OOAK Table Tennis Forum

+1

But Carbon Deluxe is a rather extreme blade that can be tricky to master with FH if you are used to more soft and defensive blades. Stiga Allround Carbon could be a nice option if you want a blade that you can use with other rubbers than frictionless anti (I have heard that it works well with frictionless anti, but also for LP ox, Swedish defender Gustaf Ericsson used to have that blade not long ago). Neubauer Matador (or the stiffer and faster Matador Texa) should work fine.

One of the best blades for Diabolic ES, that is also not so extreme as Deluxe Carbon, is Barna Original Victory (I have a friend who is very satisfied with this combination, along with H8 on FH). It is exactly the same blade as Amir's Barna Triumph but with thinner main veneers, making it less fast and stiff. The Triumph is a little similar to Deluxe but more difficult to loop with and smaller sweet spot.

I have not tried any of the blades you listed, but stiff hard blades, without balsa, is good. Carbon layers ususally helps. The blade should have low throw and short dwell time. So of those you listed I guess Timo Boll ALC come closest?

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

Thanks for those quick replies. Btw, I''m from Philippines and I don't get a lot of information from clubs here as there are very few anti users. I think i've only played against anti twice and didn't have a chance to talk with them.
From my blades listed, I thought you will suggest stiga def nct or tibhar cos3 since those 2 are my slowest blades but i was wrong.
For looping, I think and I believe that I'lll not have any issues transitioning from def to off since i used to be an off player and I was using LP for a year with a clipper type of blade.
With those inputs, my options are below.
1. Save money and try my TB ALC as suggested by def-attack but my reservation is that tb alc is known to be higher throw than viscaria
2. Save money and try my viscaria since it has a lower throw than tb alc but almost the same speed with it, or
3. Get the best of what you have suggested which is dms carbon deluxe. This one is either a hit or a miss if I will like it or not and I want to avoid adding blades to my closet.

But, I want my anti/diabolic es experience to be exceptional that I'll make myself converted from LP ox to anti. Otherwise, hate anti at all.
I also have some video clips of my matches below which I think would help you guys suggest if anti would suit my game specifically if tb alc/viscaria with diabolic es would be good enough or should I really get dms deluxe carbon or should i stick with my lp ox setup.




If you're in my position, what would be the best option?DMS deluxe is on sale now at tt11.
Hoping for more enlightenment.
TIA

I'm in the process of doing exactly what you are going to do - transition from OX long pips to anti, while still maintain the ability to attack. I had the same price concern as you about the Deluxe Carbon. Not knowing if this style would work out for me, I purchased a more moderate option, the Dr Neubauer Matador. And I LOVE it. I think that even if I went back to OX long pips that I would continue to use this blade.
Coming from the Donic Defplay Senso V3, it's taking some adjustment in my stroke. On the forehand, it's much faster than the defensive Defplay. So I'm learning to take shorter strokes, because it doesn't take nearly as much effort to hit a fast shot. I used to have more of a brush loop stroke but am working on transitioning to a stroke where I drive through the ball more on loops and doing more flat hitting. Using that blade with Evolution MX-P really fires some hard shots with minimal effort. And it blocks like a dream on the forehand.
It really is counter to what you would think, having a faster, stiffer blade to keep the ball shorter with anti, but it really is true. The folks here in the forum really are on point that you need the more stiff blade type to get the most out of the anti.
I'm using Scandal and seeing a lot of potential with it. I've only been using it a couple of months now, and thanks to some coaching I'm getting, I feel like my level is already up to that of what I was with the OX long pips last year. That's why I feel like I have a lot of potential with this style.
It's going to take a lot of adjustment. So don't get too frustrated. The best advice I can offer is to get some coaching. If you don't have access to a coach, find a player who will drill with you. It takes a LOT of repetition to learn the blade angle differences and how to handle slower balls and flat balls. I'd also highly recommend watching the videos of Amir that are here and you can find on the internet. There are some really good ones on the DMS YouTube channel. Watch how quickly he takes balls off the bounce, how he handles slower loops, how he moves the other player around in shot combinations. I've watched his videos multiple times as I learn this style, and he really is an inspiration for me right now.

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"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1725
Blade: Stiga Cybershape Carbon
FH Rubber: Butterfly Tenergy 19 2.1
BH Rubber: Dr Neubauer ABS3 1.5

Thanks dwruck and i found someone on the same page as me.
so adding to my dilemma is matador.
Matador and deluxe carbon are availble in tt1 from my place.
I forgot to mention that stiga def pro and yinhet6 are available here and I also read that yinhe t6 is also good for antis.

I'm giving myself 3days to decide. To order from tt11 (dms deluxe/matador), to buy locally (stiga def pro or T6) or use my tb alc/viscaria.

I hope that my video clips would help a lot with your advice.

Do not take a slow blade like defplay senso or cos-3. You need a stiff/hard off- blade a least. It will be way too slow and inoffensive otherwise despite the fact that you can find it comfortable to play with a slow blade.

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Viscaria Super ZLC
FH - Tuttle G20 President
BH - Slick antispin

Thanks mate. Good thing i’ve asked. my anti is saved from slow def blades.

Yinhe T-blades should work if you choose a stiff with low throw.

Remember to seal the blade and that once you have attached the anti you should not move it. It looses a lot of its feel and spin reversal when removed and attached to another blade. If you glue with only a little glue on the blade and on the sponge you can move it between blades but the effect is better if you use glue sheet. But removing it if glue sheet is used, without wrecking the top sheet, is very difficult.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

The thing that makes this choice difficult is, these antis are extremely difficult to get off a blade once you put it on it. Once it's on there, that's pretty much it, due to the nature of the sponge and topsheet. Normally, I'd recommend saving yourself the money and just trying it on one of the blades you already own that is more stiff and offense focused. I do not have any experience with the ones you have right now, so I cannot help with that assessment.
If you can get a good price on one of those locally, I might go with that. The blades from TT11 you are considering are great, but maybe you can save yourself some money (and wait time). If you get a less expensive blade, find out you like the anti, you can always get something a little more expensive down the line.
One thing you will have to be sure to do is stay at the table. I noticed that you sometimes back off the table when your opponent is getting ready to hit a big loop. Again, I'll refer you to Amir's videos. He stays right at the table in all cases. Taking the ball as quickly as possible will get you the best spin reversal and lowest shots. Off the table, you'll be easy to attack, and it will be difficult to get the ball back over the net.
One of the things that is taking the longest for me is learning to hold my wrist stiff and still on all shots. When I played OX long pips close to the table, I frequently chop blocked the ball with a wrist motion. On all shots with anti, your wrist should be steady. You can cut across the ball, but it has to be a steady wrist with a side/forward motion. Coming straight across the back of the ball, or using a wrist "chop" type of stroke will end up poorly.
The other thing I'll say, I've found that the better the player, the better the anti works. The spin and pace from better players is ideal for the anti. I find that against some players rated lower than me I struggle a little right now, because they just don't give me the spin and pace on the ball, and I'm learning how to deal with that.
I'm having a blast on this journey. Have fun with it and don't get frustrated quickly, it will take a lot of adjustment and training time.

_________________
"The greatest teacher, failure is"
USATT Rating: 1725
Blade: Stiga Cybershape Carbon
FH Rubber: Butterfly Tenergy 19 2.1
BH Rubber: Dr Neubauer ABS3 1.5

I agree with most of what Dwruck is saying. But when attacking back spin with your anti, using an aggressive push, you should not use a stiff wrist. If you attack back spin like Amir does, with a top spin motion, you should start learning that with a stiff wrist. But it is more easy to attack a push just pushing as hard as you can with the anti. This way you will confuse most opponents, especially if there is some side spin left in the ball. You can also perform this shot with a side spin motion. Look for videos with Luka Mladenovic, he is very good at these shots.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

Funnily enough,now maybe one of the hardest opponents to play against is going to be lp players.

Well some anti like ABS2 are too difficult to remove because of the glue sheet who is wayyyy too adhesive...
But with DMS, it's very easy to remove an anti from the blade (you must glue it with the glue sheet otherwise, it's too hard to remove it without breaking it.)

You must use a putty knife, and must remove it from the blade with the glue sheet still glued to it, so you will put the putty knife between the blade and the glue sheet (NOT between the sponge and the glue sheet). The glue sheet protect the sponge from breaking apart. The DMS glue sheet doesn't have a too strong glue power so it's pretty easy to remove the anti from the blade. Here is a video showing you the process:
https://youtu.be/-cxdUWE1qM0

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Viscaria Super ZLC
FH - Tuttle G20 President
BH - Slick antispin

[/quote]Hey, do you use varnish for the blade on the offensive side?[/quote]I always seal my blade on both sides, but thicker on the BH side. Very thin on FH side. Most blades are wrecked after a few rubber changes unless you seal it.[/quote]

Doesnt´t Varnish make the blade faster? Tbh I think I want a slow b-hand side and a faster f-hand side on that blade?

No, good varnish doesn't change the properties of a blade. 2 thin layers is enough I believe.
You want a fast bh too. Nowadays, Glanti tend to be more and more slower. So you need a fast blade. Then if it's too fast, adapt the thickness of the Glanti sponge. Don't do the opposite.

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Setup 1
Blade - Gerry Viscaria Super ZLC
FH - Tuttle G20 President
BH - Slick antispin

Ok, ty. But it looks like I don´t need to do that. Because they struggel alot from Sydsport to deliver my blade so I decided to not order it. I got the rubbers Reflection 0,9 and Victas V Limber on max and I think I gonna use my first blade that I bought long time ago instead of my Dr:Barriacade Def. Its a Stiga Allround Overzise Blade.

https://revspin.net/blade/stiga-allround-oversize.html

What you guys think?

What you say about, this blade? https://revspin.net/blade/stiga-allround-oversize.html I got this blade home already and I got a reflection 0,9 and Victas Limber. It looks like you got alot of experience so your word means alot. All others to ofc. My Stiga Def Pro blade that I order where out of stock sadly and it looks like it takes ages atleast from Sydsport. https://www.sydsport.com/