OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Hello everyone,

I have been reading this forum for a year now and I have found many useful posts. I have finally gathered the courage to write my first post here . I apologize to everyone for my poor English; I will try to use an online translator. Hopefully, it will be somewhat understandable . I've learned a lot about this from this part of the forum, as well as from the blog: viewtopic.php?f=58&t=21956 (@Def-attack)

Let me start by describing myself a bit... I am 57 years old, 177cm tall, and currently weigh 104kg . I live and work in Serbia. I played table tennis actively in a club from 1982 to 1991. Back then, I played with the old and good equipment that was common for many offensive players: Butterfly Gergely blade + FH and BH Sriver L rubbers. My playing style was classic offensive, although my backhand was always much weaker than my forehand. My entire game and movement were based on a strong forehand spin and chasing the ball in a 9m² area on the forehand and backhand side . My coach always told me I would never become a complete player because I tried to solve everything with a forehand shot. He was right I never managed to effectively use the backhand. At that time, I compensated for it with my youth (16-24 years old), my speed, and my weight of only 60 kg . I could never learn proper footwork, especially the repeated strong BH spins, before transitioning to the FH. But that's in the past...

After that, from 1991 to 2015, I took a 24-year break from playing completely! I got married, had a son, looked for a job, etc., etc. - life's usual things. The desire to train slowly faded and eventually disappeared until 2015. The desire came again

Then I started training again and after a year, I joined a local club. After such a long break, I encountered entirely new things like playing sets to 11 points and using water-based glue for rubbers, tensor rubbers, etc., etc. I couldn't find my old equipment anymore. I bought, as is customary for total beginners, a fast blade and 2 Tenergy 05 max rubbers . I forgot that I was almost 50 years old and weighed around 90 kg at that time . Soon, I switched to slower equipment. In about a year, I somehow managed to regain a minimal rhythm for playing, and I even joined a team that played league matches. This was the period from 2016 to 2019; we played in the 5th division in our country. My love for this sport was reignited .

In 2019, during a training session with a young player who was in the team (rank 2) in our country, I injured my shoulder. I couldn't play at all anymore due to immense pain. At the suggestion of a friend from the club, I started using various SP and LP rubbers on my BH and tried practicing pushing and chopping with those rubbers during training. Given my health situation with the shoulder injury, I could only play BH like that. I hadn't played forehand for over a year. The shoulder injury slowly subsided. Then the pandemic hit, and like everywhere else in the world, training and gatherings were restricted. I tried to make use of that time and learn to play BH with LP and some SP rubbers, but it didn't go well. Simply put, I wasn't persistent enough, and probably both LP and SP rubbers require a completely different hand and wrist setup when playing close to the table. I just couldn't learn that. I had more harm than benefit from LP and SP rubbers. I have tried various rubbers, such as Grass D.TecS 0.5, Grass D.TecS OX, Dr.Neubauer Aggressor, Dr.Neubauer KO, Dr.Neubauer Killer, Spinlord Degu, Spinlord Waran, Dawei 388d-1 OX... However, I always found myself returning to inverted rubbers after a certain period. My intention to slow down the pace of play on the BH side, creating a suitable situation with a few shots to transition to the FH side and score a point with an FH loop, couldn't materialize. This was mostly because I wasn't persistent enough, and probably because LP and SP rubbers require quite a different hand and wrist position when playing close to the table. I just couldn't learn it.

I never had any experience with anti-spin rubbers. But I had a desire to try them. Unfortunately, there is not a single player in my club who plays with anti-spin rubbers. Watching some video clips recommended in this forum and blog (@Def-attack), I got the impression that I might be able to start practicing with an anti-spin rubber on my BH side. I am simply amazed by Marcus's style of play in this video and these parts:

https://youtu.be/MHHcggrxoeM?t=81
https://youtu.be/MHHcggrxoeM?t=113
https://youtu.be/ViqmByIIRmQ?t=33

The way his hand and wrist position for blocking and "chopping" and pushing with anti-spin rubber close to table, resembles how it is with inverted rubbers. I'm fairly confident that with persistence, I might be able to learn at least a bit. My goal isn't a massive reverse right now; I mainly want to have a dynamic aggressive pushing and "chopping", even if with empty balls. And then have the opportunity to execute a strong attack with FH from the table. I know it won't be easy, but now I have a strong desire to learn this style of play. I'm only playing recreationally now, not in league matches, so I have all the time in the world . Therefore, I would like to slow down the game a bit, make better use of my BH, and then create a proper setup for a FH attack. I want to bring my game closer to the table as much as possible. The way I currently play with 2 inverted rubbers it makes me tired, and I lose rhythm quickly.
It's not just about my victories in matches here, that's not so important; what's more important to me is being able to play, let's say, 5 matches properly during the evening. This style of play doesn't allow me to do that. I get tired very quickly. I will also need to pay attention to my weight and start a diet

My inspiration (at least somewhat ) anti-spin rubber is as follows:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHHcggrxoeM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViqmByIIRmQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCrBuF_Gui4 (great match ... @Def-attack)

I hope I am not immodest


I only have a few older videos of myself and just one from this year; they all feature inverted rubbers. Unfortunately, I don't have footage of any official league matches or any attempts with LP and SP rubbers. I haven't uploaded full sets, only characteristic points where you can see and assess the situation. Especially whether my defensive backhand movements are suitable for a good and easy transition to the anti-spin rubber. Apologies for the long videos . I am in the first video wearing a black jersey.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLUJEkoAxpw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJpRSvbZAUU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8wCX8PNgjc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkdLlF5TDf4

What advice do you have for me?

My idea is as follows:
To start with simpler anti-spin rubbers for a few months, such as Spinlord Gigant, Spinlord Gigant 2, Spinlord Sandwind, Barna Original Original Anti, Der Materialspezialist Anti-Speed, etc.,.. (So... one of these rubbers. Which ? )

and then transition to more advanced ones like Barna Original Super Glanti, Barna Original Super Glanti Attack, Der Materialspezialist Storkraft, Dr.Neubauer A-B-S, etc...

Is this a good idea or not?

Also, do you advise me to buy a blade that works better with anti-spin rubbers?
For example: Dr.Neubauer Matador Texa, Dr.Neubauer Matador, etc... The blade should also be great for FH spin.

You can see the list of blades I have in my signature. I'm currently using Nittaku Miyabi.

Thank you all for your suggestions and advice

_________________
1979-1991 Butterfly Gergely Gen 1&2, Butterfly Gergely Carbon, Sriver L

p..a..u..s..e 24 years

2015...

2023
Blade Matador
FH Tibhar MXP Max
BH ABS 2 Evo

Again, welcome!

First off, is your main purpose with a different rubber on BH to "just" setup for a FH kill (like ABS 2 and 3, Spinlab Vortex)? Or do you want a more disturbing rubber that gives you points from just being tricky for your opponent (like SuperGlanti)? Or do you perhaps just want a safe rubber that is very forgiving, that you just can hold up and the ball will land safely on the table, and that you may also attack slight top spinwith (like Gigant, Super Stop, Lion Mantlet, or more classic antis like Anti Power).

Second, how slow or fast do you want it to be? If you go super slow, you will need to stay close to the table, and that may cause troubles for your FH, depending on the amount of spin reversal and so on.

Third, what blade are you planning to use? Buy a new? Use what is best for your FH?

_________________
Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

If you are off to chop with the anti, you should give Nittaku Best Anti a try. The anti journey should start off with a grippy anti, such as the aforementioned one. Once you got a stabile gameplay, you can move off to the flantis, such as the ABS series.

As for the blade, you can go for the Matador Texa (Carbon). Good for antis/pimples but still give you room for good topspins on the forehand.

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

Hello,

Have you already tried the Stiga Cybershape Carbon at your club? I think it fits very well with flanties.

If you don't like it, probably Matafor Texa Carbon is the best blade for you.

My opinion is to test the ABS 2 PRO first.
If you feel that is too slow, then you should try grippy anties or maybe medium pips(like Dr neubauer Killer).
If you think that ABS 2 PRO is too fast, you should decide what you want:
1) More control and placement- ABS3 1.5 or DMS Scandal
2) High level of deception and spin reversal - DMS Storkraft or Barna Super Glanti.

_________________
Stiga Cyber-shape carbon CWT 6g
BH - DMS Scandal 1.2 - RED
FH- Tenergy 05 Hard - 2.1- BLACK

Thank you for the responses, they are very helpful to me.

@Def-attack: Your observations and questions are very useful. I hope my description won't sound like I'm describing chess playing ...
To start with, I would like to gain a slight advantage with the BH anti-spin rubber by using consecutive aggressive pushes and deceptive "chopping" of the ball. Then, I would take control with my FH side after a few such exchanges. It doesn't necessarily need to have a significant "deception" for the opponent, as I'm aware that anti-spin rubbers with strong deception on the table are probably not suitable for me at the moment, because it's difficult to immediately learn how to use such a rubber after using a smooth rubber. I seem to have made that mistake with LP rubbers, for instance, when I started using D.TecS OX as my first one.

So, mostly, points would also be won with the FH side initially.

What's most important to me at the beginning is that the rubber, in a classic chopping motion on the table (similar to using a smooth rubber), produces empty or semi-empty balls. The rubber's speed shouldn't be high, so I can execute this motion more convincingly (with a larger arm swing). In theory, after a few such shots, the opponent should slightly "lift" the ball, which is an advantage for my FH attack. I would like to practice so that with such a strong and convincing longer BH stroke, the balls go fast. In my opinion, the rubber should be semi-fast, or maybe even slow... at least I assume so. Also, it should be easy for a beginner to adapt to and provide a sense of security in the game.

Maybe I described my idea poorly before – I don't mean that all FH shots will be close to the table. I'm aware that this style of play will change the positioning for FH and bring certain challenges, but I think I'll adapt to FH very easily.

If you say that my current blades aren't suitable for anti-spin, I would buy a new one. Essentially, if there's such a big difference for playing with anti-spin rubber that buying a specific blade like the Matador is necessary, then there's no problem. I'm listening to your advice, as I've never hit a ball with an anti-spin rubber in my life.

@GregorTT425: I forgot to mention Nittaku Best Anti, thanks for reminding me. I also like the idea of a semi anti-spin rubber with a slight grip, as well as the idea of gaining experience with a slightly "simpler" anti-spin rubber first, which might be more suitable when transitioning from a smooth rubber. I'm writing all of this hypothetically, as I've never played with an anti-spin rubber. I might be mistaken though.

@Ycos3d: No one here has that blade, nor have I had the chance to see it in person at all . I'll keep your recommendations in mind. I will keep in mind everything else you've written.

Another important thing I forgot to mention... in my club, I'm mainly responsible for gluing the rubbers for about 60% of the players. We mostly use classic inverted rubbers, there are LP, LP OX, and SP rubbers as well. The club glue is always with me throughout the year. But nobody plays with an anti-spin rubber, so I've never glued them either. We generally use Revolution 3 glue for everything. It allows the sponge to be completely clean before each re-gluing, as it comes off easily. Another thing is that this glue allows "inexpensive" testing of different rubbers on different blades – unnecessary layers of glue aren't built up during testing on another blade.

I believe this will also be very important for me, as I'm sure I'll try the future BH rubber on several blades. I wouldn't want that to be impossible, as the top sheet gets damaged in such situations . I know that gluing the anti-spin rubber isn't a topic for now; I was thinking about it a bit later, but I wanted to mention that as well. So, in the beginning, I'll definitely need to switch to different blades at least a few times. At least this first anti-spin rubber, until I figure out which blade suits me the most. Later on, I probably wouldn't change blades anymore. On FH side, the MX-P Max remains.

_________________
1979-1991 Butterfly Gergely Gen 1&2, Butterfly Gergely Carbon, Sriver L

p..a..u..s..e 24 years

2015...

2023
Blade Matador
FH Tibhar MXP Max
BH ABS 2 Evo

Cybershape Carbon is indeed a good fit for a flanti, but might be a bit too stiff for topspin. The Matador Texa Carbon is made for anti, as on backhand is stiff (good for anti) and forehand is more flexible (good for inverted).

The ABS 2 Pro could easily be too fast with the Cybershape Carbon, but would be perfect with the Texa Carbon. The Cybershape Carbon is good with the ABS3, either in 1,5 or 2,0 mm (good control and reversal).

The ABS flantis have relatively good control, but not that high reversal. The DMS and Barna flantis have relatively good reversal, but not that high control. I suggest you start with a grippy anti, then go for the flantis. Start with an ABS 3, as it has good control, so you can safely learn the basic strokes. If you want to gain some speed and attacking capabilities, you can move on to the ABS 2 Pro. As for the blades, it's up to you, really. You can go with both, but Texa Carbon is way cheaper and might be a better fit for anti, as it is definitely made for anti. The Cybershape is not (no matter it can be used for that). Texa Carbon is stiffer on the backhand side, thus gives you better reversal.

Good luck!

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

Hello returnee and welcome!
So an interesting thing happened while I was reading your post. So I was reading and I saw the paragraph before the videos with your play and directly opened the first video without reading the info about who's who on the video So while I was watching the first video (against the yellow shirt guy) my first thoughts where: "I hope returnee is the guy in yellow" Because he was passive and at first glance the other guy (that is actually you) was moving well, playing very actively and a little behind the table.. and the yellow-shirted guy - passively.. so he was a good candidate for an anti in my eyes.. After that I returned to your post, read the paragraph.. then re-read the post and, of course, from your post would be very obvious that you're not the yellow-shirted guy.. but somehow my mind thought that from the two of you the one that would want to play with anti would be him and that would mean that he is you
I won't be saying anything anti-antispinic (cause I play with an anti too ) but just wanted to say that I really liked the flow of your game - it seemed very well connected to me. Good transitions, good connections between the first and the second attack - very nice!
If you want to try an anti - go for it!
From my experience the most important change when switching to flanti/OX pips is the type of movement of the body. As an example (it's an extrapolation though) I would say that using flanti is somehow the same as always using a chop-block with the regular rubber on your BH - only in terms of momentum and body movement. You somehow absorb the pace of the ball a little bit(and you stop your body a little) and you definitely don't get the same forward momentum that you would get when you block normally with a regular rubber (or SP) (after a normal block you can often use this momentum and continue with more aggressive actions.. after a chop-block you can do that too too, but it's very different). And this difference (for me at least) is a very important thing that one needs to get used to.
This is partially the reason why I use traditional antis - I can somehow try and use them more as a regular rubber when blocking and this does not affect my movement pattern so much.
This is more like a personal observation and it could be absolutely irrelevant to you though

_________________
My ooak blog.

My observation is that your BH is 'as sweet as' Consider getting a slower inverted instead of going traditional or frictionless anti to still complent (with minimum adjustments) your overall game flow and your FH which is also excellent. My two pennies. Good luck!

From what this thread has revealed so far, I would suggest you to test Dr Neubauerm ABS 2 evo in 1.8 or 2.1 mm. This is a good allround frictionless anti that has parts of most of the other antis, but is placed somewhere in the middle. From here you can see in what direction you want to go. If you want to test two different antis two versions more apart, I would suggest ABS 3 in 1.5 or 2 mm and SuperGlanti, the original sponge, in 1.2 mm. If you use a slow blade, you should try SuperGlanti in 0.8 mm.

You can try this on your current blade, it is good not to change all parameters at once. But if you want to invest in a blade I would recommend Matador Texa (not texa carbon, I think you loose a lot of feeling in FH with the carbon and it also makes the BH anti-block a little worse). This is a rather heavy blade (the three I have weighteed all landed on 92 gram) so you may want to ask for a light one. Heavy means higher density in the wood layers, and that gives more speed and keeps the arc low, but it is not sure that it will enhance the spin reversal.

_________________
Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

@GregorTT425 ... Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'm a bit old-fashioned, but I wouldn't want to hold that Stiga blade in my hands. It's not about the price of the blade, but its shape. It looks like an experiment to me. But that's just me . As for the Texa Carbon, that's a different story, I find it acceptable, but I need to know more about it, particularly its ability for FH loops. I believe it's good there as well, but I have to watch a video where its ability for FH attack with a classic smooth tensor rubber is primarily showcased.

@v100ev ... Dear neighbor , I don't know how you could confuse me with the opponent in the yellow shirt (my good friend), considering he's 12 years younger than me . Essentially, because of that, I'd like to be him . In any case, thank you for rejuvenating me by 12 years, at least for a few minutes ... Thanks for the other advice. Thank you for your advice and support for me to switch to an anti-spin rubber ... By the way, I watched some of your matches, you play great!!

@TTbuddy ... These videos are from 5 years ago, now I'm 10 kg heavier than back then (104kg), even slower, and with worse movement than before. In the meantime, a few minor health issues have appeared as well. But I understand your advice. Thanks. I did try using BTF Tackiness on the BH side for a week. It was still pushing me away from the table and requiring a lot of movement and a fast pace in the game. When I consider everything, unfortunately, I have to admit to myself that I can't sustain 5 matches in one evening at that pace, after the usual warm-up at practice. So, around 2-2.5 hours of active playing. Any two smooth rubbers simply make me play very aggressively and at a great distance from the table. It seems I need to resolve some things in my mind first, and in order to succeed at that, it looks like I need some "coercion" - a BH rubber that will stick me to the table, whether I liked it or not

@Def-attack ... Thanks for the advice. It seems like you're a step ahead of me, as that's exactly what I was thinking and planning to write. As my first anti-spin rubber, I was also considering - in the following order ABS 2 Evo, ABS 3, or ABS 2 Pro. So, one of those three rubbers. That would be the rubber I'd use to learn the basics of playing anti-spin on the BH side within 6-12 months. I'm sure that in the first year, I wouldn't try anything similar to SuperGlanti. After that, if I learn, I might give it a try. As for the blade, my decision is to get a suitable blade in the first order and glue the anti-spin rubber onto it immediately without moving it to other blades. However, you've been quite precise in your suggestion, and you've rightly noted not to go for a carbon blade...

Since 2015, when I got active again, I've tried at least 5 different carbon blades, primarily for the best feeling on the FH side. Strangely enough, even some reputable carbon blades simply didn't fully suit me for FH loops. With my technique, the ball always went lower than the desired parabola - than when I used a completely "wooden blade." "Opening" an FH loop against a strong underspin was much easier for me with a classic wooden blade than with a carbon one. I'm not saying I can't play FH spin well with a carbon blade, but it's much more satisfying for me when it's a plain wooden blade. Maybe I'm wrong in this consideration, as I've never really put in the effort to seriously try carbon blades. After borrowing one from a clubmate and trying it for an evening, I always returned to classic blades.

That's why I'm in great doubt between the following blades: Matador, Matador Texa, Matador Texa Carbon, DMS Deluxe Carbon. I would appreciate it if we could also discuss another important aspect – how good are these blades (that are "specialized" for LP and anti-spin rubbers) ... when it comes to executing powerful FH loops...

@Pongista92 (Andrea) ... I'll be free to address you as well. I just discovered your channel these days. Wow, what a game!!! Perfect!! I enjoyed watching some of your matches and dreamed that one day I could play like that . Haha, just kidding, of course ... I see that you use Stiga Carbonado for perfect FH and BH attacks with smooth rubber, and you do it excellently.

What are your opinions on the blades I mentioned above when it comes to attacking on both sides? Has anyone tried to do FH loops from at a greater distance with any of the blades I mentioned? I'm asking all this because I'm not well acquainted with the equipment, and I wouldn't want my FH to "take a back seat" due to the anti-spin rubber

Thank you all ...

_________________
1979-1991 Butterfly Gergely Gen 1&2, Butterfly Gergely Carbon, Sriver L

p..a..u..s..e 24 years

2015...

2023
Blade Matador
FH Tibhar MXP Max
BH ABS 2 Evo

Your plan sounds good, it usually takes some 6 months to really get used to a different rubber and playing style, and then some more time before you are at the same level as before (or above).

My favourite blade is Stiga Clipper (classic version). I just love that direct, yet kind of soft, feeling when looping FH with it. As well as the stiffness that gives a special feeling when blocking. Unfortunately, that blade is not very good with my anti rubbers. But I also like the Matador Texa, it has similar qualities as Clipper but at the same time it is very good with anti. Matador Texa actually is kind of a carbon blade, but the texa layer is more like glass fibre or textile I thinkt (from what I read at Neubauers web). So it is clearly faster and a little stiffer than Matador original, with larger sweet spot (very important when blocking with anti). The Matador Carbon, to me, felt more like DMS Deluxe Carbon and was difficult to FH loop with for me (lack of arc and spin). Stiga Carbonado 90 is a nice blade for anti, somewhere between Matador Texa and Deluxe Carbon, with some arc and spin, big sweet spot and very good control, yet some speed. Stiga Carbonado 190 for me is like Deluxe Carbon but a little faster, low arc and great control for that speed. But it also kills some of the spin reversal (with the antis I used to have) and does not generate much arc at loops, serves or pushes. Again, this is based on the rubbers I use and my technique. Andrea obviously can generate good spin with Carbonado 190.

Remember, Neubauer antis are not that sensitive to what blade thay are mounted on (except for ABS 3 I think). Barna/DMS antis are very sensitive to this, and it is rather difficult to tell what combinations will work.

_________________
Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

Yeah, flantis are quite picky when it comes to blade to be used with. If it is not stiff or hard enough, you won't get good reversal. On the other hand, a blade too stiff or hard doesn't give you room for making spin and good attacks. It's about finding the well-balanced blade (quite hard to do so), as mentioned above by Def-attack. As for the ABS 3, I've once heard it worked quite badly on a 5-ply allwood blade, but then greatly on a 7-ply carbon blade, both Stiga in this case. You might be getting some advices and tips, which is good. Only problem you won't one which one works best until you try them. You try one, you think it works good, but then there will always be the possibility another blade or rubber might work even better. This is a never-ending circle. Some players don't bother searching and stick to a particular setup and practice with that. I did the opposite, I kept searching and thank God I've found what I wanted (will try it soon).

Anyhow, you've got plenty of choices. Choose what feels right for you and try it.

Good luck.

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

@Def-attack ... Thank you for the thorough and precise answers. Your description of the blade's behavior on the FH side has greatly helped me in deciding what to order.

I will order the Matador Texa + ABS 2 Evo 1.8. I have some uncertainties regarding the gluing of this rubber... whether to glue it with only water-based glue or to use a gluing sheet as well?

All rubbers, even OX rubbers in our club, are glued with only water-based glue, without the use of a double-sided gluing sheet. Nobody practices such gluing. I glue OX rubbers using the "dry process," meaning with dried water-based glue. The same goes for all other rubbers. I've never glued an anti-spin rubber before.

As far as I'm concerned, the simplest approach would be to glue it like I do with all the others, using only water-based glue. However, based on what I've read and seen, almost everyone uses a gluing sheet for anti-spin rubbers. Matador Texa, from what I've been able to see and read, has a very glossy and lacquered surface on one side. I believe that on such a surface, Revolution 3 (normal) glue might be less effective and not adhere well to the rubber.

If I need to use a gluing sheet... does the rubber manufacturer include it with the rubber? If not, which gluing sheet do you recommend I order? I'm ordering everything as a complete set from tt11...

https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... uing-sheet
https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... sheet-plus
https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... e-film-duo

I know this has been discussed before, I've read about it on the forum... but let me ask again...

Or maybe a recommendation for a different gluing method that you practice, a method that allows the anti-spin rubber to be easily transferred and tried on a different blade?

@GregorTT425 .. it seems we wrote at the same time ... "This is a never-ending circle" ... I completely agree with you. ... I will try (at least I hope ) to stick to the setup this time and not do too many experiments. A question for you as well regarding the gluing of anti-spin rubber ...

_________________
1979-1991 Butterfly Gergely Gen 1&2, Butterfly Gergely Carbon, Sriver L

p..a..u..s..e 24 years

2015...

2023
Blade Matador
FH Tibhar MXP Max
BH ABS 2 Evo

I only use glue on the blade and the sponge. 2 on the sponge and 2 on the blade. You may want to watch out near the edges, as the glue usually lets the sponge go and little humps will be visible to you (for me at least it happened twice in a row). Try to put a little more glue near the edge of the blade to avoid this.

Good luck.

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

Just use water based glue with ABS. The rubber may have a pre-mounted glue sheet, then ad some water based glue anyway.

_________________
Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube