of course. So take it with a pinch of salt.

Usually when you go for a quality setup you should expect a much nicer, rewarding tactile feeling and some useful feedback, the bat will feel "alive" compared to a cheap Chinese one. To me this is priceless at our stage as it gives you a lot of fun and incentive to play more and find any excuse to go and hit the ball. I guess many amateurs lost any interest and gave up because they played with a dull boring dead bat. That's my cheap argument for spending loads of cash on unnecessary things.

Now to the technical side. How does G-1 feel for a lower intermediate player.

G-1 is a pretty fast and rather heavy rubber with a hard-elastic, solid feel which comes onto it's own at mid and longer distances. Here it is very controllable even at our level, producing a reliable low-medium arc and a good kick, what I call FFF - a flat fast forward rebound which is a nightmare for an intermediate opponent. The ball doesn't jump up like a scary rabbit ready to be killed, which happens with some slower soft rubbers and silly hight arcs. The spin with G-1 is very deceptive: you think it's not that much, but it rebounds and, oops, hits your opponents bat's edge.

I wouldn't worry about control with G-1. To me control and placement are better than with "comfortable" soft rubbers, often recommended for beginners, mainly because G-1 is very linear and honest - a weak shot is slow, if you hit harder it's predictably faster and if you are able to execute a good full FH swing topspin - it's a monster. If you want to develop your attacking FH, G-1 is a good rubber in my view.

You've guessed by now that I simply don't have time for soft rubbers. ))

Close to the table play though could be quite difficult with G-1 as you need to play actively all the time, passive blocks of a weak shot, gentle brushing etc just won't work, the ball will slip on passive/thin contact. You will always need to push it a bit and properly engage the sponge. Short topsheet flicks, banana flicks on a dead ball go awry if I try to just brush it. For the same reason receiving short spinny servers could be very difficult, but here your skill and spin reading is a major factor. You may be better than me and then it will work just nice.

And it's not really for slow looping either, Nittaku says it's a drive-spin rubber, and it really is. Blocking powerful shots at mid-to longer distances is great and easy, you just use your opponent's speed, the ball sinks into the sponge and it becomes spin-insensitive.

So if you are developing as an attacking player who tries to move away from short balls at first opportunity, then yes, this is a great rubber and a powerful, controlled weapon. If you play close and prefer an intricate exchange and close counter, then I would say no, there should be better rubbers at your stage.

I based the above on my 3-months experience with Nittaku Violin/G-1 2.0 mm. Your mileage may vary depending on how you play. I don't know how Violin compares to SPW as I never tried it. It was recommended to me by people I trust when I was looking for a blade, so should be a good one. Never tried a Barracuda. Violin I can recommend highly, although it's not cheap.

Re the weight of the bat - if you want it lighter, you may just specifically ask for a lighter SPW. Many sellers wouldn't mind to weigh their blades. I realised recently that the weight may differ quite a lot. I've got a 79g Acoustic even though Nittaku clam +/-88. My Violin is 89g and with G-1 on both sides it's 186g but feels a bit head-heavy.

And finally - when developing my shots, I personally would not go for different rubbers for BH and FH. It just feels a bit confusing to me. I would prefer consistent feeling on both wings for a year or two and then adjust if necessary.

Hope it helps.


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