OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Quick question since this is going to be my first time attempting to glue a set of long pips OX to my blade. When applying water based glue, do I apply it to only the blade? Or, do I apply the glue to both the blade and rubber? Also, any helpful tips to gluing the OX? Thanks guys!

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My blade: Ross Leidy U-S-B
Talon in Red

I apply it to both blade and rubber. Then, find a sheet of wax paper or one of the waxy sheets like that which comes with some rubbers. Place the wax paper on the blade so that about an inch of the glue is exposed. Then lay the Ox rubber flat on the blade so that the wax paper is between the blade and rubber. Handle the Ox sheet very carefully so it doesn't stick to itself by accident which can lead to disaster! (Don't ask me how I know.) The glue will not stick to the wax paper.

Then with the blade handle facing in your direction, pick up the bottom edge of the sheet and slide it toward you until it is lined up with handle's top edge then let it down slowly. You will then have "stuck" down the first inch of the rubber. This is the part of the rubber that is the thinnest and most prone to bubbles. Smooth it out as much as you can and make sure it's stuck down well.

Finally, using a large roller of some kind, lift the rubber BACK over the roller (toward you) and again, be careful not to let the rubber get stuck to itself. Now you can peel off the wax paper, move it 2-3 inches, and repeat the process until done. Having done this dozens and dozens of times I can usually get the first inch stuck down, then roll the rubber on without having to move the wax paper multiple times. But at first it will safer to just creep along and stick it down an inch or so at a time.

If you wind up with any bubbles, it is usually fruitless to try and press them out unless they are right on the edge. After you've cut the rubber, take the point of an Xacto blade, sharp scissors or even a needle and carefully puncture the bubble. Then it should just press down and stick with thumb pressure.

Now, considering a totally different method, you might want to try using a glue sheet. I use Butterfly glue sheets which are more sticky on the rubber side than the blade side. Not only will this give a more even application than brushing on glue, but if you want to try the Ox sheet on different blades it will come off easily and can be re-applied just as easily. Glue sheets cost more than glue, but sure make applying Ox sheets a LOT easier. Some people say they don't like the feel of LPs with a glue sheet, but personally I can't feel any difference.

Some sheets come with a factory-installed glue sheet already attached...in that case there's probably a tension effect which makes the rubber bouncier and faster. Most players that I know usually remove the factory glue sheet. Don't cut the rubber until AFTER you've removed the factory glue sheet or it will probably shrink since it's under tension!

 

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Giant Dragon Kris Special : RITC 802 w/Dawei 2.2 35d fh : : Donic Blue Fire M3 2.0 black bh
Member of Charlotte Table Tennis Club, Charlotte, North Carolina, USA
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I agree with the advice that you have been given, except don't put glue on the back of ox rubber. Just put glue on the blade.

The trouble of gluing OX LP led me to sponge and I am never going back!

Thanks for the great informative advice! I was always perplexed when people recommended a cover sheet or wax paper, thought the glue would stick like crazy

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My blade: Ross Leidy U-S-B
Talon in Red

I've tried to answer this before but like the topic...I goofed up easily.

So I'll just tell you about the problems and hopefully you'll be alerted and may be better prepared to handle the situation...

OK First of all if you pre cut the oxlp you may miss the mark when you place it on the blade...

Secondly, if you dont precut and cut the the edges along ur blade, you may cut into the blade -

(solution to the above, use EPOXY! if I can do this you can...and I have found that this replaces edge tape, now I've done 5 more blades...its easy, well easer than varnishing my blade which makes it play faster...)

Thirdly, even if you lay it out right and use the wax paper trick, going up by thirds or whatever, you still might make a mistake and the rubber sticks to itself or there is an air bubbles....

soultion - STRETCH the LP! While the glue is still wet and a little shiny, you got a few seconds to rip off the oxlp and stretch it and put it back. Yes this will stretch the lp but it will condense later hopefully.

Fourthly, you use too much glue and didnt let it dry to a tacky state. AIR BUBBLE CITY

major problem here - you got to start over again. Let everything dry and peel off the ruber cement. Yes I use Elmers still so I can only advise with respect to this glue. I find that you should be aware of old thick cement and new runny cement because old stuff drys faster so you got less time. Also you should spread the cement evenly first and lightly and then do a circle/oval around the perimeter of the blade. Let the glue dry a little but not that much so You can still see a shinny surface but not gobs of gluey bubbles which will turn to air bubbles.

For best results, for me, using rubber cement, once you have covered the blade, and you have marked off in pencil where your rubber should be placed with respect to the handle, use two hands while holding the oxlp and place the bottom on first closest to the handle. Thenthen continue placing the oxlp right up to the tip of the head of the blade. Do this slowly...in thirds or halves...up to you. If there are low level bubbles dont worry just yet, first press on the logo like c1 said above, with your thumb and go across. Then cover the whole pip with clean paper and use the roller to try to roll them out. If thhe bubbles are really small, leave them because they may disappear with condensation or with normal play like magic with the impact of the ball. If there is a nasty bubble then peel off the affected rubber and stretch it and place it back on and press down on the entire blade with your hand as rubber cement will now tend to curl...hold it for a minutes until it looks ok to move a few heavy books to sit on top of the blade and pip.

GOOD LUCK...see its easy as PI=3.1something something...

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A big bag full of blades and long pimples, donuts and coffee!

It is much easier to apply OX pips with the water-based glue. I only apply the glue to the blade, not the rubber, and have never had a problem. You could always get a glue sheet too, that makes it easier as well.

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"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1725
Blade: Stiga Cybershape Carbon
FH Rubber: Butterfly Tenergy 19 2.1
BH Rubber: Dr Neubauer ABS3 1.5

The absolute best way to glue 0x pips is to use a sheet of non stick baking paper(obviously if you don't want any tension on the rubber leave out the stretching part and use water based glue):

For a new sheet first i glue the pips using VOC glue thinned with thinner. This stretches the sheet a bit already and increases the space between pips in both directions. Then I glue the blade and let it dry completely. Using a sheet of baking paper i cover 90% of the blade surface. I first attach the bottom of the rubber. Then I stretch the sheet vertically, move the baking paper up a bit, attach the next part of the rubber tapping from the center outwards left and right. I keep the rubber stretched all the time so there will be tension on the sheet similar to the tension old D-tecs had. Using this technique never gives me any trouble, even thin rubbers like meteorite and dornenglanz are easy to glue.

I'll see if I can make a video showing this technique.

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Win-tec power def Tibhar 5Q sound Power Update 1.8 * Spinlord Agenda ox
TSP Balsa 3.5 Tibhar Genius+Optimium sound 1.8 * Grass D-tecs ox

Put to rest:
Galaxy T10 Bluefire M2 2.0 Palio Ck531a ox
Victas Koji Matsushita Tibhar Genius+Optimium sound MAX * Spinlord Dornenglanz ox
Donic Defplay Senso Tibhar Aurus Sound Black max * Grass D-tecs ox

Check out my quest for my new blade here: http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=23241
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The only reason that I use rubber cement is that it simplifies the whole process on constructing the blade. Rubbers and blades choices are already enough. Then epoxy and varnish are thrown into the equation, ping pong starts to become a chore. For most people, I suspect, they just want to get on with playing and ordering a shipment of water-glue is just another step in the process...just speaking my mind no offence.

With respect to glue sheets, the glue is really strong and if you dont seal the blade, it will strip the surface. Thus you should ask for blade sealing service for all new purchases. My firewall plus, a more pricier option, comes presealed

With rubber cement I have not striped too many blades badly, water-based glue is a little stronger but my memory may in error here.

edit- I just removed the rubbers from my FW to apply another layer of epoxy...eventhough its sealed, tiny little specks of wood can be seen on my tsp p1r ox so the glue is really strong on the glue sheets. However on the flip side I easily peeled off my Super Power XP 1.8 adhered with rubber cement on the blade only - no strips!

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A big bag full of blades and long pimples, donuts and coffee!

Here's a new method that I using tonight with a precut ox sp.

(If someone has has the patent on this, no disrespect, just thought of it now without checking through the ooak archives)

Here is what I will do tonight:

Lay out the pre cut rubber right on the blade so it fits.
Lift the base upwards by about a third.
Then apply the glue right on the blade while holding the bottom part of the rubber flapped up with one hand.
This will cover the bottom part of the blade by about a third.
Cover the whole blade with paper and roll out the ox sp.
Cover with heavy books since I choose to use cement.

Wait for 20 min or so and repeat for another third of the rubber.

Repeat once more for the last third of the rubber. NO WAX SHEET REQUIRED, NO STRETCHING...WHY DIDNT I THINK OF THIS BEFORE (The most that will go wrong would be some uneveness at the thirds going up the blade)

It should work in theory but ...

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A big bag full of blades and long pimples, donuts and coffee!

My method almost like timeout above.
I use diluted Copydex. Depending on how hot the weather is, I will dilute accordingly. My dilution is no more than 30% water.
OK, firstly, I place the cut OX LP on the blade and adjust till I am satisfied.
I then fold down the top (away from handle) half way exposing the blade. I apply the diluted Copydex on the blade.
After that, I gently (while taking care to hold the label area to keep the rubber in place) unfold and put that top part of the rubber on blade.
Now I fold up the bottom half of the rubber until I see about half cm of the part of the blade that had some Copydex already.
I now apply the Copydex on this bottom half of blade.
Now, I gently put back the bottom half of rubber.
I would then clamp the bat till the glue dry. Usually takes about 2 or 3 hours, depending on weather.

I am able to do above because the diluted Copydex don't dry very fast. Also, it being wet, any excess glue will easily get squeezed out. When dry, the OX lp sticks beautifully.

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Main Setup: There is NO such thing
Table Tennis Directory | Rubber Mass Database I | Rubber Mass Database II | Sponge Hardness Database

Thanks to someone else's advice here (can't remember who deserves the credit ) I use another method now, which work brilliantly for me. It's using a glue sheet, but not to attach it to the blade...

Take off just one side off the glue sheet... which leaves a fairly rigid sheet which is sticky just one one side. Lay the OX sheet on a flat surface so that's it's completely flat. Now put the glue sheet on there with the adhesive side on the pimple. Gently push it down with a roller. Now the combined sheet feels quite rigid and can easily be handled... similar to an inverted sheet.

Glue both the OX sheet and the blade like an inverted sheet, and when ready lay the rigid sheet onto the blade as usual. Then gently peel off the glue sheet. Since the glue sheet is only held on by the tips of the pimples, it comes off quite easily. THe glue sheet can be re-used for next time (put the cover back on the sticky side).

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OOAK Table Tennis Shop | Re-Impact Blades | Butterfly Table Tennis bats
Setup1: Re-Impact Smart, Viper OX, Victas VS 401 Setup2: Re-Impact Barath, Dtecs OX, TSP Triple Spin Chop 1.0mm Setup3: Re-Impact Dark Knight, Hellfire OX, 999 Turbo
Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide

Brilliantly simple. Simply brilliant. Thanks a lot!

(Haven't tried it yet, but I am sure that must be the best solution. Gluesheet will be in my next order.)

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My blog of failures, etc., also containing equipment list at "resurrection" (referred to in a few of my early posts), and my current lineup
Rating in the middle/low range in the region.
Moderating the LP Attacking subforum in the Technique section.

Next time I glue one, I'll take some pictures (or even a video ), so that I can show how well it works.

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OOAK Table Tennis Shop | Re-Impact Blades | Butterfly Table Tennis bats
Setup1: Re-Impact Smart, Viper OX, Victas VS 401 Setup2: Re-Impact Barath, Dtecs OX, TSP Triple Spin Chop 1.0mm Setup3: Re-Impact Dark Knight, Hellfire OX, 999 Turbo
Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide

I was terrified the first several times I glued OX to a blade.

I put glue on the blade. I set the rubber on a clear, rigid plastic sheet. I set the plastic on the blade. This helps with alignment. Then I do as others suggest above and inch the plastic up the blade and then press the rubber on to the blade by pressing from the middle out toward the edges of the blade. I simply work my way up. Takes about 2 or 3 minutes