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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2021, 16:44 
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iskandar taib wrote:
I hate it when people use acronyms.. I had to go look it up.. :lol:

The "YEO" is apparently this:

https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... -power-pen

It's a 7 ply, EUR41, OFF+, 89 gram blade with "light carbon".

and the "YSE" is this:

https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... tra-ch-pen

It's a 5 ply, EUR26, ALL+, 82 gram blade, all wood. Essentially the same thing as a Stiga Allround Classic.

The "YSE" fits the criteria I listed earlier. The "YEO" is considerably heavier and a lot faster. What's going to happen if you get a "YEO"? You'll be hitting your shots off the table, and developing gimpy strokes to compensate.

OUTGROWING the "YSE"???? Heck, you could be rated over 2500 and not "outgrow" the "YSE". Lots of players this level use that same general type of blade, and haven't moved to anything faster for very good reasons. It'd be a LONG TIME before you "outgrow" the "YSE". Most likely never. Getting the "YEO" would actually HURT. You'd hurt your control, your strokes, your serves, your wrist, your fingers. Penhold bats are meant to be lightweight, adding the second sheet for RPB means a lot of added weight. Add a heavy blade, and it's even worse.

Iskandar


Thanks, but like others said we were talking about the original Yasaka Extra Offensive 5ply. However i dont know why manny people say the Sweden Extra is too slow and i would outgrow it. They probably dont know what they are talking about and probably the Sweden Extra is a far better-more controllable allround stick for the developing player!
even pro-s were using it at some time (gatiex extra)

it baffles my mind that the Sweden Extra is such a popular blade but i cant even find out how the Rakza 7 or Rakza 7 soft behaves on it vs lets say Mark V or Sriver and I have been searching all over the internet

but what is even funnier is that people recommend some clones for a blade that costs 30euro. I mean... i think most of us can afford a 30e blade so stop with the clones. If i would want a clone the I would mention that in the first post. I rather have one good blade than 5 fakes - even if they are good.
we are talking only of Yasaka gear here.

What is even funnier is that these guys who recommend 10euro alibaba clone blades actually use premium blades that cost over 150euro in their own setup. isnt this funny?


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2021, 18:03 
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kajetan wrote:
iskandar taib wrote:
I hate it when people use acronyms.. I had to go look it up.. :lol:

The "YEO" is apparently this:

https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... -power-pen

It's a 7 ply, EUR41, OFF+, 89 gram blade with "light carbon".

and the "YSE" is this:

https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... tra-ch-pen

It's a 5 ply, EUR26, ALL+, 82 gram blade, all wood. Essentially the same thing as a Stiga Allround Classic.

The "YSE" fits the criteria I listed earlier. The "YEO" is considerably heavier and a lot faster. What's going to happen if you get a "YEO"? You'll be hitting your shots off the table, and developing gimpy strokes to compensate.

OUTGROWING the "YSE"???? Heck, you could be rated over 2500 and not "outgrow" the "YSE". Lots of players this level use that same general type of blade, and haven't moved to anything faster for very good reasons. It'd be a LONG TIME before you "outgrow" the "YSE". Most likely never. Getting the "YEO" would actually HURT. You'd hurt your control, your strokes, your serves, your wrist, your fingers. Penhold bats are meant to be lightweight, adding the second sheet for RPB means a lot of added weight. Add a heavy blade, and it's even worse.

Iskandar


Thanks, but like others said we were talking about the original Yasaka Extra Offensive 5ply. However i dont know why manny people say the Sweden Extra is too slow and i would outgrow it. They probably dont know what they are talking about and probably the Sweden Extra is a far better-more controllable allround stick for the developing player!
even pro-s were using it at some time (gatiex extra)

it baffles my mind that the Sweden Extra is such a popular blade but i cant even find out how the Rakza 7 or Rakza 7 soft behaves on it vs lets say Mark V or Sriver and I have been searching all over the internet

but what is even funnier is that people recommend some clones for a blade that costs 30euro. I mean... i think most of us can afford a 30e blade so stop with the clones. If i would want a clone the I would mention that in the first post. I rather have one good blade than 5 fakes - even if they are good.
we are talking only of Yasaka gear here.

What is even funnier is that these guys who recommend 10euro alibaba clone blades actually use premium blades that cost over 150euro in their own setup. isnt this funny?


Yinhe, Sanwei, 729 aren't fakes or clones. Buy some Yasaka Sweden or Ma Lin /Stiga Classic Allround or offensive + Yasaka Rakza Soft and some Yinhe blades and Palio Hadou 40+ rubbers and then you'll find that the european/japanese brands are overrated.

Give us some videos to see your level before asking advices.


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2021, 18:23 
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So what i have found out, The Yasaka Sweden Extra main combos are: (reverse penhold backhand)
fh: Mark V bh: Mark V
fh: Mark V bh: Rakza 7 soft
fh: Xium Sigma Pro bh: Xium Sigma Euro
fh: Rakza 7 bh: Rakza 7 soft
fh: Mark V Hps
fh: Yasaka Rising Dragon bh: Mark V
fh: Yasaka Shining Dragon bh: Rakza 7 soft
fh: Nittaku Fastarc G-1 bh:?

the most popular are Mark V, Rakza and the Dragons.
Rakza 7 soft is often found on the RPB. i wonder why?
but the king by far is Mark V for now.

I guess either im gonna go with 2x Mark V, 2x Rakza 7 oor 2x Rakza 7 soft. hard decision.

some people choose Mark V hsp too,but the original is more used.


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2021, 18:25 
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Aurelian wrote:
kajetan wrote:
iskandar taib wrote:
I hate it when people use acronyms.. I had to go look it up.. :lol:

The "YEO" is apparently this:

https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... -power-pen

It's a 7 ply, EUR41, OFF+, 89 gram blade with "light carbon".

and the "YSE" is this:

https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... tra-ch-pen

It's a 5 ply, EUR26, ALL+, 82 gram blade, all wood. Essentially the same thing as a Stiga Allround Classic.

The "YSE" fits the criteria I listed earlier. The "YEO" is considerably heavier and a lot faster. What's going to happen if you get a "YEO"? You'll be hitting your shots off the table, and developing gimpy strokes to compensate.

OUTGROWING the "YSE"???? Heck, you could be rated over 2500 and not "outgrow" the "YSE". Lots of players this level use that same general type of blade, and haven't moved to anything faster for very good reasons. It'd be a LONG TIME before you "outgrow" the "YSE". Most likely never. Getting the "YEO" would actually HURT. You'd hurt your control, your strokes, your serves, your wrist, your fingers. Penhold bats are meant to be lightweight, adding the second sheet for RPB means a lot of added weight. Add a heavy blade, and it's even worse.

Iskandar


Thanks, but like others said we were talking about the original Yasaka Extra Offensive 5ply. However i dont know why manny people say the Sweden Extra is too slow and i would outgrow it. They probably dont know what they are talking about and probably the Sweden Extra is a far better-more controllable allround stick for the developing player!
even pro-s were using it at some time (gatiex extra)

it baffles my mind that the Sweden Extra is such a popular blade but i cant even find out how the Rakza 7 or Rakza 7 soft behaves on it vs lets say Mark V or Sriver and I have been searching all over the internet

but what is even funnier is that people recommend some clones for a blade that costs 30euro. I mean... i think most of us can afford a 30e blade so stop with the clones. If i would want a clone the I would mention that in the first post. I rather have one good blade than 5 fakes - even if they are good.
we are talking only of Yasaka gear here.

What is even funnier is that these guys who recommend 10euro alibaba clone blades actually use premium blades that cost over 150euro in their own setup. isnt this funny?


Yinhe, Sanwei, 729 aren't fakes or clones. Buy some Yasaka Sweden or Ma Lin /Stiga Classic Allround or offensive + Yasaka Rakza Soft and some Yinhe blades and Palio Hadou 40+ rubbers and then you'll find that the european/japanese brands are overrated.

Give us some videos to see your level before asking advices.


i guess they are similar blades, just cheaper. i dont know man :) 3 0euro is not a lot for me,since i come from tennis and a string job usually costs 20euro.

i shouldnt called them clones though!so i take it back. i would like to thank to everyone for helping me


Last edited by kajetan on 28 Jun 2021, 21:01, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2021, 18:38 
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There's no 3Euro, Palio Hadou 40+ is about 10 euro/rubber not sheet, Yinhe blades prices are starting from 10USD and you'll find some blades like the Yinhe V14 Pro which is about 30USD and is used by the former amateur & actual Chinese Super League Player Zhu Yi. And you'll find also very good "training" for les than USD 10/sheet rubbers as Yinhe Mercury 2 and Kokutaku 868, they are called "training rubbers" because they are very long lasting, their topsheet is a bit harder but in time it becomes more elastic and softer.

I consider myself still a beginner after almost 3 years of enthuastic play, here I put a match from yesterday when I have been almost humiliated in the first 2 sets and almost lost 0-3 but I fought back with my Yinhe agains Dignics and Tenergy 05 :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7nxAXGfxmU


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2021, 22:58 
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Blade: DHS Hurricane Hao II
FH: DHS Hurricane III NEO Pro
BH: Nittaku FastArc-G1
kajetan wrote:
So what i have found out, The Yasaka Sweden Extra main combos are: (reverse penhold backhand)
fh: Mark V bh: Mark V
fh: Mark V bh: Rakza 7 soft
fh: Xium Sigma Pro bh: Xium Sigma Euro
fh: Rakza 7 bh: Rakza 7 soft
fh: Mark V Hps
fh: Yasaka Rising Dragon bh: Mark V
fh: Yasaka Shining Dragon bh: Rakza 7 soft
fh: Nittaku Fastarc G-1 bh:?

the most popular are Mark V, Rakza and the Dragons.
Rakza 7 soft is often found on the RPB. i wonder why?
but the king by far is Mark V for now.

I guess either im gonna go with 2x Mark V, 2x Rakza 7 oor 2x Rakza 7 soft. hard decision.

some people choose Mark V hsp too,but the original is more used.
I think the original mark v is older thus more widely used? I could be wrong.

I don’t think you can go wrong with either rubber (Mark V & R7) on the YSE.
I don’t have much experience with Mark V but I think R7 is a little faster. I’m not sure about the soft variant comparing to Mark V.

I’ve seen people play extremely well with both.

R7s is used on Bh as it’s got good feel and dwell which is a good feeling for RPB.

Yasaka RD and SD are not bad options either. Funny- when I did lots internet research when I was a beginner, I ended up trying those rubbers too.

My vote for you is: Mark V fh / R7s Bh.

Now get playing!


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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2021, 11:40 
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kajetan wrote:

Thanks, but like others said we were talking about the original Yasaka Extra Offensive 5ply. However i dont know why manny people say the Sweden Extra is too slow and i would outgrow it. They probably dont know what they are talking about and probably the Sweden Extra is a far better-more controllable allround stick for the developing player!
even pro-s were using it at some time (gatiex extra)


There are lots of fanboys of fast carbon blades out there. Maybe they like being able to stick their hand out and letting the ball bounce back. After all, SOMEONE must be buying these ultra-fast blades.

kajetan wrote:

it baffles my mind that the Sweden Extra is such a popular blade but i cant even find out how the Rakza 7 or Rakza 7 soft behaves on it vs lets say Mark V or Sriver and I have been searching all over the internet



Is it worth drilling down to this level of detail? It's not going to matter nearly as much as you seem to think it does. The differences between rubbers is subtle - yes, there are differences but people make too much of these differences. In actual fact most of the time you can try different rubbers back to back and you can't really tell the difference. If Evolution MX-P will "work" on a blade Rakza 7 will also "work" on a blade. So will H3 (though it'll feel considerably slower). But it will work, you'll be able to play with it more or less using the same strokes, once you've gotten used to it.

Blades, on the other hand, differ dramatically from each other. Blades will actually affect the way you play, even.

kajetan wrote:
but what is even funnier is that people recommend some clones for a blade that costs 30euro. I mean... i think most of us can afford a 30e blade so stop with the clones. If i would want a clone the I would mention that in the first post. I rather have one good blade than 5 fakes - even if they are good.
we are talking only of Yasaka gear here.
What is even funnier is that these guys who recommend 10euro alibaba clone blades actually use premium blades that cost over 150euro in their own setup. isnt this funny?


Clones, huh? Well, making blades isn't exactly rocket science. Choose wood, glue together, cut to shape. Lots and lots of prior art to look at, no one actually patents blades. I've bought expensive blades, I've bought cheap blades. Chinese blades are relatively inexpensive not because they're "clones" or made cheaply, they're cheap because they're made in China and meant to be sold on the Chinese market. I paid aEUR28 and lot of shipping for a Stiga Allround Classic once, because I wanted to "see what I was missing" - maybe there was something magical about a blade from Sweden (pretty much all European blades - Stiga, Donic, Yasaka even - are made in this huge factory in Sweden), since there was so much talk about them. Boy, was that a disappointment. The blade came with a little sticker saying "Proudly made in Sweden". The build quality wasn't any better than the Yinhe N11s I had at the time (they were cheap, I was playing with three of them, weight-matched), in fact, the lens on the handle was a little crooked. (Come to think of it, those N11s had the best faces I've ever seen on a blade, they were so smooth it was tactile heaven to open a new one and touch it.) How did it play? Fine, sure, but not any better than anything else I had. Today it sits in a tote bag. Later I went on a spending spree and bought several seven ply Hinoki blades. Yes, they're nice (and VERY NICELY made, especially the Darker) BUT these days they live in a tote bag, haven't touched them in years. Maybe I should give the Darker another try, it was light and moderate in speed.

I can't comment on the guys who play with the EUR150 blades - I'm not one of them. I use M8s (they're so cheap I've got quite a few).

Alas wrote:
I think the original mark v is older thus more widely used? I could be wrong.


Is Mark V still being used much any more? "Older" is an understatement - Mark V and Sriver were the two top rubbers circa 1970. Rakza 7 came out sometime in the last decade, it's a lot newer, and strangely enough, faster (given it's soft nature).

Alas wrote:
I don’t think you can go wrong with either rubber (Mark V & R7) on the YSE.
I don’t have much experience with Mark V but I think R7 is a little faster. I’m not sure about the soft variant comparing to Mark V.

I’ve seen people play extremely well with both.

R7s is used on Bh as it’s got good feel and dwell which is a good feeling for RPB.


Heck, Xu Xin uses Tenergy 05... :lol: That'd work, too.. The reason the Chinese like Tenergy on the backhand is they can't make as much power on the backhand so they go with something faster than the H3 on the forehand.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2021, 17:38 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Is it worth drilling down to this level of detail? It's not going to matter nearly as much as you seem to think it does. The differences between rubbers is subtle - yes, there are differences but people make too much of these differences. In actual fact most of the time you can try different rubbers back to back and you can't really tell the difference. Iskandar

I completely disagree with this. To me the rubber makes a HUGE difference to my game, and I can very clearly feel the difference between rubbers, especially between Chinese and Japanese/German rubbers. The difference is most obvious when you loop the ball. The feel, arc, catapult, speed and even the sound is quite different in most cases.

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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2021, 17:52 
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iskandar taib wrote:
kajetan wrote:

Thanks, but like others said we were talking about the original Yasaka Extra Offensive 5ply. However i dont know why manny people say the Sweden Extra is too slow and i would outgrow it. They probably dont know what they are talking about and probably the Sweden Extra is a far better-more controllable allround stick for the developing player!
even pro-s were using it at some time (gatiex extra)


There are lots of fanboys of fast carbon blades out there. Maybe they like being able to stick their hand out and letting the ball bounce back. After all, SOMEONE must be buying these ultra-fast blades.

kajetan wrote:

it baffles my mind that the Sweden Extra is such a popular blade but i cant even find out how the Rakza 7 or Rakza 7 soft behaves on it vs lets say Mark V or Sriver and I have been searching all over the internet



Is it worth drilling down to this level of detail? It's not going to matter nearly as much as you seem to think it does. The differences between rubbers is subtle - yes, there are differences but people make too much of these differences. In actual fact most of the time you can try different rubbers back to back and you can't really tell the difference. If Evolution MX-P will "work" on a blade Rakza 7 will also "work" on a blade. So will H3 (though it'll feel considerably slower). But it will work, you'll be able to play with it more or less using the same strokes, once you've gotten used to it.

Blades, on the other hand, differ dramatically from each other. Blades will actually affect the way you play, even.

kajetan wrote:
but what is even funnier is that people recommend some clones for a blade that costs 30euro. I mean... i think most of us can afford a 30e blade so stop with the clones. If i would want a clone the I would mention that in the first post. I rather have one good blade than 5 fakes - even if they are good.
we are talking only of Yasaka gear here.
What is even funnier is that these guys who recommend 10euro alibaba clone blades actually use premium blades that cost over 150euro in their own setup. isnt this funny?


Clones, huh? Well, making blades isn't exactly rocket science. Choose wood, glue together, cut to shape. Lots and lots of prior art to look at, no one actually patents blades. I've bought expensive blades, I've bought cheap blades. Chinese blades are relatively inexpensive not because they're "clones" or made cheaply, they're cheap because they're made in China and meant to be sold on the Chinese market. I paid aEUR28 and lot of shipping for a Stiga Allround Classic once, because I wanted to "see what I was missing" - maybe there was something magical about a blade from Sweden (pretty much all European blades - Stiga, Donic, Yasaka even - are made in this huge factory in Sweden), since there was so much talk about them. Boy, was that a disappointment. The blade came with a little sticker saying "Proudly made in Sweden". The build quality wasn't any better than the Yinhe N11s I had at the time (they were cheap, I was playing with three of them, weight-matched), in fact, the lens on the handle was a little crooked. (Come to think of it, those N11s had the best faces I've ever seen on a blade, they were so smooth it was tactile heaven to open a new one and touch it.) How did it play? Fine, sure, but not any better than anything else I had. Today it sits in a tote bag. Later I went on a spending spree and bought several seven ply Hinoki blades. Yes, they're nice (and VERY NICELY made, especially the Darker) BUT these days they live in a tote bag, haven't touched them in years. Maybe I should give the Darker another try, it was light and moderate in speed.

I can't comment on the guys who play with the EUR150 blades - I'm not one of them. I use M8s (they're so cheap I've got quite a few).

Alas wrote:
I think the original mark v is older thus more widely used? I could be wrong.


Is Mark V still being used much any more? "Older" is an understatement - Mark V and Sriver were the two top rubbers circa 1970. Rakza 7 came out sometime in the last decade, it's a lot newer, and strangely enough, faster (given it's soft nature).

Alas wrote:
I don’t think you can go wrong with either rubber (Mark V & R7) on the YSE.
I don’t have much experience with Mark V but I think R7 is a little faster. I’m not sure about the soft variant comparing to Mark V.

I’ve seen people play extremely well with both.

R7s is used on Bh as it’s got good feel and dwell which is a good feeling for RPB.


Heck, Xu Xin uses Tenergy 05... :lol: That'd work, too.. The reason the Chinese like Tenergy on the backhand is they can't make as much power on the backhand so they go with something faster than the H3 on the forehand.

Iskandar[/qheard

i heard tenergy is meant only to be played by profesionals or really really good players..powerful but less control


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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2021, 17:57 
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The decision has fallen,thanks to all. I will order

blade: Yasaka Sweden Extra c.pen
FH: Rakza 7 soft 2.0 or 1.8
BH: Rakza 7 soft 2.0 or 1.8

i think, for me it is important to have two same rubers to get them know well on both sides. If this setup will be too fast for me I will step down to Mark V on both sides, or Sriver EL.

I think I can keep this setup for years because I will stay at a local level and i will play only recreational tournaments.
Less speed and more control this is what I aiming for,this is also why I decided against the Yasaka Extra Offensive blade. Sweden offers more control and with combination of the semi-modern Rakza 7 soft rubber this combo should offer everything and A LOT of spin.


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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2021, 22:55 
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Congrats on deciding! Hope you feel good now. :)


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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2021, 23:23 
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kajetan wrote:
The decision has fallen,thanks to all. I will order

blade: Yasaka Sweden Extra c.pen
FH: Rakza 7 soft 2.0 or 1.8
BH: Rakza 7 soft 2.0 or 1.8

i think, for me it is important to have two same rubers to get them know well on both sides. If this setup will be too fast for me I will step down to Mark V on both sides, or Sriver EL.

I think I can keep this setup for years because I will stay at a local level and i will play only recreational tournaments.
Less speed and more control this is what I aiming for,this is also why I decided against the Yasaka Extra Offensive blade. Sweden offers more control and with combination of the semi-modern Rakza 7 soft rubber this combo should offer everything and A LOT of spin.


I'd get maximum sponge if I were you. No need to skimp, the ball is bigger and slower these days. The max sponge will help you develop more spin, and that will let you hit the ball faster. If you don't twiddle (why would anyone twiddle a bat like this? :lol: ) it won't make any difference if you use the same or different rubbers on each side. In any case, don't worry about whether the bat is adequate - getting a "better" bat won't help you win any more games at tournaments, nor will your bat hold you back in whatever tournaments you enter. Your playing level and how much and how well you practice is what will hold you back.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2021, 23:48 
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kajetan wrote:
i heard tenergy is meant only to be played by profesionals or really really good players..powerful but less control


There are all sorts of rubbers that make this sort of claim. Or lots of people make this claim about certain rubbers. Tibhar Evolution MX-P actually says it on the packet. I've used MX-P and Tenergy 05, I'm just a low-level club player, and I didn't find either rubber difficult to use. For the sort of price I paid for Tenergy 05, I was expecting either some sort of super rubber that was so fast it was difficult to control, OR a super rubber that would immediately add 50 points to my rating. To my bitter disappointment, it turned out to be an easy-to-use rubber that played well, but not any better that I could tell from all the other rubbers I've tried. :lol: Needless to say that was the last and only sheet of it I ever bought. Same with MX-P. Yeah, sure, maybe if I were rated 2500+ I might have found it necessary to keep buying T05 (it seems the vast majority of International level pros believe this to be the case) but for me, it wasn't any better than, say, (what WAS that thing called) Three Sword Red Dragon. I suppose if I had been using one of those OFF++ carbon blades I might have found Tenergy 05 to be too fast, but then again Rakza 7 would probably have been too fast as well.

By the way - Three Sword Red Dragon: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32658493625.html

I bought it because it makes the claim that it is "Better than Butterf--- Tenerg--- !". :lol:

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: C-pen blade for an
PostPosted: 30 Jun 2021, 00:18 
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Ch3nM3ng wrote:
Anything slow and Chinese on forehand (Black). There are lots of options but these days there are better and more affordable options than commercial Hurricane 3. It's just not worth buying anymore.
There's Yinhe Mercury 2, Yinhe Mars 2, Yinhe Big Dipper, Loki Rxton V, Palio AK47 hard, Reactor Tornado, Reactor Ckylin... All viable options for forehand, all as good as if not better than Hurricane 3.


Oh heck no.. Anything but Ckylin! :lol: It's like a very tacky anti (if that isn't an oxymoron, nothing is.. :lol: ) - the closest thing to it would probably be Tackiness Chop.. WAY too slow unless you're a chopper or blocker, and you can't get it in thin sponge. I love how they claim it's "Chinese Blue Thunder". :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 30 Jun 2021, 00:38 
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Blade: DHS Hurricane Hao II
FH: DHS Hurricane III NEO Pro
BH: Nittaku FastArc-G1
iskandar taib wrote:
kajetan wrote:
The decision has fallen,thanks to all. I will order

blade: Yasaka Sweden Extra c.pen
FH: Rakza 7 soft 2.0 or 1.8
BH: Rakza 7 soft 2.0 or 1.8

i think, for me it is important to have two same rubers to get them know well on both sides. If this setup will be too fast for me I will step down to Mark V on both sides, or Sriver EL.

I think I can keep this setup for years because I will stay at a local level and i will play only recreational tournaments.
Less speed and more control this is what I aiming for,this is also why I decided against the Yasaka Extra Offensive blade. Sweden offers more control and with combination of the semi-modern Rakza 7 soft rubber this combo should offer everything and A LOT of spin.


I'd get maximum sponge if I were you. No need to skimp, the ball is bigger and slower these days. The max sponge will help you develop more spin, and that will let you hit the ball faster. If you don't twiddle (why would anyone twiddle a bat like this? :lol: ) it won't make any difference if you use the same or different rubbers on each side. In any case, don't worry about whether the bat is adequate - getting a "better" bat won't help you win any more games at tournaments, nor will your bat hold you back in whatever tournaments you enter. Your playing level and how much and how well you practice is what will hold you back.

Iskandar
100% agree with this


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